Hiya folks, Need help on what is the best/easiest way to repaint a little section. I will try and explain what i mean. Taildraggin sprayed the cab with paint and then put the laquer on it. We then found a nice big run from the laquer so he flattened it back and sprayed laquer over the top again and this happened.
I know one way is strip all of the cab again but don't really want to do that and if he try's to blend it in this happens. Really need help on this as Taildraggin is really pissed off and can only see that he's going to have to strip the whole cab or leave it as it is and i don't to leave it as it is . Thank folks Daisyduke
If it is really lacquer paint, there may be a language barrier--(lorrie-truck--bonnet-hood), the lacquer thinner used for the repair is too slow evaporating (high gloss thinner) and is soaking into the paint and causing the wrinkles/lifting. You need to let it dry/cure with some heat lamps (at least 30 inches away from the panel) to get the solvents out. I realize that you are in a humid region of the earth and need to use slower solvents to keep the lacquer from "blushing" (dull contion caused by the paint film evaporating too fast and trapping moisture in the air in the paint film). Use faster solvents or nonpenetrating repair solvents when you try to repair this and leave plenty of time between coats (patience). If a slight blush occurs, it can probably be rubbed out (buffed with a polishing pad and compound) after it dries. This advice is for lacquer type paints--just making sure that you are referring to lacquer as a type of paint and not the local slang for any clear coating. overspray
Overspray, the paint systems is base coat and clear. (confusing with the language barrier ) The problem is when you put base coat over clear the clear reacts. Daisyduke
looks like a lacquer was mixed with an enamal and then cleared .. can you feel the wrinkles or they under the clear?
That's true DrJ, But then the question would be what colour? Purple like the engine or a darker pink? Daisyduke
Geez--what time is it over there?? Well it looks like you probably aren't using lacquer type paint. New style base-coat/clear-coat paints since about the early 1990's are basically a fast drying base coat with an agressive solvent base (like a lacquer solvent) and an enamel or urethane type clear. The clearcoat should have a catalyst or hardner added to it which takes a few days to fully cure or harden at temperatures above 70 degrees F. Even when cured it can be sensitive to strong solvents in the basecoat color. When you sand the clearcoat and leave exposed edges and very thin films left over the base, it reacts with the basecoat solvent or thinner like putting lacquer paint over enamel. Without knowing exactly which system you have (and they could be slightly different than the same or similar systems marketed in the States) I could only generalize on how to repair the spots. You are probably going to have to check with someone local and very familiar with your paint system to help with repair technique. A big part of it, though, is the solvent used in the repair materials and how much is applied. Too much of a slower evaporating solvent applied will give the same results you have now. Post a picture of the paint, color, clear, hardner and solvent cans. This may help identify the problem better. Also someone else may be more familiar with the products and techniques of application. I'll be gone to work for about 36 hours, but I'll check back. overspray
Overspray your a gem. It's just after 6 in the evening over here and it's a bank holiday so had an extra day to work on truck. Here's some photo's of the paint. The basecoat is a product called Octobase (somewhere along the line the parent company do House of Colors?)
This is a picture of the clear coat It's called Diamond Glass 2K hs clearcoat CPL500 & 2K hs hardener. I hope this helps. I knew that if i asked you lot you'd be able to help, thanks again. Daisyduke
I should not try to give advice on this, but what he heck. Are you sure that you are not mixing differnt products here? Have you waxed/polished tha paint? (Silicone?) To me it looks that you need to scuff down the paint, respray it with some kind of sealer to prevent the bottom paint to come thru. And then repaint with the basecoat clearcote, again.
if you sprayed color of clear, the clear wasnt totally "flashed" yet and thats probably what happend. This happend to me on a motorcycle i was painting once. Nate
[ QUOTE ] looks like a lacquer was mixed with an enamal and then cleared .. can you feel the wrinkles or they under the clear? [/ QUOTE ] That happened to my buddy, when I first the wrinkles that's what crossed the mind! I think you have to take it all down by the looks of it.
Read what overspray wrote again! The clear, and the base are NOT the same kind of paint. The clear has no problem going over the base, but to put base back over clear can be a problem. The stong solvent in the base will attack and wrinkle the clear, if it is not fully cured. OR it may do it, even if the clear is cured, if you use too slow a reducer, or paint it when it is too cold. In either case, you want the base to be able to quickly "flash" or dry, when re-shooting it over clear. AND be sure that the clear is fully cured. Again, temperature, and reducer makde a difference in how quickly the clear cures. Might be hours, but it may be days! You'll have to sand out all the wrinkled areas 'til smooth. I would wait a day or 2 for the sanded areas to 'dry' or outgas some more. You may want to look into a clear sealer before applying more base coat to cover the sanded areas. Not 100% necessary, though. Then apply base, using the correct reducer for the temperature you are spraying at. a heat lamp will help to evaporate the solvents in the basecoat, but don't get it TOO hot, either! when the base has flashed off, then put the clear on. If the clear takes a reducer, use the correct one. Use a fast, or repair hardener, if you have a choice, in the clear. Put on medium coats first, instead of full wet ones. Maybe a wet on for the final coat. Use the heat lamp to help cure the clear, as well, if available.
Thanks for the help guys. The Clear don't like base coat being put over it. I am going to contact the supplier to see what they recomend.
If you'll let it cure a couple of days,then sand the entire panel as if there wasn't any wrinkled places in it.LIGHTLY dust some base over the wrinkled areasuntil they are covered completely up.Wait until the base is completely flashed off until you apply each coat of the base.It will likely take several coats of base to cover it.Then clearcoat as you normally would.
What temperature are you spraying /curing in?The ambient is only in the 50`s to low 60`s at the moment at best and you need heat for the paint to cure properly.If the paint you are using is pearl or metalic, I would flat it back to the edge of the relevant panel or swage line and mask it off and blow the whole panel in again as it`s hard to match just a spot area.
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