Hot Rods Need to shift (finished) body on frame: 40 Ford

Bought a driving street rod project years ago, 100% Henry steel, new floor, fresh 2 stage paint, interior, mechanicals needed attention, seller burn-out on project. I knew rear wheel wasn't centered in opening then. I get an occasional tire rub, could resolve with smaller tires but I'm tired of looking at the non centered wheel. I plum-bob'd the frame, cross member (MII), and axles, measured diagonals, spot on. Club member who is actively building (but doesn't have time to take it on) says loosen the mounts, remove boards, etc. but NOT front clip, get a bunch of guys and just do it. My WAG is everything above the frame must be close to 1,000 lbs?

Anyone done something like this?

 

??? On many 40's the rear is not centered in the fenders--even stock ones are off. Have dealt with this on many 40's. Moved the rear end. Got a good picture? is it parallel leaf springs in rear?

 

You think the holes in the floor are slotted enough to make a difference? And you are willing to risk all your door, hood, and running board alignments for a wild ass guess?

I'd say fix the crooked rearend. Or at the least try to fix it with spacers and maybe different wheels.

 

I think it's the one in the avatar, could be a little lower in the back too.

 

You never said what set up you have for rear suspension. It could be fairly easy to move the rear end instead of the body.

If you pull the body back that much it will change the orientation on the front wheels and fenders.

I agree with Alchemy, I don’t think the body holes are slotted enough to make any difference.

 

Leave the body -move the rearend

 

You are going to have to eyeball how far back the rear wheel needs to go then make a lowering block that relocates the rear end the proper amount.

It took me two tries to get mine in the right spot.



-Abone.

 

^^^ what he said--we have done many 40's and all had to have the rearend moved back about 3/4-1". Stock 40's are off too-usually too far forward by about 1/2" There are adjustable lowering blocks for this purpose

 

40, the front clip, especially the hood, is a bear to get aligned perfectly. Once you move the body 1/4" it will throw everything off. I agree with the rehang the rear suggestions, a lot easier to me.

 

The axles are spaced perfectly, hate to change that? I've changed all the mechanicals, put a Comet 8" in, don't know what the leafs are from. Have blocks on it which have caused wheel hop. I've got so much time and $$ in this I'd like to fix the body. The LR is forward about 3/4", I'd like to resolve this and put painted wheels on it. I don't want to tackle that hood alignment, shops have been locked down and probably a few went out of business, tough to get someone to look at it. This site is giving me a security error uploading pic, I'll try to do it seperately. Thanks!

 

Listen to olscrounger, MOVE the REAR not the body.

 

MOVE THE REAR ...... MOVE THE REAR ..... MOVE THE REAR..... MOVE THE REAR....... Did I mention MOVING THE REAR?

 

Lowered one of those many years ago (it was 70's ride height). When you lower cars that are on a rake it further exaggerates the wheel forward problem.
My problem was solved by setting the car up how I wanted it, cut out the rear cross member (it was Jag), positioned the new rolling stock where it needed to be and installed a fresh cross member set where the new wheel location dictated. Trailing arms and tailshaft had to be modified accordingly.
You can do the same, without taking the body off and even easier for you if you have parallel leaves.

It's not rocket surgery, but the body sits where the body sits.

 

Guaranteed it is not the way the body is mounted!! It is the rear axle move it to center the wheels in the fender opening. My 39 Deluxe was the same way, I had to move the axle to center the wheels.

 

As most everyone is suggesting, move the rear. Since you have parallel leaves, and lowering blocks, re-drill the blocks to move the rear end to centered location.

 

I'ma with you. Move the axle. I would say no way on moving the body. If you have good margins and fits in front of "a" post, don't touch it .

Sent from my XT1710-02 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Listen to what olscrounger says.

 

MOVE THE REAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I can't begin to count the things moving the body will screw up. If MOVING THE REAR is above your skill set buy a pair of skirts. Bob

 

LR is forward about 3/4" eh?
Is the RR off the same amount or is it a different distance?
Is one of the lowering blocks in backwards?
Does the car dog-track going down the road?

 

I'd get a measurement from each front wheel back, the move the rear to center the fender, double checking the front-rear measurement. Since you already have parallel leafs, it's possible they put one side in 3/4" too far one way or the other. Then I'd drill my block for the locating pin going by these new measurements.

 

Or one leaf installed backwards? You could probably just drill a new hole in your saddles to move the axle rearward. If not, the adjustable blocks aren't expensive at all. The body is where it's supposed to be.

 

When you installed the comet rear, did you use the alignment pin on the unknown leaf springs, amd align it with the hole in the rear end mounting pad for a comet? Your car is not a comet.

Redrill the hole for the leaf spring alignment pin in the rear end mounting pad, or use the adjustable mounting spacers others have suggested.

 

Well........personally, I'd move the body!
(At least now you have ONE person that agreed with you)!
What do these other 39 & 40 owners know anyhow!!?
6sally6

 

Don't listen to him Get a sawzall and a pack of blades. Make it "custom"

 

I'd suggest moving the rear backwards a bit so it is centered (and so has everyone else, especially '39 and '40 owners). But if you're dead set on moving the body, move the body. Just don't expect sympathy when you open Pandora's Box.

 

Ok, final answer. Sell it to somebody else and let them MOVE THE REAR.

 

How the hell can you move the body back ,what a crock of bullshit

 

If only the left rear is 3/4" forward, I would "string the chassis" or have a 4 wheel alignment, to see if the rear is cocked.

 

Good point, did anyone suggest Gasser fender cutouts to match the existing wheels & tires?

 

Really mess with everybody and put the body on the frame backwards.
Just move the frickin rear end if you put the comet rear in then it's just a matter of adjusting it to fit.
Even leaf springs are not that hard to drill if you need to make an adjustment.