I’m working on a new build that has a no spark condition. Before I start looking at the Rest of the system, wanted to make sure it’s wired correctly. Ford Banger, new rebuild FS II Distributor from FSI Flamethrower Coil WOSP Starter. LMS511 Powergen Alternator
Right wire from the push/start button isn’t getting constant power the way you’ve drawn it. Distributor wiring looks fine. So, no spark or no crank and no spark?
Cranks fine, rotates strong, also double checked distributor is installed correctly, as in not 180 out
Disconnect the wire from disty to coil. Take a wire and ground one end to an engine ground. Then connect the other end to the - side of coil, then release and check for spark. If spark, then disty is the problem. If in disty, check any condenser and points if that is what is in the disty. I have seen the little pigtail for the points go bad too.
Check + side of coil for 12 volts with test light. If no light, either fuse or ignition switch may be defective.
Reverse the connections side to side on the big terminals at the solenoid except for the power wire to the push button. I'd recommend relocating that wire to the ignition terminal on the ignition switch, that way the pushbutton will only be 'live' when the key is on. I'd also recommend moving the battery power wire to the ignition switch to the battery side of the solenoid, that way that wire won't be exposed to corrosion that will occur at the battery terminal. If it still won't start, it's probably ignition issues...
From your drawing, it looks like you might be missing a wire coming off the distributor. The FSI distributors use a Pertronix ignition module and they all have three wires. Check it... If the red wire is missing (not attached) the Pertronix module isn't "turning on" and thus, no spark.
You wiring is for a distributor with points. FSI is electronic. What does the wiring diagram with your distributor say.
Folks this is great, keep the ideas coming. Here are some answers and what I have accomplished so far. I will re-accomplish everything today with a direct ground, maybe direct from the battery ground or frame ground connection. At this point I am leaning towards a bad or problematic ignitor module. Johnny Gee: Fuse is good, only Fuse in System is the primary 20 Amp fuse from FSI. No other wiring in car. D2_willys: 12v power is available at the + terminal with ignition on. Crazy Steve: I took your suggestion and wired the start button accordingly. The primary power from the battery is what FSI calls for in their directions. PotvinV8: That was an error in the drawing, the wires are connected according to the FSI diagram. Thank for catching that. 29 Gizmo: I wired according to the instructions from FSI. PotvinV8 posted the instructions one post above yours. I ran the troubleshooting steps that FSI included. Step 1: It sparked, but not as strong of a spark as I have seen on other cars. My experience is that it’s a large, sharp zap. Step 2: I had 11+ Volts on this test. Step #3: This was weak and very intermittent.
you dont have power to the start button. draw your picture--->power to solenoid and start button. then from button to S which connects power to spin starter
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