need help removing a lug nut with a wheel lock

If you are going to throw them away anyway, just take a die grinder or small cut-off wheel and put a notch in one side. Then take the hammer and chisel and tap it to loosen it.

When I wanted to keep them, I find a twelve point socket that would be sacrificed. Then taking a torch and heating the socket end, and drive the heated end into the end of the lock to duplicate the pattern.

 

Yup! Fresno PD told me that's all there is to these guys stealing rims... no special tools needed. They just roll the damn car around w/ only the locks holding the rims- comes right off.

 

Maybe this would get it?

http://www.amazon.com/Gator-Grip-Universal-Socket-ETC-120/dp/B000N8NJIE

I can see the pins filling the area you need filled if it will fit around it.

 

a tire shop I used to due debt collecting for, used these all the time, for lock removal.

 

there are many kits on the market to remove locking lug nuts now just try giving your local auto parts store a call.

 

A [metal cutting] drill bit the same size as the lug bolt. Drill right down the center, then smack it with a hammer.

 

At first glance you want to scan over this idea since there are so many other ideas. But this Idea really makes sense and anyone can do it.
Reminds me of how to take a flat screwdriver to remove a nut if you have a "too large" open end wrench. Just fill the gap on the wrench with the blade of the screwdriver. Works like a charm.

 

Junkyard tech.....hammer and socket. I've used this many times at Pull a Part.

 

I've used the screwdriver and wrench trick before on nuts that were rounded off,worked well.

 

This works every time. Wheel locks are made of soft steel, and because of the adaptor key, their never really on that tight. Just bang on a close fitting Impact socket, and twist them off.

 

Some idiot cut his wheel apart to get a lugnut off a volkswagon. It was a Epic fail thread that I ran across.

 

I have used the socket method as well for many years,what I do is take a big hammer
and smack the head of the nut into the rim and then I smack a socket on and use an impact gun

 

I've never had the hammered-on impact socket method fail me. Unless you have one of those old cheesy locks that use an actual "house" key. Those I just air-chiseled the shell off and then use a regular socket.

Bob

 

Okay, I had to go look that thread up and read it... wow! It's no "Charlie Wenzel" thread, but it's pretty awesome in its own right... the dude trying to justify why he did it-priceless

 

I've welded a regular nut to a locking nut before, but after seeing this I don't think I'll do that again.

 

yeah..took it to a wheel shop $20 and they are off. It took them 45 minutes with there special wheel lock remover fancy thing so I dont feel too bad. I couldnt open up that youtube video with the welding on a nut but I tried that and it didnt work. The wheel shop also noticed I tried that and they said it never works. There is to much chrome in those locking lugs to get a good enough weld that wont crack with an impact. Cheers!

 

AAA members. When I drove tow truck I used to tell people wheel locks only prevent you from changing your tires when you have a flat.

I have that set and they are great. Definitely a worthwhile investment.

 

Wheels locks are the one of the worst parts of driving a wrecker. I've used rocks, sockets, wrenches, rolling the car back and forth... you name it. The method I've found to work best was to load the car up on the deck and drop it off at a tire shop and let them worry about it.

 

I got mine at Discount Tire. I asked how much, and the guy said never mind, just remember us when you need more tires.

 

Yep, except the flat always seemed to be on one of the drive wheels, tow dollies **** and I didnt drive a flatbed.

 

I'm not sure that the scenario depicted in the video is quite the same as welding a nut to a locking lug. They were welding near the bead, and for more than 2 minutes. Plus the wheel in the picture was not mounted to a vehicle. In the case of a stuck lug where the wheel is mounted (which would always be the case), there is a wheel/axle hub, plus a brake drum/rotor which means a lot more metal to dissipate whatever heat is generated by welding.

 

Bought a car in the 70's when I was young that had some really nice wheels, but didn't get the key to the locks. Since they were only on the front wheels and I didn't want to **** up the wheels, I popped the dust caps, took off the spindle nuts and pulled the front wheels/drums as one unit. Drilled out the lug bolts from behind and pressed in new lug bolts. Done deal.

 

This doesn't sound like it would work with your situation but, in my misspent youth, I've seen a lot of locks beaten by this method. Take the biggest star wrench you can find and slip the closest fitting end over the lock. Put straight up as hard as you can while turning the wrench. Believe or not it works more often than you would think.