My brakes are wheezing! The background: Its a '50 Plymouth. I've been running stock drums with a modern dual master/power booster setup for years. When you first start driving the brakes squeek awful and pull hard right for the first few stops, then settle down and work normal for the rest of the drive. Pedal was a little spongy, and the fluid hadn't been changed since forever, so I put on speed bleeders and changed it. Only thing weird was the lower right front cylinder didn't bleed as easily as the others. I got some fluid out, but it was difficult and didn't really pump much out after much trying. After the fluid change the brakes work, but still have all the same symptoms, and one new one: When you pump the pedal (engine off, so no vacuum), as it returns there is a faint wheezing sound. Maybe it wheezed before, but I sure never noticed it. My question: What do I do (and in what order) to chase down the problem(s).
when u here the sounds are u looking brake pressure as well? sounds to me like u have a small leak in your system some where.make sure u go thrue the whole system and look for leaks. or park the car on clean dry concreat and look for spots. as far as the squek goes. pull off your your drums and make sure they are adjusted dead on. then take a small die grinder and get a dust mask on. and bevel the edges of the shoes to about 30 degress or so. when u have your drums off inspect for a leaky wheel cylinder as well.
If your wheel cylinders are really old and haven't been o'hauled for a while, the moisture that had collected in the brake fluid may have partially rusted the wheel cylinder pistonsand the wall. This would really inhibit the free movement of them when you put on or release the brakes; when you park the car, the pistons are pushed out against the shoes and if they can't return to the nutral position, there they sit with the shoes up against the drums until you drive the car the next time. When you first drive the car, it will take a bit until the cycling of on-and-off of the brakes free's up the piston and allows it to return to the withdrawn position. Solution? Change fluid as you have and also pull apart the offending wheel cylinder, get new rubber cups for the pistons and buy a small hone for the cylinder body. Oh, and use Barryman's to lubricate the hone stones; it doesn't leave any residue. While you have it off, check to make sure that the brake fluid inlet isn't clogged. Might also check the brake shoe return springs on that wheel to make sure that they are up to the job.BTW, is this for your woodie? K
Thanks for the input. K- yep, this is the woodie. Just one of those things I put off because it sort of fixed itself, at least till it started wheezing . I've got some nos cylinders sitting in a box. If they're the right ones I may just sub one in. If not, what is Barryman's?
IF YOU HAVE A VACUUME CANISTER ON THE FENDER, EVEN WITH ENGINE OFF YOU MAY STILL HAVE VACUUME. UNPLUG THE VACUUME HOSE OFF THE BOOSTER THEN SEE IF THE NOISE HAPPENS. I'M ASSUMING YOU ARE SUSPECTING THE BOOSTER IF YOU'RE CHECKING IT WITH THE ENGINE OFF. COMMON WEEZING CAN BE COMING FROM ROD BUSHING AS ROD SLIDES THROUGH THE FIREWALL/FLOOR WHEREVER YOUR BOOSTER IS MOUNTED. AND NO GREASING THE ROD MIGHT NOT FIX THE PROBLEM BUT IT SURE FEELS GOOD!!! THEN AGAIN IT JUST MIGHT WORK. THERE IS ANOTHER BUSHING FURTER IN THAT GREASING THE ROD WONT GET TO, IN WHICH CASE YOU STILL MAY NEED A BOOSTER. WHILE YOUR CHECKING YOUR CYLINDER FOR RUST ETC... WORD TO THE WISE, I HAVE CHASED MY TAIL MANNY 'O' TIME TO FIND THE PROBLEM WAS A BRAKE HOSE. CHECK FOR CRACKING, SIGNS OF AGE, MAY BE SWELLING SHUT ON INNER LINER OF HOSE. THIS WILL NOT BE VISIBLE FROM THE OUTSIDE. CUT THE HOSE LENGTHWISE, IF ITS SWOLEN REPLACE IT!! IF ITS NOT, REPLACE IT, YOU JUST RUINED A PERFECTLY GOOD HOSE!!!!
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