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Technical Need help! Shoebox lower control Arm hits wheel with lowered spindles

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Postman, Oct 5, 2015.

  1. Postman
    Joined: Dec 9, 2010
    Posts: 21

    Postman
    Member
    from Germany

    Hello all,

    I have a very big problem with the lowered spindles, I installed in my 1950 Shoebox Coupe.
    If it’s important: it was a 6 Cylinder Car. Now it’s got a 302 Ford with C4.
    The spindles are Jamco.
    I’ve got 15 x 5 inch Ford steel wheels on the car. Took them from a 1966 Galaxy.

    The space between the lower control arm / A-Arm and the inner rim is so close, that the lower A-Arm end is touching the rim, when I drive a curve.
    I realized it very fast, because after the very first drive with the car, the lower A-Arm shaved off all the balance weights from the rim. You can’t imagine that sound, when they bombed into the inner fender.
    After checking that, I found the scratches inside the rims, on the fresh powder coated wheels.

    Have I done something wrong by installation?? Parts were lying around for over 2 years, before assembling.
    Is this a thing that happened only to me? Or is here anybody, who had the same problem?

    It would be nice, if you could check the pics, perhaps to see, what’s wrong, or what I can do.

    Thank you

    [​IMG][/URL
    ]


    [​IMG][/URL
    ]
     
  2. m.kozlowski
    Joined: Nov 2, 2011
    Posts: 141

    m.kozlowski
    Member

    Seems like you need rims with different ET.
     
  3. Install a 1/4" spacer between the wheel and the drum. Or get wheels with less backspacing.
     
    Hnstray likes this.
  4. Postman
    Joined: Dec 9, 2010
    Posts: 21

    Postman
    Member
    from Germany

    But is it normal, that the lower arm is so close to the wheel???
    I tried 3 pairs of wheels. All steel wheels, original Ford, from the 50s and 60s. i never thought, they could be wrong, for a lowered Shoebox.
     
  5. Postman
    Joined: Dec 9, 2010
    Posts: 21

    Postman
    Member
    from Germany

    [​IMG]

    looks like a lot of other Shoeboxes, when it comes to wheels and tires. so I never thought of this trouble.
     
    flatheadpete likes this.
  6. No, it's not 'normal', but many times when you change one component you find that something else now doesn't fit. I had exactly the same problem on a car I owned (with aftermarket control arms), spacers fixed it.

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cal-202373/overview/
     
  7. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    The problem with your reasoning is, all the wheels were designed by Ford to work on their UNALTERED vehicles.

    As Crazy Steve recommends, a shallow wheel spacer would be the easiest and least expensive fix. It won't take much change to gain the clearance you need.

    16" wheels (late Crown Vic, for example) would also do it, but that means spending a lot of dough.

    Ray
     
  8. Postman
    Joined: Dec 9, 2010
    Posts: 21

    Postman
    Member
    from Germany

    I tried spacer, but the wheel bolts are to short and very firmly connected to the drum. I was afraid, to destroi the drum. So I realy wanted to know, how this looks on other Shoeboxes.
    I still own the original 16# wheels, but I realy wanted him on 15#. And now, that I bought a brand new Set of the 15# tires.....

    Do you have a tip for changing the bolts, without bending the drums?
     
  9. Changing wheel studs on drums is normally done on a press with a support under the flange to the press table. Never beat them out!
    The Wizzard
     
  10. Yep, find somebody with a press and install longer studs.
     
  11. Postman
    Joined: Dec 9, 2010
    Posts: 21

    Postman
    Member
    from Germany

    I tried before, with a little heat, with no results.
    I will try again with a press.
    But i still would love to see other Shoeboxes that have the lowered spindles installed.
    if anyone is having a pic, please show me. :))
    Thank you, for the fast answers. I'm a little lucky, that it seems not to be my fault!
     
  12. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,855

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    I don't know much about dropped spindles, but yours seem to have a wicked bend in them that sucks the wheel inboard. They look a lot different from others I've seen.

    You could shave the outer edges of the LCA and gain some space.
     
  13. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 10,997

    BJR
    Member

    Are you sure you have the dropped spindles on the correct side? Does it aline correctly?
     
  14. Grease fittings go to the front. Switch sides and you can't get to the lower fitting due to steering arm. I have the same issue on my 57 Ford with there spindles. It's just a wheel thing. Make a different choice.
    The Wizzard
     
  15. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 33,507

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

    have you contacted JAMCO for info as what to do? spacer/new studs sounds like relative easy resolve. if you do have studs replaced be sure to replace wheel bearings - sometimes the heat caused in removal of studs will damage bearing race.
     
  16. ^^^ yep
    Another option is stick on weights like they use on aluminum wheels. But if it were me I would use steve's advice on this one.
     
  17. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,970

    Finnrodder
    Member
    from Finland

    I think its because of your wheels doesnt have correct ET.The current lowering kit on my car is 2 squaretubes bolted on lower A-arms.Our vehicle inspectors love things like that...
    Anyway,i have drop uprights and unmolested A-arms waiting for assembly.So,dont care about the lowering method in this pic,but compare the wheel ET's.That how it looks like with OEM shoebox wheel:

    [​IMG]

    And that was with 15" rim,i know that there was 16" wheels on shoeboxes too.But if i remember right they were only in 1949 and models with 6 cylinder engines..
     
  18. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 15,013

    Budget36
    Member

    It looks like your dropped spindles are narrower than the spindles in the last pic...i/e from the pics, appears that the KP boss in the dropped spindle is over the top of the lower control arm, on the next spindle pic by Finnrodder, it is clearly off of/away from, the control arm.
     
  19. Postman
    Joined: Dec 9, 2010
    Posts: 21

    Postman
    Member
    from Germany

    Thank's for the pic.
    I Think Pist-n-broke is wright. If I change the sides, you can't reach the grease fittings.
    My 1950 was a 6 Cylinder car with 16# wheels. I will try some different wheel stuff soon. At the moment the car is gone for upholstery.
     
  20. Some food for thought. I was looking for one to post a photo of for ya but no luck. I'll try to describe it. Newer custom wheels are using a different style lug nut. If you can get by with a 1/4" or so spacer they just might do the job without changing studs. What I'm talking about is instead of the old style long strait shank nuts and compression washers they have gone to a tapper seat like our standard steel nuts but with a short section of strait shank on the open end. If the shank section will pass through your steel wheel hole, seat the tapper against the wheel counter sink and not bottom out against the hub while passing into the spacer I think you'd be home free. I'd certainly try that long before I'd go changing studs just to find I now had a fender to tire issue.
    The Wizzard
     
  21. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    My first car, bought in 1958, was a bone stock 1950 Ford two door, mid line trim, V8, had 16" wheels from new. I don't know for sure which was standard and which was optional, the 16" or the 15". However MOST 1950 models I have seen and/or owned since, have 15" wheels.

    Ray
     
  22. 54fierro
    Joined: Jul 6, 2006
    Posts: 493

    54fierro
    Member
    from san diego

    It doesn't like like much in the pic, could you maybe grind a little off the arm?
     
  23. Postman
    Joined: Dec 9, 2010
    Posts: 21

    Postman
    Member
    from Germany

    The Point with the lug nut style is very interesting!!!! And I was thinking of some fender / tire contact too

    I just thought of Volvo wheels, which have the same lug diameter like Ford. And they are easier to find in Germany, than steel wheels for American cars. I have some Mopar stuff lying around, but to fat or 14#

    You guys stimulated my brain. There are a few new ideas to try. And the main thing is, that it looks like, that I was not to stupid, to put the front axle back together. ;-)

    I will show the results, when the car is back.
    Still a lot of things to do. But hopefully road ready for the spring 2016!
     

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