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Technical need ford flathead valve installation help/advice

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Beavis1313, May 25, 2017.

  1. Beavis1313
    Joined: Nov 22, 2016
    Posts: 12

    Beavis1313
    Member

    first off this is the first flathead i have messed with, it's a 1949 ford coupe with a flathead 8
    I have the valves all disassembled and out of the block.i have all new parts to go in valves, guides, springs, keepers ,ect. The book I have doesn't go into very much detail on the valves,it shows to assemble the valve parts and install them as a unit into the block.
    my concerns are how to get the valve guide down far enough to install the guide keeper clip once everything is put together as a unit. or should I just install the guides into the block and assemble the valves in the block, and where can i find ( buy, rent or borrow) the correct valve spring compressor to do so. my main issue is time i need to have the car running by the first of the month(june) so it can get some miles on it before my dad and I leave for the Power Tour
     
  2. seb fontana
    Joined: Sep 1, 2005
    Posts: 9,113

    seb fontana
    Member
    from ct

    Boy are you cutting it short! Install as a unit into block, there is a pry bar like tool for doing that; the same one that is used for taking them out..
     
  3. Mac VP
    Joined: May 13, 2014
    Posts: 503

    Mac VP
    Member

    This picture on our website shows the pickle bar tool which is used to install the new valve assemblies. You fit the forked end through the coil of the valve spring and catch the groove in the valve guide. Levering the bar upward pulls the guide and valve down far enough to slip the horseshoe clip into its own groove in the guide. With the clip in place, remove the pickle bar tool and the valve assembly is secured in the motor. BE SURE To CHECK that the clip is tight and doesn't wiggle or come right out.
    http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_valveremoval_tools-3.htm


    We stock the tool and it's available in our online store, but I somewhat doubt that you'd have it before next Tuesday at this point. Perhaps someone closer to you has one you could borrow. Good luck.
     
    Bandit Billy likes this.
  4. Flatheadjohn47
    Joined: Aug 18, 2012
    Posts: 1,378

    Flatheadjohn47
    Member
    from Lewes, DE

    With the proper "fork" tool,grab the valve guide complete with the spring,valve, and proper retainers to hold everything in place and using plenty of lube on the valve guide where it fits in the block,pry upward on the fork tool pulling the valve guide down low enough to insert the horseshoe shaped keeper to hold the completed valve guide in its final resting place.After the horseshoe retainer is installed, pry the valve guide upward to seat the horseshoe in the recessed area and the horseshoe should all but disappear flush with the block and all that is visible is the small tab on the horseshoe that is visible after the pry bar is removed.NUF SED so Flatheads Forever!
     
  5. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 13,256

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Just be glad that you have stock size springs to get installed in short order.
    Shouldn't take much to fab up a fork pry bar to get the job done.
     
  6. think I bought Speedways or Mac's bar for the keeper.....haven't broke it yet
     
  7. Andy
    Joined: Nov 17, 2002
    Posts: 5,351

    Andy
    Member

    I used a standard C type spring compressor. I put the lifter, valve, spring, retainer, and guide in the hole. Put in the clip with the guide shoved down. Grab the retainer with the clamp, compress the spring and put in the keepers.
     
  8. Beavis1313
    Joined: Nov 22, 2016
    Posts: 12

    Beavis1313
    Member

    thank you for all the advice
     
  9. Ralphies54
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 791

    Ralphies54
    Member

    Have you checked clearances or are you using adjustable tappets?
     
  10. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    Two things...bar is easiest/best but with the straight stem valves you can assemble in the block...it's a little fidgety and you must have a towel in there in case you drop the keepers. You'd drive the guides and their rubbers down, put on the retainers, and tap them back up or pull up with a quarter inch bolt. I'd buy or borrow a bar.
     
    Mr48chev likes this.
  11. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 35,605

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'm going to assume that you have adjustable lifters and can adjust the valves after everything is installed. Otherwise you have to set the valve clearance by grinding the tip of the valve in a valve grinder.
     
    Ralphies54 likes this.
  12. Beavis1313
    Joined: Nov 22, 2016
    Posts: 12

    Beavis1313
    Member

    it already had adjustable lifters, I decided to try make my own bar from a 36" pry bar and a 1/8" body shim, I got it all welded up,but all my grinding wheels seem to have grown legs. I will buy some in the morning ands see how my homemade tool works
    on a different flathead note
    What is the best place for the water temp. probe/sensor, the heads or water pump?
    thanks again for all the help eveyone
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2017
    saltflats likes this.
  13. AngleDrive
    Joined: Mar 9, 2006
    Posts: 1,163

    AngleDrive
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Florida

    Heads give the best temp reading
     

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