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Technical need help with '32 Ford 3w side window channels

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by deuce666, Jan 18, 2018.

  1. deuce666
    Joined: Jan 10, 2008
    Posts: 161

    deuce666
    Member
    from Oregon

    Thanks in advance for any ***istance!
    I've got a '32 3W coupe with a chop - 2" in the back and about 2-1/4" in the front. I'm now installing window channels and door hardware, and I've made gl*** templates out of luan. I have a couple of questions as this is the first time I've done anything like this and I don't have any original hardware to compare against.

    I've include three pictures. Picture #1 shows the horizontal metal channel on which the gl*** sits. This is attached to the window crank mechanism. Picture #2 shows the u-shaped rubber strip that sits inside the channel. Three questions:
    1. should I use an adhesive to hold the rubber strip to the metal channel? If so, what kind of adhesive is best?
    2. should I use an adhesive to hold the gl*** in the rubber? My instinct is that I probably don't need it due to the weight of the gl***, but thought I'd double check.

    Picture #3 shows the gl*** template in the rolled up position. There is a gap between the template (gl***) and the door body (at the arrow). Does that little lip on the rubber strip need to come all the way up to this outside edge and parallel to the window opening (so I can see it), OR, does the rubber lip push up against the inner structure of the door but farther down below so it's not visible?

    Again, I'd sure appreciate any insights.

    Richard

    PIC01.JPG pic02.JPG pic03.JPG
     
  2. Dirty Dug
    Joined: Jan 11, 2003
    Posts: 3,722

    Dirty Dug
    Member

    Even with a chopped car the window gl*** is not cut to match the chop but left full height so when down it will rest on the window stop in the inner door frame. You shouldn't see the channel when the window is rolled up. Because your car has an uneven chop only the top of the gl*** needs to be adjusted to match the chop.
     
    Xman likes this.
  3. Happydaze
    Joined: Aug 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,390

    Happydaze
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You won't see that gap when the fuzzies are installed.

    Interesting though, I've never seen one of those rubber channels before. Is that as original '32?

    On other cars I've found that if the bottom channel isn't tight to the gl*** it'll become detached when coming down if the gl*** is at all snug in the side channels. Possibly not the right thing to do but I've always set the gl*** in a couple of blobs or silicon or sealer. Need to be able to dig it out if the gl*** needs replacement. Fore / aft placement of the bottom channel on the gl*** is critical for the runners to operate properly.

    Chris
     
  4. RICH B
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 5,996

    RICH B
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    On the chopped cars I have made the gl*** patterns such that the rubber lip seals just below opening.
    I don't know about your 3W; but all the pre '36 Fords I have worked on had rubber bumpers on the garnish and door opening edges instead of fuzzys. Of course, you could always use a fuzzy strip if you wanted.
    I also modified the down stop bracket to work with the shorter gl***.
    The channels and rubber I had fit together tight and I just lubed them and pounded the channels on. I see from further responses to this thread that the channels and rubber they make now don't work like this anymore, so I guess you should disregard this.
    I also get the pattern operating up and down properly and check it on both sides of the car; sometimes they are not quite the same.
    I use 1/4" masonite for patterns as it seems closer to gl*** thickness and sands smooth so it doesn't snag in gl*** runs while fitting.
    When you are all done, save the patterns, you never know.
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2018
  5. 325w
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 6,508

    325w
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    What he has is repop gl*** channel set tape. It will not hold the gl*** correctly. Just use regular gl*** setting tape.
     
  6. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 11,360

    BJR
    Member

    I have also used urethane to set the gl*** in the lower channel. Once it sets the gl*** is there to stay.
     
  7. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,766

    alchemy
    Member

    That original style rubber lip won't seal worth a darn, so don't even bother with it. Use 3M black urethane to set/glue the gl*** into the channel like BJR says. It will work great, and never come out again unless you use a hammer.

    If you want a semi-weather-tight seal on the door edge to gl***, get a more modern (50's style) rubber lip from the major gl*** parts suppliers. Or just use some of the single sided fuzzies that will match the U channel fuzzies on the upper portion of the gl*** run. And also glue all these fuzzies in with the same urethane. No screws needed if you clean the parts well before clamping them into position while the urethane sets up. But beware the urethane is messy and will stain any soft items it gets on. Clean it immediately with turpentine from the paint and gl***.
     
  8. deuce666
    Joined: Jan 10, 2008
    Posts: 161

    deuce666
    Member
    from Oregon

    HappyDaze - the rubber channels are from Vintique part number B-45968 and supposedly patterned after originals. The label says they fit '28 to 38 models.
     
  9. deuce666
    Joined: Jan 10, 2008
    Posts: 161

    deuce666
    Member
    from Oregon

    Wow, this is a ton of useful information, thank you!!

    So just to confirm --

    1. skip use of the rubber and just install the gl*** in the channel with 3M black urethane glue. No rubber, right?
    2. I like the idea of using the late '50s rubber strip rather than the fuzzies. Any recommendation for specific suppliers?

    thanks again!!
     
  10. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,766

    alchemy
    Member

    deuce666 and RICH B like this.
  11. deuce666
    Joined: Jan 10, 2008
    Posts: 161

    deuce666
    Member
    from Oregon

    Alchemy --

    Great links!!

    Thanks much.

    Richard


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     

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