Technical Need Source for Heavy Duty Tie Rod and Drag link tubing

Maybe ?

 

Unfortunately to put it behind the axle, the front of the car needs to be cut off and redesigned. I am not poo pooing your help, there just is 1000's with tie rod in front that work. Thank you

 

Ok so maybe I was uneducated on this one. I didn't know a difference between square back spindles. Are there car and truck spindles that are different? I just knew 42-48 square back. Hmmmm. I do not know the total camber. The best way to check that would be a gaige on the rotor maybe?

Yes tie rod amd drag link are new Speedway parts. 880 od and 156 wall (iirc) I can pull up amd push down flexing the bar. This was my thoughts on the issue at hand. New tubing came last night. 1.125X.120 DOM. That stuff doesn't bend at all. The tires are 215 I believe. That is too big? I figured lighter radial vs heavy biased would work

 

Really hard saying in my eyes. It could fix the slow parking lot turns and scrub but I don't see how that will fix the shake. I am open to all suggestions though.

 

Yes, that spindle with the round bolt-in arm is from an F-1. Can’t tell what the other side spindle is though. As I asked, what is your camber?

For me, the tires are not my style. And if the scrub radius is too far out, I would think a wider tire would cause more pull, which could lead to death wobbling.

 

No they don't work. You are arguing against The Laws of Physics.

With the tie rod in front, using these components, in every corner you will be either dragging or pushing a tire.

You will never have more than the cornering traction of a single tire.

 

Yes you asked what total camber was. I asked back it an angle gauge on the rotor would be an adequate way to measure. I just want to be accurate here to help give good info.

The p***engers side spindle has the large bolt on steering arm. The drivers side is cast in the spindle. Does this mean I have one of each? Yikes.

 

Yep you can measure on the wheel mounting surface as long as the spindle is at the same height as when the wheel is attached.

F-1 had one spindle with the bolt on arm and one forged. Maybe it doesn’t matter one bit if the kingpin inclination is the same as regular p***enger spindles. I just had a thought that they were different. If you have too much camber (outer edge of tire contacts more) it may add extra scrub.

Also check the toe in.

 

I will check camber later today. It has 1/8" toe in

 

Camber pictures. Drivers side looks like 2⁰ and p***engers side is 3.75⁰.

 

I see the factory steering arms are about 1/4" difference in length measure from the axle face to the center of the bolt for the heim.

So, do I cut these off and use the new arms I have??? It would effect turning, but would this play into the wobble??

 

Maybe I will just remove these and use the round back spindles i have

 

So I swapped over to the round back spindles. Camber is now 2.5⁰ on both and with the bolt on plate steering arms, the tie rod is too short...doh.

 

I was talking with a ch***is builder this summer and he likes to have 0 camber, but I think Ford designed about 1 degree into the stock axle and spindles. If you have over 200% of the designed amount, and maybe the tires have a bit more offset than a stock Ford, I would think those might be a source of the wobble.

I never thought those plate bolt on arms looked very strong. But I haven’t used them personally.

 

I built this "T" 45 years ago, using Chevy spindles with the tie rod in the front, and got the steering arm as close to the rotor as possible, and VW Bus steering box. With the hidden torsion bars, it rode and drove great, only a slight scuffing of the front tires, in a tight turn where there was fine rock particles on pavement. You could drive it 85 with one finger on the steering wheel. It was light, with a 289 Ford engine and narrow radials up front.

 

What spindles was the axle designed for ? 0-1° + camber would be the limits I'd think .

 

Driving down the road blissfully ignoring the laws of physics & all the ***ociated garbledygook !

 

I was just too dumb back then !

 

So now I am confused. A model A axle with round back spindles seem to be the go to.. .those and p***enger car square backs. Are you guys saying every one of you bend axles etc to change the camber?

How much camber on each of your rides???

 

+ 1/2°

 

Not sure why your standard combo of A axle and 40 spindles gives you over 2 degrees? Maybe your axle was previously bent?

 

Firstly, I have to admire your posting of a photo of a car that you KNOW people are going to bash, and for trying to correct the (built in) flaws that are causing the death wobble. As many have suggested, get rid of the stupid Heim joints and get tie rod ends. The wide profile radial tires aren't helping, the suicide steering is, as you've been told, is totally wrong, despite lots of misguided home builders doing it to look cool. I get that you like it and and it would be a pain to do it "right", but you may have to live the inherent problems it's giving you if you are unwilling to give up that "look".
My issue isn't with the style of the car (it's obviously not what I like), but the fact that it's built to be unsafe. Your safety is your business, but when you drive that, at anything over parking lot speeds, it's not just your safety that's at issue. It's your p***engers and the rest of us on the road.

 

No matter what "band-aids" are put on this, it will always have the same design defect.

I recently got back a car that I started building at a shop where I worked about a decade ago. I did not finish the front end.

It wash finished with an incorrect Ackerman setup. It had incurable death wobble, and was difficult to drive.

It was eating the expensive Firestone tire on the low side of the road crown (because it was pushing that tire due to the Ackerman issue).

After correcting that issue, the customer is driving it constantly, and has put more miles on it since I fixed it, that he did in the first decade with the incorrect setup.

My position is not a matter of opinion. This is a matter of the very fine Laws of Physics, as applied to Automotive Engineering.

Only vehicles that have been designed specifically to have the tie rod out front, to maintain correct Ackerman, can actually do this.

Using the components that you have, this would require that you remove the front brakes and leave them off, then heat and bend the steering arms until the tie rod pivot the kingpin pivot and the center of the rear axle are all on the same line, on both sides, +/- 2º.

I am not guessing here. Until recently, I was a third-generation GM employee, working as a Vehicle Engineer.

I guarantee that you will not get to where you want to go with this without reworking it.

Even if the ride becomes tolerable, it will still be dragging or pushing a tire, and that will never be the safe way of handling this.

 

No idea really. Makes no sense. Also with both being the same, it is very strange to say the least.

 

Quite possibly it will have to go back to the drawing board and change it all. Thanks to all of you.

 

Read the post above yours

 

I did read them...read them all and taking all the help I can get. Not sure the reason to have someone bend their A axle purposely unless they planned to have it very heavy? To do it "correct" as I am being told, I need to s**** the whole front end and possibly replace the whole frame section.

 

Gimpy is not trying to make more work for you, he’s trying to have you drive a safe vehicle.

 

I get it. I am not trying to ask for help and then listen to nothing either. Just going to have to change it all and no time/budget to start over. Also the one that has been working, sounds like I shouldn't be using either. All is good.