Hi, I've got a 64' Impala 283 which I just swapped carbs on (still stock Rochester 2CV 2bbl) and I need the piece that connects the fuel bowl to the inlet of the carburetor. If anyone knows where to look or can link me to a website that would be fantastic! I've gone around town and no shop can help me [emoji53] I guess it's "too old" Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You'd need male pipe thread and male inverted flare, but the problem will be when you ever take it apart, the filter won't end up in the same position.....because the pipe thread will change a bit each time it is retightened. You are using two filters "at the carb" for what reason? The cartridge in that carb is fine by itself, and some people use another filter before the pump. .
I thought about that, but by the time you leave enough tubing to make 2 flared ends with nuts, plus the length of the adapter, the filter will be out too far and be shetchy? You'd almost need a bracket to support the weight of the glass bowl filter.
Simpler fix is get rid of the glass bowl filter. The inlet fitting on the carb should have either a paper cartridge filter or a molded sintered bronze element inside, millions of them out there and they do the job.
yeah, you would probably have to put a clamp/support on the other end of the filter for piece of mind.
When you say 2CV do you mean 2GC? Why not just put in a new filter in the carb and delete the glass bowl?
Yeah the whole carb + the bronze filter in it is new so you think the best thing to do is just remove the glass bowl? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Yeah I have an inline filter before the pump, the glass bowl and the bronze element. You think it's best to just remove the bowl and attach the line straight to the carb? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Usually the glass bowl is attached directly to the carb w/ male to male fittings Take the bowl and inlet to either Pep Boys, or a place like this http://www.raindusa.com They should be able to set you up with a combo that works.
A definite yes. It will be micky mouse with that type carb inlet. Your pic tells the real story. That 2G is the one that has pipe thread inlet, without any internal filter. The OP has the later carb top with the filter and inverted flare fitting. a good example of the different inlets is Chevy tri-power in 58 was front inlet no internal filter, but in 59 Chevy switched to the side inlet tripower with internal filters. The early one used a remote filter, the later did not. You can't compare the two. .
This might seem pretty dumb but, how should I go about removing the bowl? Should I twist on the bowl, the nut, the nut by the fuel line? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
It's not dumb at all. We were not born knowing how to do that. Use a flare wrench if you have one on the line nut, then hold that brass fitting from moving, while unscrewing the steel nut on the line itself. It will take a bit of pressure to start, but then it will spin right off by hand
Unhook the it from between the filter adapter and the fuel line nut. Wrench on both fittings, then the fuel line should screw into the carb itself.
Yes, now that I look at the OP's carb and the other one I can see that. If the OP wants to keep the glass filter can't he either hard plumb it with adapters to the IF fitting on the carb, or the fuel pump outlet? My car was set up withe the glass bowl on the outlet of the fuel pump when I got it. (The pic I posted isn't my car, I have a 4gc) I've found that it helps to see the gas when troubleshooting a lot of problems.
What do you mean by hard plumbing? I think the fitting on the fuel bowl is a 7/16 and I'm not sure about the one on the carb but it's definitely bigger. Also, what kind of problems would happen where a fuel bowl can help troubleshoot them? Thanks for the help! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
By "hard plumbing" I really just mean attaching the glass filter directly to either the carb or fuel pump with a fitting(s), then fabricating a hard line to finish it off. This would be rigid and not require you to fab a bracket. I went to a place here in Boston that specializes in hydraulic fittings, digging through their drawers they set me up with various adapters that made the transition from unlike female carb fittings. This is their online store http://www.raindusa.com I don't know about you, but as I'm working on my car it often misbehaves, and the first thing I look at is that bowl to make sure it's getting fuel passed the pump, see if there's any crud in there, Then I check floats, adjust this and that, check spark...blah, blah Cars I've had without the bowl, I couldn't really see that the fuel was traveling well, if a filter was clogged with crap, etc. Some people may think it's Mickey Mouse but I like the glass bowl, I think it's worth having. Also, I'm not an expert, just a hack really, so I improvise as I go. A lot of other guys here could probably give better advice. I like Rochester carbs and spend a lot of time working on them. If you zoom in on this pic, you will see the glass bowl attached to the fuel pump outlet, no bracket. There's probably a hundred things wrong with how I set this up but that bowl works perfectly.
I think for now I'm just going to delete the bowl just so I can hopefully get it running again and maybe look for a fitting for it later. Now, how to get it off... Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thanks I got it off and got the car running but i can't get it to idle right. I'm pretty sure it has to do with this retention part on the carb but I just can't figure it out. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If you mean the rubber plug thing up top? That is just a fuel bowl vent. IDLE; -choke needs to be off/(flap open all the way) and motor warmed up -every vacuum line on the carb and intake manifold needs looking at for leaks, or if switching a carb, is there a port or stem sticking out of the carb that needs a hose, or needs plugging? -vacuum leaks make hissing sound. -two idle mixture screws are at the lowest part of carb. They are set right, if when you turn them out 1/2 turn more, nothing much happens, but turning it in a 1/2 turn more, makes it lose idle speed or start shaking. -timing must be correct -if you get no response at all from those two screws at a normal idle speed...report back with that.
Never mind, I fixed everything and it runs great now, thanks to all who chipped in! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I've fixed everything. I figured out I just needed to tighten the screw with the spring on it ( on the right side in the picture ) and that adjusted the throttle to where it would hold an idle when I go to start the car. Now it's running great and finally back on the lead after 3 weeks of sitting. Thanks again to everyone that pitched in, you guys saved my ass [emoji28][emoji16][emoji16] Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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