I am finally getting around to screwing my 392 together. Was getting parts lined out and looked at the timing gear and noticed some stuff I do not understand. I see the timing mark that relates to the cam gear, but the three keyway slots have me confused. One is marked (A) I am sure that means advanced the next one is marked (R) and I realize that is for retard and the last one is marked "O" . Now those are the marking right next to the keyway slots, above them are the same three markings so I don't understand were in the hell to put this critter when I get the motor together. HELP!!!
First thing we need to ask is do you plan on installing and degree-ing in the cam to some cam manufacturer's specification? If no, then you would just install the cam dot to dot, per normal. Instead of a dot on your cam gear, you would use the outer "0" on your crank gear. That will put your woodruff key at approximately the 1 o'clock position. Any other plan, well that's a deep subject.
Each keyway has an index mark... A, R and O, if you want the timing at straight up O, put that keyslot on the crank key, then rotate the crank until the outer O lines up with the cam gear. Same on the other 2 if you want to advance or retard the cam by 4 degrees. Pretty much explains itself when you at the gear long enough. [emoji9] Sent from my Moto G Play using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
its not safe to ***ume that everything is machined correctly with no variations. the only way to really know were the cam is being placed is to use a degree wheel. the parts could be off some and usually are. if they stack up too far one way or the other you wont be happy. get a degree wheel and look up how to degree a cam. its not hard to do. usually advancing the cam gives you a little more power. doing it correctly will not only give you peace of mind it will give you the most power out of your project.
To be honest I really had no intentions of degree-ing this cam. After reading the responses I have changed my mind about that. I ordered a degree wheel and have spent some time reading about how to do this. Really seems pretty straight forward. I have dial indicators and magnetized stands for them. The solid lifter is a problem, but can I use a regular hydraulic lifter and put the dial indicator on the shoulder? Also in looking at this crank gear I now understand that you use the letters the A--R--and O together like A to A and R to R and O to O correct? So what if after I degree the cam I need more or less advance or retard than this gear has? What the hell do you do then? Also all of these timing marks are different. Like if I use the Advance letters ---A to A , lining the A on the outside of the gear to the "O" mark on the cam sprocket and then using the A woodruff key slot that moves the crank gear by 3 gear teeth ( I do not have a way to measure how many degrees that actually is but hell I can count and that is 3 teeth). But if you use the O as an example that moves the gear by 3 1/2 teeth, that's got to mean something. I don't know how much 1/2 a tooth is but it is something right? And on the R side of this deal that is 4 teeth. Can someone explain this to me or am I trying to reading to much into it?
Start by using the O, A or R marks to get you close. Then use an offset key if you need to fine tune things.
No, you are not actually moving the gear that much, it is only a 4* change between the key way and the cam gear markings. Look closely at the crank gear and the positioning of the key way to the gear teeth and you will see the “straight up”of the “0” mark as compared to the advance and retard marks and key ways.
Yes, you are still not clear on this. Start with the 0 on the cam gear at 6 o'clock and the 0 on the crank gear at 12 o'clock. Note position of crank key. Now put the A at the top. Note that the key position has only moved slightly. You probably won't even see the difference until you try to put in together in the engine. That small amount is how much you are moving the cam phasing. Someone mentioned offset keys for a Hemi, so I ***ume they make them. That's how you split the difference, once you figure out what you're looking for.
and while you are at it verify tdc against the timing chain cover. you can easily make a piston stop to do the job. i won't put a engine together without doing this. you can pick up the lifter from its edge. its just harder to do. a single small block mopar solid lifter can be bought from most big name auto parts store. they are under ten dollars.
Guys I want to thank mall of you for the advice, it is much appreciated. In looking at this crank gear I think ( and that's a big deal--Me Thinking) that I am beginning to get a handle on this. I took a big piece of vanilla paper, wonder why they call it vanilla paper? I mean it comes in all colors so why arn't the browns one's chocolate paper, and greens ones lime paper, that's messed up man. Anyway I took a piece of this vanilla paper and drew a comp*** on it with the full 360° . laid this gear on that grid and using a yard stick determined that each of those marks A_F_and O or exactly 4° difference between them as "Fordors" said. So I guess 1/2 tooth on the crank gear is = to 4°. I cannot find the offset woodruff keys for the Hemi. Right now I am hoping that I won't need one and one of these on the crank gear will work. I will have the degree wheel tomorrow and we will see what we see, I guess. Thanks again guys...
"X" is the lifter just a reference point to measure the .050 lift thing? If it is could I not just weld a flat piece on top of the lifter to measure from.
Not if it's a lifter you intend to use. Chances are that your dial indicator will work OK on a hydraulic lifter, as the plunger spring in the lifter is not going to compress at all unless your dial indicator is rusted up. Push the plunger down with a pushrod, and compare that effort to what it takes to move the needle on your indicator. A dial indicator doesn't take much pressure to move the needle.
Ebbs, No man I wouldn't try and use that one, I'm pretty dumb sometimes just not that dumb. I have plenty of Hemi lifters I have 4 392's and a 354. I am what you call Hemi poor. Trouble is I never built one of the things before. Plenty of Chevy's but this is my first MOPAR and I have sooooo much money just tied up in the parts for this ONE. That I am running a little scared.
I was only ***uming so, too. The thing is, if this is a street driven engine it probably won't be necessary to split hairs this finely. But it would be worth the effort to degree the cam during ***embly just to know where you're at starting out. And as mentioned above, to verify TDC for ignition timing.
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