'NEW' Chassis Research TE-440 Build Questions

I'm in the planning stages of building a digger that will hopefully begin this winter. I'm going to build sort of a TE-440 clone with updates to make it legal to run at speed. I'd like to keep the 'look' but still have some modern parts.

This is the car that, for the most part, I'd like to clone.



So, here are some questions I have.

#1 - Rear axle. What to use? I'm going to run a blown alky SBC and a shorty 'glide. I have a 9" Ford housing already. The Olds rear axle would be 'period' correct, as would a Halibrand 'banjo' style rear. But, I'd like to have all Chevy running gear. So, maybe a 12-bolt rear? And yes, I'm a Mopar guy WANTING to run a Chevy .

So, any ideas?

 

The cage is what will keep you from running.

 

http://kingchassis.net/index.php

 

As a Mopar guy, why not an 8 3/4" ?

As much as I love TE-440's it will look like a jungle jim (not Leiberman) by the time you ass enough bars to be NHRA legal.

 

I don't like when people mix and match brands. Like a T with a SBC.

I've seen cars in the past that kept on adding bars. It looks like $hit!!!!

I'm going to build a 6-point cage inside of the TE-440 roll bars. That way I can keep the look in want and still be legal. I'm going to build it out of mild steel, which you can legally run up to 7.50 in the 1/4 mile.

 

Ive seen cars in the past that kept on adding bars. It looks like $hit!!!!

I'm going to build a 6-point cage inside of the TE-440 roll bars. That way I can keep the look in want and still be legal. I'm going to build it out of mild steel, which you can legally run up to 7.50 in the 1/4 mile.[/QUOTE]


would like to see what you have in mind.... ive been looking at doing something like this, but the whole "looks like $hit!!!!" is the problem.

 

I'l try to make up some drawings tomorrow night, I don't think I'll have time tonight. I was planning on having a regular 6-point from a "Big-Boy Car" (Fat-Guys Ride) and attach it the the upper frame rails. Then, I'd have a cage within a cage. The tip of the cage would be as high or lower than the TE-440 roll bars. The head-on view might look weird, but the profile would be classic looking.

If you have a copy of Robert Genat's 'Vintage & Historic Drag Racers' from Motorbooks, turn to page 40 to see the Einolander & Candee digger I'm modeling mine after.

So, Chevy 12-bolt, is it a bad idea?

 

This is something I quick tried, but it gives you and idea, I hope.

The cage goes down to the top frame rail, inside of the roll bars. Then follow the cage down with some kickers to the lower frame rail. Also, added the 1" helmet bar that goes around the cage at about eye level. The rear of the cage would follow the roll bar lines.

 

Why not build a dragmaster clone instead? It would be way easier to meet tech and not look like it was an afterthought. Do you have a current copy of the NHRA regs?

 

I would suggest an 8-3/4 mopar rear. Lots more room over the pumpkin for your legs ect...plenty of gears available and they are strong. Our car has always had a mopar rear behind a SBC injected, a SBF injected, a flathead blown an injected on nitro, and now an injected hemi on 90%. JMO Lippy

 

Use the 9" ford rear, one you have it already & they're easier to get parts for . it's a proven rear, no sense hunting for vintage rears & parts for those rears, just to make the "have nots" happy that your period correct. your not using an original car anyway it's a modern chassis with old influence.

as a racer of these for a long time heres some advise, take your drawings and idea to a local track or divisioanl office and show them to a NHRA tech inspector (not the dork at the track that they call the Tech guy) ask him for his input on how to build it or what to change ect. otherwise you could waste your time building somethng that you won't be able to play
with later.

just my $ .02

paul

 

Wow.

 

Think the Dragmaster frames fail as well,,Didn't Kerry's

 

I like them too. I may, someday. I really like the TE-440 style. Plus, I've already bought four sets of plans. And lastly, I've always tried to the different thing, not the cookie cutter norm. The Dragmaster has already been redone. Looks good too! Maybe my next one. Because I'll need something to race against!

Yes and no. I have a 2008 rulebook, but that has loose specs for under 7.50. But, I do have the SFI spec book for 2.2B, which is for Nostalgia Top Fuel. In the next few weeks I'll be ordering the spec book for SFI 2.6 which is the complete 7.5 and slower version. I really like the NTF one I got, it has lots of different versions for the same spec.

Right on! You read my mind. Sometimes I new to steer away from my ideas for what's smart. I mean, I DO have a 9" housing already. Also, went I figure out more things and I get my SFI book, I was going to make up my own blueprints and call & email Bob Blackwell in Kansas City to see what I can do.

I only plan to run a max of 7.50 with it. You can run mild steel up to 7.50. NHRA Hertiage/Goodguys has a Nostalgia Eliminator 1 - 7.50 class and NPCA has a PRO COMP 2 - 7.50 class. I'm shooting for those.

A buddy has a injected 427 BBC and 'glide that I'd probably use for the shake down runs. Dad has a injected nitro 388 SBC that need to be put together, made I can sweet talk him on that one! Mean while, I'd be putting together a blown alky SBC and 'glide the final engine. If all goes well, maybe after the shake down runs, I'd use that car for jigging and have one built out of chrome moly.

 

They don't have to. I made mine so the rear axle slides up in a saddle. The inspector said that the bottom frame rail needs to be continuous. If you make some space so the axle housing can be slid out of the side you'd be in business.

If you have the SFI books and pay attention to them you should be ok on the legal side. I agree with the other guys that the chassis research style will be tough to make legal and not look like crap.

I know most of you have seen this but here's a pic of what I'm working on. It looks a lot better since I got the Hurst pie crusts on it but it appears that I made the rear axle a bit to wide. Sorry I don't have current pics.

 

I really don't think the six point cage and mild steel are the big issues here. You will still need to meet the rest of the chassis requirements for the entire drivers compartment area.
Not to mention, looking to run those numbers in a short wheelbase frame is gonna take alot more than most would think.
By time you get done meeting tech requirements, it won't really look like an old car. At best it would look like an old chassis modified to meet tech.
I wish you the absolute best luck in the build, but don't think it is very realistic.

Remember, NHRA didn't make them go to longer wheel bases etc... It was done to make the cars able to reach higher speeds and be able to handle. Hell, NHRA didn't even tell them to go to the rear engine design. It was the racers (Garlits in particular) who made the design happen. Must be a reason...

 

Aw c'mon Joe, it's easy. All ya do is throw a big engine in it and run 7.50! LOL.

 

Well, I do crew on a Nostalgia Top Fuel car on the weeks! Maybe I could borrow the spare!!!

 

I think the hard part, even when building a "new", old car, is more than just the updates. Updates like a 5 or 6 point roll cage, helmet bars, kidney bars, can all be added. But, when the upper frame bar has to be a continuous piece, that rules out an old chassis being updated. And, a lot of the older cars had the engine low in the chassis, so the oil pan was below the lower rail, a no-no. I really do wish someone would build a shorter wheelbase, mild steel, current updates car, but based on older designs. This is what Kerry did, and they failed him. I like the TE-440 style, skid bar roll cage also. And, I think for lower classes and brackets, as long as they pass a BASIC SAFETY tech inspection, they should let them run. I'll bet a lot of cars would come out of hiding if that were to happen. But, what do I know? Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

Didn't Garlits go to rear engine because he had that transmission explode and lost half his foot?

Regards,

Rev. D.

 

The chassis has to be a minimum of three inches off the ground. From twelve inches behind the front axle centerline, and further back, it can be only two inches from the ground. The oil pan and exhaust are not counted.

I think it was a clutch explosion, possibly a reverser. That where running slider clutches then. They would heat-up, breakdown, and then self disstruck. That's how Mike Sorokin (The Surfer's) was killed, as were many others!

 

Looks awesome to me. I ain't no tech official so I'd be nosedeep in books.

Not to get too far off, but, what's the word on that coupe next to your digger Kerry? Love that stance!

 

Justin, have you been talking to Randy Baker?? Who's car do you crew on? Your not on that car with Bru are you? Lippy

 

Ya yes, good ol' Rapid Randy! He's a great shit!! Eric is crewing for Dan Russell's Nitermare fueler. Randy is wheelin' Danny Miller's flopper. And I'm crewin' on Dale Suhr's Orange Crate fueler, which is my avitar. I have more pictures on my profile.

How are you lucky enough to know Mr. Rapid?

 

I know a lot of people. I have known Rapid the ride stealer for a long time. Ask Rapid when you see him if he's hit any trash cans lately. When He asks how you knew,. Just say Lippy told me. I'll pm ya. Lippy

 

Justin you may wanna check this link out

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=230419&highlight=dragster+frame

 

Yep, I saw that one. It's on my save list. Thanks!

 

Ok, so 9" Ford it is.

Now, motor.

#2 - I'm wanting to build a blown alky SBC, big inch - big bore/stroker, stock iron block and heads. Should I use a 350 block, or a 400? Also, which early model heads?

 

small journal 327 bored to 4.06" and a 3.75 or 4" stroker crank, thats one combo they could do in the mid 60's

My '64 M/T catalog has a 4" stroker crank

 

Ok.

#3 - Wheelbase. I'm thinking 1960 here. So, would 120"-125" be longer then what was run then?