I have been saving this article that says to soak your new chrome in a baking soda and water bath for a few day to get all that acid out. Now I just got my 34 ford windshield frame home from the chrome shop and want make sure you guys think this is a good idea. After I rinse and dry It I plan to fill the inside with paint to coat inside.I have seen so many two and three year old frames rotting and bubbling through the chrome that I want to try something. So what do you guy think. The grill is still at chrome shop it is nexted. Darrell
I gotta admit I have never heard of anything like this before. The plater would normally place the parts in a rinse bath between each plating bath. The finished part should have a layer of plate on all exposed surfaces that "see" the sacrifical anode. However, inside a hollow area may not get much. I assume that is what you are concerned with? If so, I can't see where the Baking Soda will hurt it at all. You may want to do that a few times though, as the Baking Soda will react with any acid residue pretty rapidly and may need a "second coat". If you catch my drift. Good Luck!
i'm not sure if it would work or not..or cause damage but i agree with fordcpe on new chrome on old windshield frames .after a couple years they all seam to rot out , even if the frame was solid. i always figured it was the acids from chroming causing it. the frame is hollow , so some acid must be getting inside. something could or should be done to prevent this , but i have no answers
I keep hearing it's 'you get what you pay for', that also depends on a lot of factors. I have never heard of this.
i have heard of this , and had it happened to me...a nice , solid original `35/`36 windshield frame rotted out 2-3 years after chroming . inspection showed it was from the inside out
iwas told that you should not chrome steering linkage parts namely tubing stuff that acids remain inside tubing causing failure tho every dragster had chromed parts?...the original long rear 4 ladder bars on my A failed&where badly rusted in side acids s/b nutraulized by the chrome shop ?? anyone working in chrome shop please respond addon:did search found word iwas told embrittlement was the main cause to weaken parts chromed<
Baking soda will result in a neutral ph if put in water with a high acid content. Here is the name of an expert that works with baking soda as a blasting cleaning material. Lanny Porter; E-mail nutechservice@alltel.net, good guy he can answer your question.
maybe drill some small holes in an unseen place so the water/baking soda can get in and flush out the acid?
i wouldn't want water any where near the inside of my parts metal soaking in water always sounds like a bad idea to me
the acid eating away from the inside is not a good option either. maybe after flushing something could be injected inside to seal it up...or spray in some wd-40?
Yes I plan to coat the inside with paint fill it up and then let the extra run out and dry before I put together. The water should not hurt it they rinse this stuff with water after they plate it.Darrell
I recommend coating the inside with Waxoyl http://www.roversnorth.com/waxoyl/ the british guys use it in there chassis, along with anything else they can coat.
no , i didn't know that there were brass windshield frames on some cars. the frame he was talking about is made of steel
I acutally acquired some waxoyl about 20 years ago. is there anybody out that that has long terms experience with it? like - you remember that rusty jones stuff. it trapped moisture and rotted out cars much more wuickly than if nothing had been done at all. just asking -90% Jimmy
The gentleman that repops the model A windshiled frames told me to soak a newly plated frame in warm (180 degree) water with baking soda in it to neutralize the acid. I think I would do it a couple of times just to be certain that all of the acid was removed. Coating the inside is a great idea too. I have seen new repops rust out is short order so the platers are not getting all of the acid out with their rinses between plates.
Yeah I know you're talking steel but FWIW those Pilot ones are a straight replacement for 35-6 if you can find one.
After you've dipped the frame in a baking soda solution and rinsed, flush it out with alcohol or acetone. Both will absorb the water. Blow it dry with an air hose. Once it's dry, fill it with expanding foam. The trick is to keep air away from the raw steel. No air, no oxygen, no rust...
I would be afraid that the foam would spread the frame apart when it expands, also a friend of mine was doing some rust repair for a guy a few years back, 30s ford? were someone had sprayed the foam in the area over the windshield, he wound up replacing it with another roof section because the rust was so bad.But who knows, all cases are different. I hate rust with a passion.
Home Depot/Lowes sells low expansion foam. They have 2 types of foam...one is that nasty crap that sticks to EVEWRYthing and expands like crazy, and the other is the low expansion stuff that winds up looking like styrofoam. OR just fill it full of paint and then drain it...
I would think twice before shooting foam in there. I was a VW mechanic for 25 years. Along about 1968, VW started putting foam in the roof and behind the rear windows to act as a sound deadener. Virtually every 68 or later car began to have rust thru wherever the foam had been applied. Not so, the earlier cars.
Here in the UK a lot of salt gets put on the roads through the winter, Waxoyl definately reduces the effects of salt corrosion, But the tin worm is difficult to stop completely, Even with Waxoyl treatment I have still had the bottom fall out of doors after a number of years. Chromic acid would definately eat through the pillars if left, it only takes a pin hole for it to find it's way in, best bet is drill a reasonable sized hole before chroming so the plater has a chance to wash the stuff out, then when you get them back fill them to the top with paint and then just pour the paint back out leaving the inside well coated. Cheap household oil based gloss seems to work pretty well for this if it's thined fairly well.
I think I will go with the baking soda and water rinse a few times and then some rustolem paint inside full then let it run out and dry before assembly.Darrell
I was told to use the baking soda on my newly plated 32 windshield frame.I thought it wasn't necessary. About 2 years later my solid beautiful chrome windshield frame started bubbling and rusting out.Wish I had listened to my friend.I say do it, it is necessary.
Try this stuff they use on high end steel bike frames. It works. http://www.competitivecyclist.com/road-bikes/accessories/jp-weigle/lubricants.359.html
Good subject. The acid that is doing the damage is muriatic acid. It will continue to eat steel no matter what coating,foam or what ever is put on top,it doesn't need oxygen or moisture containing oxygen to damage steel. So,soda is the best way to remove it and thus prevent it eating away your parts. 50/50 is normal concentration but try using a PH meter (garden shops sell them and swimming pool shops too i think ) so you can guage what the level of acidity is etc. Once the parts have soaked in B/soda, flush and dry with methylated sprits to completely remove any trace of water then coat the inside with POR15 to seal them. I do the underside of chrome bumpers this way to prevent future problems .Not so much as rust,but the lifting of the chrome which is a lot worse!
Just finished flushing out the crap from the frame it was full of this brownish yellow stuff. First I sprayed hot water in it thats when the stuff came out they blew air through it.Then put it in the baking soda and water a bunch of times it is hard as the frame is double metal on the front side and they are tight together.I think maybe brake kleen after to get the stuff out then rust paint from a spray can with a straw add on it to get in the tight frame.It is still soaking now. Darrell
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