I'll try to be as thorough as possible... I rebuilt a ww 6-132 for a buddies '63 Stude w/289 and it just keeps running rich. The only part that was not replaced was the powervalve/piston...and I think it may have been soaked in carb cleaner (he dissassembled and soaked the parts and had them rinsing in water when I arrived. I blew out all passages with compressed air, followed by brakeclean, then more air. Pulled the jet tubes out verified all holes clear/clean...pulled the metering rods (I think that's what they are called..sorta have a round cap with a skinny hollow tapered tube on them) and verified clean/etc. Set the whole carb up (via Studabaker shop manual) using Stromberg tools (choke tool/float gage etc) set float (from Studabaker forum advice) at 7/32 instead of 3/16. The dang thing just idles real rich and gets worse as RPM's come up....it did not have this issue with the ww 6-130 on it before, but the ww 6-130 had a crack in the bowl area causing fuel to weep out and the top hat was severly warped, so we found a ww 132 for a replacement...only thing we can tell as far as difference in the carbs are the jet sizes...130 has 56's and 132 has 54's..we used the 54's. Only thing I could think "fuel related" inside the carb would be the PV/piston...could it cause rich condition from idle through RPM range if bad? One other possible clue, only passenger side bleed screw has minimal effect on idle quality, driverside has no effect at all. I did have timing set advanced a few degrees initially, but tried it all over the place with no difference. Distributor was upgraded last year from to GM HEI and new upgraded coil and spark does look very strong. Thanks for any advice...oh and I did have a previous thread about checkball locations, but got that sorted out and corrected. Thanks for any help.
I always take the power valve out and run some emery paper over it and the bore to make sure it's nice and smooth. Sounds like you might either have a float or needle/seat issue, or maybe you're running more than 2 - 4 PSI in your fuel line, though. How many turns out are the idle screws?
I had the same with my sixpack after I put a Thumpr cam in it. Due to less vacuum the powervalves came in too soon. I cut some coils from the spring(s) and now it is fine good luck
Did all the little check balls get re-installed. I run two with the Backdraft air horn and they work great.
Thank guy's, sorry for the delayed response here, been in Cyber hell. Abomination: The fuel pressure "should" be okay, as it's the same pump (mechanical) that was in the car with the previous ww 6-130 and was not running rich, we had to change the carb because the fuel bowl was cracked and the top was severly warped. I started with the bleed screw at 1-1/4 turns out. Only the pass side has any effect turning in about 3/8th of a turn, driver side has no effect on idle quality. Also, as soon as we shut the engine down I pulled the top of the carb off (took just a minute-max) and fuel was well down in the bowl. I had the owner crank the engine over and no fuel came in, so pretty sure seat is fine and not flooding. Float was set at 7/32. I'm going to (probably this weekend when I get back to hi place) pul the PV and smooth things out as you mentioned, I should have at least (especially for the number of times I had the carb apart) checked to see if it was hanging up...all I did was give it a few quick "pushes" and said "ya...it's free". Mean Lean: I have a few more PV in other Stomberg WW's, so I might give it a try too, heck, I could just plug the danged holl with the PV out and verify it's the problem, now that I know it can cause an issue. Flt-Blk: Yes, one under the accelerator pump and other under the discharge plate for the squirters. Thanks guys, it'll be a bit before I get back to the car (my buddies about 90 miles away) but will post up the results after I get to it. Thanks again.
You may want to wither blow the idle circuit out on the side that doesn't do anything, or use a Water-Pik to make sure it flows free. Did you do this? http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=187105 ~Jason
Sounds like the power valve may be open all of the time. This may be caused by several issues. The two most common would be: (A) the power valve is defective (not seating, weak spring, etc). solution - replace (B) the power valve actuating valve is not functioning properly (stuck, insufficient clearance, wrong spring, etc.) Another possible cause, but not likely in this case is a large overlap cam with reduced vacuum signal. If you still have the original carb, try swapping the power valve from it to the current carb. Also verify that the power valve actuating valve is operating normally. This can be accomplished either by the use of a vacuum pump or creating a vacuum by blowing compressed air at a 90 degree direction to the vacuum source passage. And ALWAYS use the proper tool for removing/installing power valves. If you do not have the original Stromberg tool, take a wide bladed screwdriver with the proper thickness blade for the slot, and grind a cutout in the center of the blade to clear the power valve plunger. A new power valve can easily be ruined by using a plain screwdriver without the cutout. Jon.
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