Well I can barely fart when strapped in the other rail. No wiggle room. Yes we are all aware to keep our head pressed against the helmut pad. For me it is easy. i 'm just stiff with fear! I will probably fab the seat from aluminum. I made the other one and am happy with it. My wife made the blue denim pleated upholstery. I hope she will do me another. I got a matched pair of bike wheels today of some kind of dirt bikes. two the same with .134" spokes which makes them NHRA acceptable. With a little machining I cansee them working very well. better than i had planned. I believe I will be able to fit a large inner bearing and use the standad outer one. I have no idea what they are off of. They are 1.85X17 D&D wheels. Look like rears with the sprocket removed. Alloy rims. The bike salvage guy called them project wheels and charged me $20 each. I got to pick them out. Both are identical. He had 100s of wheels. You biker guys probably know what I have. They had drum brakes. One still has its brake mech. I wont be using it though. And i will have to find some road tires instead of knobbies. Here they are just sitting there as i dream.
Was shopping for tires for an old Suzuki streetbike I have today. Got to studying load ratings to which I'd never paid any attention. Then thinking about dragsters came up with that surely the tire is the fail point so the wheels themselves must have a much greater load capacity than the tire. What do you project the "as-raced" front axle weight of your car to be?
250 pounds at tops. I doubt it will be that even. I am sorry but your question confuses me. People have been using motorcycle wheels and tires on dragsters for over 50 years. The rule book cleary states it is permitted in this type of car. Don
OH OK. Today i spent taking these wheels apart. They are not designed to be serviced bearing wise but they are getting it anyway. bearings are standard indstrial bearngs. Numbers I am familiar with and easily purchased. Axle dia is 17 MM I did a little reseach and have come up with a good alternative I think which will provide me with a larger inside bearing ID but will still fit the wheel. I will have to make a new set of bearing spacers in the lathe but I have already started. Since I am making the spindle assemblies anyway I can make the stub to fit my new bearing choice. So far anyway it looks good. Researched tires . It has 4.10 X17 (Kendra) offroad on it. I need a road tire with a speed rating. I am not at all familiar with motorcycle tires so any info on tire choice would be welcomed. (jgsxr)They will have to run tubes. I think this is going to work out. Don PS A friend phoned just now. Has a set of 17 dragster front tires . He said come and git them (free). I didnt know 17 inch was commonly used. Unless they are real good I will just use them for rollers and replace them new but it will give me an idea anyway.
Hi Don, I've been following your project and can hardly wait to see her run. I offer the following as an aid in your tire search and not to promote any business. http://www.americanmototire.com/catalog/index.php?osCsid=7dc235a55a2fcbb5b0553963665cd8c0 Eric
Thanks Eric I wll have a look and see what i can learn. Meanwhile i picked up the dragster front tires this afternoon. A buddy had bought new for his RED and gave me his old ones. they are a long long way from beat. I guess he just wanted new ones. They are Goodyear Eagle Frontrunners and are still supple even. I even got one tube. I have to admit I had no idea newer dragsters normally ran 17 inch front tires. I was at the bike salvage yard going "Those are too tall, those too small, these look about right." Don
Don: Should have looked alng the wall of your shop. The Dragster wheel that I use for checking Star Line Roll out is sitting right there!!
Duh! Never thought of it! Don BTW I am fiddling in beautiful Downtown Picton tomorow at 130 . Somewhere on Elizabeth street. Community living centre or something. Will be here all morning though.
I came up with a new set of wheel bearings. outer is stock and is a 6203 often found in motors alternators etc but it is what was in there wheels. It has a 11/16 hole so the outer end of the spindle stub will be that size. The innner larger bearing will now be just slightly under an inch and is a 6005 found in HD electric motors. The small one is rated at over 800 pounds load and the big one is rated at over 1100 pounds load. Far exceeding any load they will get in this use. They are both rated at max RPM of 16000. Also far above what I will be asking. I know it is not normal to use these bearings but as you can easliyl see they are more than up to the job with safety room to spare. They nare the same style found in the dirt bike wheels and those as some know take a huge beating. I have to make some new spacers but i have a old one to work from and will make them exactly the same length (just bigger at one end. ) I hope to start machining the axle stubs tomorrow. If that happens I will post more photos. Don
Using a 1 inch bolt for metal I started machining Aan axle stub today. This will be a scrap piece as i know fo experience that after i make one I will realize some changes need to be done. So this one from the obolt is a throw away. Still it will give me a good idea. I have the inner section for the large bearing done. Tomorrow i will do the other end. Also worked on the spacers today. Don
I spent sometime this afternoon machining a sample spindle stub from a 1 inch bolt. I used a 5 inch bolt for this sampler but will need a 6 inch for the final versions. I used the recently converted lathe . Tis amazing what long blue riibbons of steel you can chew of with this machine. Don
I remade one of the stubs today. I used TSC tractor 1 inch draw bolts for cores. They are extremely tough which is what i wanted. One stub is shown with the new bearings I choose to mount the motorcycle 17 wheels. Inner is much bigger as far as shaft size goes and is just shy of an inch. Outer is stock motorcycle bearing but is a bearing many of us are familiar with as it is a 6203. Inner is a 6005. This gives a more conventional style spindle. Also shown is the new spacer. it isnt welded yet but will be. I have the old stock spacer that was in the wheels when I bought them. i am copying the length exactly. I have yet to thread the stub for a nut. (Will be 5/8 inch thread.) The short stub on the large end of the stub fits through the fabricated spindle and is secured with a cross pin for absolute saftey then the whole deal will be welded to the spindle asssembly. I think these spindles are at least as strong as many new small cars. The weight the will carry is not much so they are probably more than strong enough for the job. I have really enjoyed making this stuff. Don
My brother shot this photo of me tigging the axle stub to the fabbed spindle assembly. In the next shot after making the motor mount brackets we put it together for a look. The Jag Dragster struggles to its feet like a newborn calf. Don
Had the rail up on its springs today. They are too stiff so i have to rework them tomorrow. No bounce. They currently have three leaves. i will try one and one severly ground second leaf. BTW had a pal jump on the front axle several times to see if the spindles flexed at all. They did not. I have a few mods to do to get everything where I want but it is coming along nicely. With the severe height of the Jag motor i could have made it longer for a better look but twill be ok. Tried out the cockpit as well. Comfy but crowded. I am 28 inches at the shoulder , . it isnt. Don
OOPS!!!!! SOmetimes you get a thought but forget. Yesterday I was thinking that the front end is just tacked together at the top with a couple of tig welds.Underneath there is nothing. I had intended on the final design to have a couple of small safety straps bridging the joint as well as a full weld, just in case as the load is applied rotationally to the front tube. I thought as I woke up yseterday morning i should put a couple of tack welds on the bottom of the tube before we put the weight on it just to be sure it wouldnt roate .I FORGOT! When we got the whole rail, engne and trans and all up on its front wheels supporting all the weight it looked great. We decided first to test the axle for flex and I watched while Bill jumped up and down on it to see of there was any discernable flex. None the i could detect. The wheels remained absolutley still. Then we moved on the springs. "Jump on there and see if those springs have any bounce" i said. Bill did and jumped a few times. Nothig , too stiff as i said before. We tried harder and you know what happend. The front tube rotated around and the whole deal fell to the floor. Bill was shocked . i had to smile. I had thought about this in the morning but had forgot as things were going too well. I will take it all apart and make the friction shocks as well while i have it off so when I weld it on again i can finish weld it and be done. No harm done but it was kinda dumb to be jumping on it with just two tack welds at the top . Sometimes i wonder about me. Don
Finished cutting the sprocket mounts off the wheels today. Installed the bearinngs and set the whole deal up. I tacked the cross tube back on the frame, a bit more substancially this time but I it will not get weight till it is welded underneath. I didnt like how high it sat before so i dismantled the springs flipped them over and reassembled them in the proper stack for this application uppside down. It actually looks pretty good. I might need to play with the arch a bit more but it is certainly on the right track. This is a long process. Sometimes I put something together and then think about it for awhile. That is how I came up with the reversed spring thing. I have to thread the spindle stubs (5/8ths fine if possible) I have to finsh the inside bearing spacers and pretty up the wheels before mounting the Dragster Goodyear Front runners. There is a lot to do but I plug away a job at a time. I actually enjoy this believe it or not. Don
Made the spacers today for between the bearings. Used my two favorite tools. The scratch tig welder and my lathe. Also got a phone call from my local wreckers. Got a 68 Chrysler 8 3/4 diff complete. Brace yourselves. This rear end narrowing is gonna be different. Don
I installed the bearing spacers. I had to open them up slightly insde so the wheel would go all the way on. It was minor though so didnt take long. Inside the Motorcycle wheels were three tabs sticking out originally used to centre the much smaller stock spacer. Using my die grinder I had to remove them. It took about 2 minutes per wheel. That is done. I may make a Hubcap that bolts on for these wheels to cover the open brake drum. If i do you can rest assured it will say JAGUAR on it. I threaded the spindle stubs today , 5/8th NF. I had one 5/8 castlated nut in my tool box but need another. Tomorrow i plan to finish the spindles completely or at least as close as I can get to that tomorrow. Don
Looks good, been watching your progress. Hate the threads that get all mucked up with nothing but "looks good" responses so I don't post unless I have something to say. You said you bent the axle to get the proper kingpin inclination angle. Then did you fixture the spindle stub in some way to get it welded on right? Is 0* camber what you're shooting for?
I want about a 1/4 pos if possible. When fabbing I have learned to leave a methd of errror correction as even the best plans sometimes get distored during welding. etc. If I get it done tomorrow i will show you what i did in this case to allow for minor error correction. I built the spinde assembly so with the camber built in so i could just flush mount the spindle stub without worrry. One pulled during welding. i dont know why as the other did not.I stopped and corrected it best i could. One side is about perfect the other is slightly and ever so slightly neg but like i said i left a contingincy plan for correcting it. As for fabbing the axle straight then bending in the KPI i think i can safely say I would do that again. It was much easier to get right then trying to weld the boss in on a predetermined angle like I did with the Sr Dragster and the Hemi Jeep. I am feeling ok with is set up. I was nervous about strength but now realize it is way stronger than it will see in stress.. I am willing to do whatever it takes to get it right. I am very curious about such things and find this extremely interesting work. I am more than pleased with my wire wheels and their conversion. I thought that would be harder. Don
I worked at the final set up a bit today but had a nagging headache so i quit early. I was also given a steering box today for a 53 Ford Truck. It will work fine I believe. Don
Busy day. I worked on the spindles today making short bosses from 1 1/4 tubing to strengthen and adjust location slightly. During welding i ran out of Argon so that job is on hold. I also made a set of spindle buts from a set of ball joint castlated nuts . I shortened them to a more normal length for spindle nuts and located and drilled the cotter pin holes. I cut off the excess threads and desssed it slightly. i then turned to the 53 Ford steering box removing the uncracked steering wheel for return to the man who donated the box to me and I removed the colum and shifter assembly complete with an old chrome signal light switch and donated that to a pal who is on a vintage build. The box will work well and will be mounted on the rhs and the pitman shaft will be straight down out the botttom . I will have to extend it about 1 foot.There is enough steering shaft to go from the box to the wheel with pobably only one ujoint needed. Setup will be similar to the Hemi Jeep steering which works very well. Why a 53 Ford truck box? Cause it was free. I then turned to the rear end and removed the backing plates and axles. I dont need the backing plates for this build so I am taking them to Mike for his vintage Dragster project. They are decent sized shoes and drums and will be more than enough on his hemi rail. I am now on the hunt for a set of four wheel drive spindle assemblies from the ball joint out. This narrowing is going to be different and will be a full floater. Once i get the welding gas i will take pics of the spindle assemblies and more. Don Measured the rear end for the chop as well. Stubs will be 32 inches end to end . Found the centre of the rear end and then measured 16 inches both ways from that point. Double checked with the Sr dragster for measuremnts.
Today i chopped the diff making sure the pinion is the centre in the chassis. This leaves one axle longer thanthe other but in a rail is the way to go. I went to the wreckers searching for early Chev or ford (70s or so) 4 wheel drive front spindles with disc brakes. I need a big one as I need to beable to run a 1.4: dia axle through the cente with no trouble. I had no luck. all the old stuff is gone. Though maybe a Exporer set up would work but it is just a hair to small. I would like to to do it this way but I have to be able to find the stuff I need. But tomorrow is another day. Don Sorry about the too bright sunlight (white in photo. If you enlarge though you can see it all. Don
Our first race is this weekend so i had to move the half built Jag/Drag chassis out ofthe way to get the Sr dragster out. i am charging the betery and refilling the rad after a long rest. If all goes well I will be super inspired next week after feeling the wind in my face one more time. Don BTW For a while I had the rail sitting on its wire wheeels this morning. With the revamped spring set up things are much more lively.
With Drag weekend here for the new season I was busy on a pals heads getting them ready. Meanwhile He (Bill Vilneff) moved everything around in my shop so we could service the senior dragster and get it outside. The weather was too cold for going racing but we had to go for a cruise. Bill looks thoughly at home crusing around my place in the rail. Normally Bill runs a real clean, strong 64 Chevelle done in gasser style sans bumbers and all. He looks pretty comfy here though and had trouble keeping his big smile hid. A trained welder and a licensed mechanic I am betting there will be an old school rail in Bills future before long. His of course will be a chev six but that is ok. Probably a 250 . He took two cruises in the rail today. Now that it is ready I can get back to the new Jag rail Monday. Don
Spring fever. Here is video of Bill driving the Sr Dragster for the first time. This is its first time running since it was put away in the fall. http://www.dropshots.com/Dolmetsch#date/2010-04-17/18:45:13 Don
No, I am in coast right now. One of the wheels I did for the front end was not satisfactory. A bike guy who was helping me mount the tires showed me. I got another and worked yesterday morning modifyiing it for front axle use. Funny how the first one took a day and now it takes about 15 minutes . Meanwhile i took the Sr dragster to Shannonville last night for test and tune. Just left it in drive and had a few fun passes. There were 7 FEDs there plus mine. In fact I ran first a supercharged FED . An absolutly beautiful car of 1970s style. Severely outclassed though i was in the Sr dragster i did enjoy 2 FEDs running side by side. Next run was against a 69 Chevelle . Last run was against a 33 Willys gasser. Had an older racer try to buy the Sr dragster but it is not for sale. Like me he just wanted something to keep his hand in in his 60s without costing a fortune and something safe. Anyway it was a fun night. Don
I didnt do anything major but I worked on the Fed today mostly on the front end. Yesterday i put a Bee under the bonnet of the guy bending my roll bar hoops. Things are moving again. Don
The Jalopy Journal
