On my tub I am running 39 teardrop tailites. The tailite running lite circuit is no problem. The signals and brake lites have me stumped. I am running a vega box and column and an old ford tube. I will be using a toggle switch or rodtronics switch for signals. My component panel has a connector to the brake lite switch. From the brake lite switch I am running to the brake lites. Where does the signal circuit come in here? What would interupt the brake lite on the side the signal is flashing? I don't have the wiring schematic from my component panel, so can't figure out how to wire in the signals unless they are separate units from the teardrops. Anyone have any idea what I need to do. I think number one would be get the paperwork for my component panel. Is there an easy way to do this and just use my teardrops. Nutz
This is just my guess, I've never messed with any wiring other than that on my Chrysler, so I could be wrong... Here's the way the turn signal setup on my car works. The turn signal switch just sends the current to the left light or the right light, it's fed by a single wire coming from the signal flasher (the other wire from the signal flasher goes to the ignition switch). According to the wiring diagram, there's a "front" side and a "back" side inside the turn signal switch. The "FRONT" wires are illustrated like this: The green wire is the left turn signal, the brown wire is the right turn signal, and the red wire is connected to the "X" on the flasher socket itself. All three of those wires are spliced together before they enter the turn signal switch, but logically they DON'T all go to the same terminal on the switch (I can't tell from the diagram). The "BACK" wires are illustrated like this: green is the left light, brown is the right light, and WHITE goes to one terminal on the stoplight switch. Again, all three wires are spliced together before they get to the turn signal switch. The other terminal on the stoplight switch goes to the headlight switch. I think the way it works is, when (for example) the left turn signal light/stop light is blinking, the right turn signal/stop light is just "on" because it isn't being interrupted by the turn signal flasher.
Uh, what he said. Its so late I cant think of my own name. Ill have to ponder this one at work...during lunch.
another way to split the brake and turn signal when not using a factory turn switch is to install another socket and bulb in each housing -one for stop one for turn-tail etc.
As 39 teardrops aren't known for being really brite, maybe I should use a separate lite, hidden, for turn signals. I am going to see if I can get the paperwork for the component panel. It has the flasher setup as part of it. Nutz
[ QUOTE ] another way to split the brake and turn signal when not using a factory turn switch is to install another socket and bulb in each housing -one for stop one for turn-tail etc. [/ QUOTE ] I did this on my 50 chevy pickup. Although I wish I would have just went with the seven wire turn signal switch that only requires the two regular bulbs in each tailight. Not much room to add anything in those lights. Save yourself a headache. Go with the seven wire aftermarket or even though I am not familiar with the rodtronics setup, I would think that too would only require the stock tailight setup without all the extra wiring.
The only problem with two bulbs in the same housing is that when you have your foot on the brakes the turn signal bulb is not really brite enough normaly to see. If you want to use something simple looking I'd recommend using a kit from Watson street works that allows you to use a small toggle switch for turn signals. I think they have one that times out in case you forget to shut it off and drive 400 miles with your blinker on. The wire from the brake light switch usually goes through the turn sigmal switch which is configured to turn off the brake light signal on one side to allow that correct rear filiment to flash when turning - it's a pretty complicated switch but Watson's uses relays and easy to read diafgrams to allow this to operate properly from a regular toggle switch. I think I have the schematic for this same circuitry if you want to try it yourself. Send me a PM if you'd like to try it. Watson's kit probably doesn't cost any more than a clamp on 7 wire signal kit or the individual components neede to build it. Good luck!
Thanks for the help guys. I have the paperwork for the component panel on the way and from what they said I need something to interupt the power from the brake lites so the signal will work. I ordered a clamp on old style chromed turn signal setup for the column, so I can go with the 39 tailites only. It is a 60's type solution on a 60's type rod. Nutz.
Fordnutz, they are correct. You need to interrupt the power from the brake light switch in order for this to work. Nearly all signal light kits require you to run the output from the brakelight switch to the signal light switch so that it can take care of interrupting the brakes appropriately. The output from the left and right rear signal is ran to the appropriate left or right housing. These left/right signal wires also activates your brakelights appropriately. You can create your own signal light switch using toggles and relays, but it is pretty complicated task. Hope this helps.