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Need suggetions on a radiator

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by MrManz, Apr 27, 2004.

  1. I have a Modle A frame, and im running a 292 Ford Y block. I need a radiator and i woudl like suggestions. I dont have a grill shell or anything along those lines yet. But i would like to know what you guys are running. Im trying to not brake the bank. But like I said, im looking for suggestions. Let me know what ind of radiator you are running, and if you started with a original and recored it, or what. Im looking for suggestions. So please let me know.
    Thanks,
    -Andrew
     
  2. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 9,552

    manyolcars

    I used a 52-56 Ford pass car rad on my chopped and channeled A coupe
     
  3. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 12,290

    AHotRod
    Member

    I used a 70-75 Mopar full size 318 radiator, cut off the sheet-metal wings, and bingo.
    I run a Chev 357 CID w/twin AFB carbs....runs @ 195 with a 195 thermostat...here in Florida!
     
  4. I hear, but havent yet tried, a 65-66, maybe later Mustang radiator fits into some of the more common radiator shells.
    If I'm talking out my ass, sorry! But I was looking to try one in my car...
     
  5. i went the easy way and bought a walker. this was after using a used(up) radiator. the car ran much cooler with the walker. i know they are pricey, but with the money i tried to save by using used parts and the trips to the radiator shop trying to fix the used one..... never again. do it right... do it once.
     
  6. Brad54
    Joined: Apr 15, 2004
    Posts: 6,021

    Brad54
    Member
    from Atl Ga

    I agree with doing it right the first time.
    I ran a "fixed" original radiator on my '54 Buick. Went back for repairs three times, it still leaked and was too small. Then bought a bigger Roadmaster rad for $200, and wasted $200 bucks.
    I'm going with a Griffin radiator. I've toured the plant, taken pix and have seen how they're produced from raw coils of aluminum to finished radiators, and will have them make one for my car.
    The two biggest things I learned were that the lead joint between copper and brass is an insulator, so heat isn't transferred well, and a repaired joint will leak at the edge of the repair as the pressure pushes water under the lead "patch" --exactly what mine was doing! Plus they're lighter and stronger, and flow more in a two-row than a copper/brass three-row will flow, so they're narrower. Griffin has stamped tanks instead of fab'ed, so they look "right." Fog it black, and no one knows.
    (Yeah, that's going to be a whore piece for a magazine, but the things are great, they work, they help the car run cooler, and I'm buying one for my personal ride)
    -Brad
     
  7. thirtytwo
    Joined: Dec 19, 2003
    Posts: 2,636

    thirtytwo
    Member

    [ QUOTE ]
    I used a 70-75 Mopar full size 318 radiator, cut off the sheet-metal wings, and bingo.
    I run a Chev 357 CID w/twin AFB carbs....runs @ 195 with a 195 thermostat...here in Florida!

    [/ QUOTE ]..............you mean like cordoba?????????
     

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