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Technical Need help with 33 Chrysler gauges

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Dino 64, Nov 14, 2020.

  1. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,533

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    96FBB2D9-CFF9-4B2A-AE1D-A36325DC0953.jpeg 2AA7109A-B91B-4D18-AD8D-7C6B1DF67015.jpeg 6FD50FA7-8D7B-4982-9D09-AA5F33EFC591.jpeg So I sent a 1933 gauge cluster to be rebuilt to a reputable person who has been recommended on H.A.M.B. The gauge in question is a mechanical oil pressure gauge. New internals but the case is original. Needed the fitting that goes into the rear of the gauge. Called the guy who did the work and he told me it’s special, he had one and send it. Got it in the mail today and the pics tell the story. It was bent more before the pic, I did my best to clean it up and straighten and open the tube. This tube needs to go to the oil sending hole on a sbc crate.
    So does anyone have this type of fitting with a longer tube to sell or someone I can be referred to ?
    Does anyone have any ideas on how to connect a 3/16” tube to this stub ? The hose is 3/16”
    Thanks in advance
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  2. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 4,220

    rusty valley
    Member

    looks similar to the ferrels used on big truck air lines. sort of cone shaped as opposed to the plain round that you can buy at a hardware store. you need to find a ferrel so you can then get rid of that beat up nut, which looks like a ford fuel line nut to me. if you really had to use it you could clean up that line, tin it, then sleeve another tube over the top and solder it. and what the hell did you do to make a post look like this? lol
     
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  3. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 15,030

    Budget36
    Member

    1/4 inch should sit snug enough on that piece you have and another 3/16th piece. Them braze them up. Or just braze 1/4inch over it and run to where it needs to go.
     
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  4. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,533

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Thanks guys, a compression fitting was suggested but I don’t think I have enough hose. Not nuts about compression fittings.
    @ rusty valley, the nut threads into the gauge as it should, plan to replace it, I’ll look for air brake lines.
    Thanks
     
  5. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,533

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    What’s wrong with the post anyway??:(:):)
     
  6. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 4,220

    rusty valley
    Member

    when i first saw it, it was layed out in a strange pattern i have never seen before here. you must have posted off your phone, or a dominion box or sumthin. its all better now
     
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  7. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 15,030

    Budget36
    Member

    Compression fittings will work, heck, that’s what seals the gauge. Truck fittings are made for airline, and have an insert inside them so as not to over compress the plastic line. DOT stuff, but hardware store fittings would work too, but don’t recall seeing 3/16th anywhere locally at the stores. Always 1/8th, 1/4 etc
     
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  8. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,533

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Haven’t started looking for compression fittings yet, just got this today. As far as tinning, what do you use , silver solder, pipe solder ??
    I’ll need to unscrew it too
     
  9. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,533

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Right, braze, sorry :rolleyes:
     
  10. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 15,030

    Budget36
    Member

    I don’t tin with brass, I clean it and use flux rod now. Used to add the stuff, heat, dip and go. But now in the last many years they have the flux on the brass rods. Preheat both, then braze over. Silver solder might work well too, would definitely hold the pressure. But I’ve never used it in that kinda thing so can’t comment. With brazing you’re going to seal it around the pieces, not inside like silver solder will do
     
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  11. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,533

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    I don’t think silver solder and steel may not hold, copper, brass sure, but steel ? I’ll braze, thanks again. Hope to find another original piece with a longer hose, if not braze.:)
     
  12. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 15,030

    Budget36
    Member

    I don’t know, only silver soldered on brass and copper. Google will probably educate us on that!


    That said, is the stub you have left steel?
     
  13. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,533

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Yes it’s steel, original I assume. Was real careful straightening it out
     
  14. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 15,030

    Budget36
    Member

    Is the ferrule on there really snugged down? It looks like a brass ferrule. They can be brought back to life.
     
  15. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 15,030

    Budget36
    Member

    Oh, can you get a clean pic of your gauge it goes in to?
     
  16. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,533

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Yes the ferrule is very tight on the line
    Pics of opening in back of the gauge 66DA44F3-CCAA-47B0-B5CC-9302ED91FBD8.jpeg 24A3DDF8-4A1E-42F2-B735-11C2D2401F18.jpeg 387ACF20-3D8C-4BC4-8947-2956544D2A48.jpeg
     
  17. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 15,030

    Budget36
    Member

    Okay, looks brass. I’d bet a dollar to a doughnut that a 3/16 ferrule will work. Brass seals well. If concerned, I can tell you what to do to save the ferrule.
     
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  18. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,533

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Yes how do I save that ferrule? Can I remove it and install it on another line ?
    Thanks
     
  19. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,533

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    The line is 3/16” the nut is 3/8”
     

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