Technical need help diagnosing my electrical woes on a new wiring job

I was going to say before I read your post, that I like these switches IF you have no room for a foot switch or a dash switch for high beams. I was also going to suggest that he wire it so low beam is all the way out and high beam is one in.

 

I use the headlight switch by NAPA Echlin HL6554.
I think it is mid 50's Chevrolet.
I'm sorry I don't know the socket part number.
Here are wiring instructions.

 

The headlights looks like seal beams?
Are they incandescent or halogen?
What would be the plan for high/low beam switch, if you use a more common headlight switch?

 

To me this switch shown
""Parking lamps "" should be for the cowl lights Only !! (your not using )
On only when in first first spot from off, then ""Off"" after .

Running lights ( Rear) "" On"" In All 3 position from Off,
Powered / power from the terminal marked Instrument lights.

No turn signals are wired with this switch.
If you think switch is compromised /shorting out , pop it open take a look.

A few other options..

 

I do LIKE that wiring diagram!! Very easy to understand.
May I ask where it came from?

I know Crazy Steve does not care for relays. I like them. They sure take a load of the switch, allowing the switch to live longer.

Ben

 

I have been looking into the electronic units - thanks.
A 194 has more resistance than an 1154/7 - will report back when I get it mocked up

 

Yes it does, and that's the problem. A 194 is only 5 watts, or less than 20% of the load of a 1157. You can buy a 6.1 Ohm lamp emulator for a 1157 so the flasher will work but they're a bit bulky and can put out a fair amount of heat. You only need one and would wire it in series between the flasher and the turn switch. Don't be confused by the difference between the 'cold' resistance reading on the lamp and the emulator resistance spec, at operating temp the lamp resistance goes up sharply.

These emulators are commonly used on motorcycles when using LEDs as many have proprietary electronic flashers that will only operate into a specific load. An electronic flasher will be an easier 'fix' for you.

 

In pass I have used some Pre wired kits,
Did not like , Wires on some to small .
I have had all saved for some time, Honestly I cannot remember, the wiring with relays showing Dash maybe here off HAMB,
The GM plug is when I did a 54 chevy & a Model A with pre 68 column,s & used like 84ish G -10 headlight switch , From what I remember different , there was a pin missing on wiring harness I had to add,,
(parking light wiring ) It just what I had in my stock pile of parts.

The first pic showing Simple wiring I think from a boating site,
But I have used this Wiring many times
Hiding switches under dash on 32s
I only use the Hopkins box because I have Led rear brake lights, because So bright Day/Night & like 30 bubs,
In Front I have used 194 or other & hid in Reflector different then one's that are sold with turn/running,
Blank reflectors, then I modify.
There are some super bright amber/ yellow leds as small as a pencil eraser,

I also use 60-80 amp Relays when needed , Big spades relays for Freightliner/International trucks

 

I just don't like using them where they're not needed. They add complexity where it's not needed. If you're using a quality switch rated for the load, it will last just as long whether a relay is used or not. Too many times they're used to 'band-aid' shortcomings in the basic harness design.

Remember, every connection and set of contacts are potential failure points. The fewer you have, the more reliable your harness will be.

 

Do you have the correct bulbs in the tail lights? Single contact bulb in a single contact socket or a double in a double?

 

Double in a double...the tail light and brake lights work great

 

Installed a new Painless headlight switch...fixed all those problems. Now on to the turn signals and it's done.