hey all, the 34 is coming along nicely, will post better shots of all the work when i get time, I dont have the body here ( steel roadster) and am about to build engine and gearbox mounts..but i have no real references to determine engine position. obviously i want it in basically the stock position. does where i have it now look right? further back maybe? was hoping someone would have photos from similar angles for me to compare. will be using truck type pumps on an 8ba..that motor and pumps are just a mock up, but mount position is the same. how far above the xmember are the pump outlets on a stock car? any info that anyone has will help me piece this little puzzle together..thanks!!
I think you want to move it back a bit more. The truck pumps stick out 5" from the mounting surface and the crank pully sticks out about 4" from the timing cover. Are you planning on running a stock fan or electric? My engine mount bolts are 5" back from the crossmember on center and I'm running an electric fan. I don't think there was enough room for the mechanical one. Flatman
borrow a cowl with a firewall and bolt it to your frame. That will give you a good reference to determine the stock position of the motor. Looks like a good project.
thanks flatman, there isnt a radiator yet, i assume the bottom tank is pretty much centered over the radiator mount holes? my main concern is going back too far and interfering with the firewall. so 5" back from centerline of xmember left you a bit tight still?
You just need enough room to swap the belt Are you running a hood? I built my own firewall and am not using a hood. I actually had to extend my cowl up to the engine (a Bantam coupe is really short!) Space at the back was not a problem for me. Flatman
yeh drop one over from the pile out the back peddro.... actually, throw a 32 firewall in too..need one for the truck actually i think im going to leave about an inch in front of the pulley.. anyone know where the crank centreline should be in relation to the frame/xmember? currently i have it sitting about 1/2" below the top of the rails,viewed from the side.sound about right?
On a 34 the motor is closer to the front crossmember then a 32. The tabs out front of the crossmember are for the radiator. I built a frame with a 34 center x-member and stock unsplit 34 wishbone. Can take a tape to it, if you slide the motor back it won't fit the firewall.
ah yes i guess with a single pulley and water pumps in the heads the motor (original 34 type flatty) can sit closer to the crossmember than an 8BA can. anyone got photos of a later flatty sitting in a 34? ill have a look thru the tech..maybe TUCKs 34? thanks eric..some measurements would be great..even bellhousing face to a reference on the center X, like the dimpled holes in the top?
My 34 has a later 59AB in it, its a real tight squeeze, heres some Pics I just took, Don't say I never gave ya nothin" . Sorry its all grody lookin', I haven't been workin' on it in awhile. the measurements will have to wait till tommorrow. On a side note, this swap was done in the 60's by a friend of mine and is still unchanged, right down to the crappy engine mount spacers. In order to squeze it in front of the 39 gearbox, the front crank pulley was machined off, and the generator mounted fan was used. ENGINE MOUNTS IN RELATION TO RADIATOR ON CROSSMEMBER A CLOSER LOOK ENGINE MOUNT SPACER ENGINE IN RELATION TO RADIATOR WITH FAN Hope those help Drew
hey drew thats awesome, thanks heaps for the photos! im running a 5speed Toyota box in this (sorry!) so gearbox position isnt a limiting factor.. damn that is tight at the front, theres no way a twin belt pulley would fit in there! how tight are you at the back of the engine to firewall? that would give me enough info to go on i think. the radiator hoses look about 3/4" above the xmember..is that about right?
Do you need a 2 belt pulley? If not, lop off the front groove in a lathe. That'll save at least 1/2".
not sure yet on the pulley.. will work that out tomorrow. its a shit trying to build a chassis without the engine or body...
I would not continue positioning the flathead until you have a radiator and grille on that frame. Its just too hard to try to get it right when building the engine mounts with the engine clearing the firewall and radiator and postioning the tranny mounts and later the rear axle. The front mount height should approximately be about 1/2" above the frame surface. the best way to figure this is to be sure the lower pump ports are exactly level with the radiator lower outlets. Otherwise its just too hard to install those hoses. Of course, the stromberg and holley carbs should be setting level although I have seen them a few degrees off with no issues.
The stock position allowed for a hand crank to access the crank just above the front spring through the guide ring that is visible in Gasserfreak's first pic. It is going to be close enough that you really do need to locate the body/firewall, engine and radiator at the same time, to insure it has adequate clearance at both ends.
yep, i guess you are right, i really need the body and radiator to get this right. and being a customers car im not really interested in doing it twice. the radiator will be custom made..so that gives me some fudge at the front i guess, the thing is running hoodless .
Those "crappy engine mount spacers" are actually a cool old hot rod trick. They are factory motor mount brackets from a '49-'50 Merc that the hot rodders decided they could use to put a later flathead in the '33-'34 Fords instead of buying the spacers offered by the factory. They are functional and vintage parts, not that easy to find. Enjoy them.
Heres the other pics you asked about. It's pretty tight againt the firewall, with just enough room the get the oil filler cap on(not an issue with an 8BA). The vertical surface of the block just below the head is right about and inch and a half from the lip at the bottom of the firewall, I had to use a straight edge becase the block sits below the actual firewall, the toeboard slants back. Anyway here are the pics. Hope this helps, let me know if theres anything else. Drew
sheeit ......i really dont have a lot to play with there huh? well i guess the body will have to come over to the shop then. thanks again gasser freak!! really nice of you to help me out. that looks like a cool old rod..have you shown pics of it before?
Yeah, Here's the link to when I brought it home. Other than some work on the doors, it still hasen't changed much. But it will. Drew http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123159