I've been looking for some professional help lately but can't seem to get anyone over here to give me advice. Here are some pics of the mock-up. I have the body channeled over the frame 5". I think this one is going to ride a little high. Not goin' for the ground crawler look. Maybe the next one. I'm open to suggestions but I think this one is going to evolve. The pink stuff in the pick is a piece of foam representing how I plan to chop the frame and make the kickup. Now for the question. Seeing that I'm on my own with this project I would like to weld it all myself however I only have a Lincoln 135 - 110v welder with gas. If I use a lot of heat and a lot of gusset plates can this frame be boxed and welded with this or should I just tack everything real good and find a 220v? Easier said than done.
A stick welder oughta work just fine, but you will probably need one bigger than the one you've got. I've got an old Lincoln 220v (don't remember the number) and I've welded alot of similar stuff with it. You've got to get good penetration, that's the key. Yeah, I'm still talking about welding ! I don't think your 110v will do it. JayD
I'm not entirely familiar with the Lincoln sp135 - but I assume it is the equivalent to my Miller Sidekick (also 110v). FWIW I welded a Camaro Subframe into my 1937 chevy truck with my Miller and it's held up for many years - no signs of any problems. The biggest mistake I see with most MIG welders (operators) is the failure to properly CLEAN the metal prior to welding. The METAL NEEDS to be absoultely CLEAN if you're gonna expect MAXIMUM performance/penetration!!! (it ain't like stick welding with 6011) Another thing to remember is that you MUST look at the bead and let it TELL YOU how you are doing - when in doubt weld a test strip and section it to see your penetration. Remember the biggest problem with MIG is that it can produce BEAUTIFUL looking welds that in reality have no integrity. Beads should look "washed in" (on the edges). Pushing the limits of your welder can be minimized by beveling your joints where applicable and WHATEVER you do DON'T grind those welds!!!!!! If they're embarassing - grind them out and do them over. But before you go down that road - practice a bunch on some scrap and you'll avoid all that hoopla. You can also place multiple passes where needed. Another thing to consider is to add "splice plates" to your butt joints - basically an external plate used to reinforce a butt welded seam by overlapping is - commonly look like little welded on trianlges. Look at some roundy round guys stuff they are usually all over those chassis'. Last don't be afraid to "over" engineer it!!! I have been accused of this more than once - a few times by guys who's stuff later BROKE and nearly hurt someone!!!! Nothing wrong with adding several internal gussets to minimize the asthetic impact!!! Bottom line - the machine is likely up to the task - the question is - are you!! Not trying to be a wise ass - just trying for a little perspective. Just thinking out loud.... Good Luck!!!!
you'll be ok if you can weld,my buddy in the club has built 3 cars with that welder..just try not to use a long extension cord,or any.Look on the door that flips up and there should be a chart with metal thickness,match it up but i always go a little hotter.....that welder will easily weld 1/4" which is thicker than a frame,anything thicker it takes a second pass...
Hey, Hemirams advice was dead on.I'd suggest you pratice on like & kind thicknesses of metal, the same as the frame you're going ta weld on with test coupons. In the end ya may be better off tackin' everything together and finding bigger guns ta do the job. A frame that's margin- ally welded ain't no frame at all.
I hear ya. I'm a new welder so I'm not completly sure of my welding. I could hit the but weld from the back side also before I box the rear. I could also get a bunch of splice plates waterjet cut to look a little more interesting than diamonds. I'm also planning on a complete roll cage inside the body since my accident. This should add a little stiffnes to the frame. Is this worse for the welds in the rear kickup in the way of cracking? Thanks for the replys.
The first time i ever welded was when i built my 38' ford truck that ended up at Billy Lanes shop,i started with the body and not so critical areas got a little confident,hit some spots on the frame, than had my buddy who welds for a living come over and check...you can tell a good weld when the back side of the metal either gets red and also is discolored when it cools...Looking at your pics I would pie cut the top of the frame where the kick starts,and the bottom of the frame to straighten it back out.That way your not completely cutting the frame off...then box it in..If you want to add gussets i would put them inside the frame before you box it..Frame just aint purdy with gussets all over.....I would tack the whole thing together and have a welder buddy come by before you go to town...ok back to the garage
Slamchop, I would like for it to be that easy but you can see that I want to take out more of the frame than that. I would like to use as much of the natural curve as possible. I think this is a chevy truck frame. I'm thinking of using 1/4 elliptic springs in the rear so I will have a bit more steel welded to the frame near the butt weld. Not sure on the same up front or running parallel leafs with the axle on top. Maybe I'm trying to make it too short. Is about 96" too short?
I'm sure given care (bevel all welded joints) and preperation, clean the metal, that if you can lay down a decent bead and follow the advice of the other previous posts, you should do fine. If your questioning your welding ability or the machine's capabilities I can offer one more suggestion, PREHEAT your joints before welding. This not only allows a smaller machine to weld thicker materials it will also allow your weld to flow better and give you less spatter. I prefer tig welding to all other types of welding but I have a friend who could stick weld bear shit together so the type of weld is of lesser importance than the quality of the weld itself. Take your time and do it correctly, yourself. There's no better of a learning experience especially if you have a friend whose a welder that can oversee what your doing, over a couple of free beers naturally. Good luck and have at it!!!!
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