Featured Hot Rods New guy; Model A Rake and Mechanical Brakes

Basic design is same as Offenhauser shocks sold by Speedway, but there are some differences, which are improvements i hope... Offenhauser is for front, mine has correct lenght arms for rear too. Mine include shock link balls. Mine are not symmetric, which gives arm more movement.


Friction pads are Offenhauser replacement ( ones https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Replacement-Friction-Pads-for-Offenhauser-Friction-Shocks,24984.html ) and shock link balls are from Mikes ( https://www.mikes-afordable.com/product/A4024.html. ) Disc springs are stainless ones from local spring shop. For other parts, i made drawings and ordered from local sheet metal shop.

And they do mount to original shock mount holes. The "not for stock body applications" note on Mikes add is just because extra spacer have to be made to clear inner fender at rear. Personally i would say that Mikes do not make addvertising too good, cause that note might loose some deals for guys with original body A.

 

Thanks Latt,
I was thinking the rear bracket may be the reason for the disclaimer.
A quick question on adjustment. How do you determine they are equal? I would think an inch pound torque wrench? Is there a suggested torque? I'm thinking the front tighter than the rear?
This is definitely an attractive option. Not only do they look very cool they are less than the cost of one OEM lever shock.
One another note. On your photo of the shocks I couldn't help but notice what appears to be a modified 30-31 Model A crossmember in the background.
If you note in my previous post I'm currently pondering modifying my crossmember.. Mine had a plate welded on top and it appears this was reinforcement due to cracks around the motor mount holes. I need to replace that section anyway and was thinking about raising it a bit for additional drop and using '28-29 squared off u-bolts and skipping that top plate. Are they the u-bolts on that?
Pretty much what you had pictured.
What I would really like to do is get enough drop and avoid the need for a reverse eye spring.
Do you have any photos of the crossmember modification in progress?

Thanks,
robj
P.S. The more I think about it I think I am going to go for a set of your shocks.
P.P.S "Personally i would say that Mikes do not make advertising too good,"
I agree, they could explain that a little better.

 

There ain't any scientific adjustment for the shocks. My addvice is to adjust them with dog bones uninstalled, moving lever by arm so that there is resistance but still able move it. Then test drive and tighten if needed. Those leaf springs have pretty much friction by them selves, which dampens movement, so shocks don't have to be too tight. I'm not sure if i succeed, but i tried include my instructions to this message.

That is the way i did adjust them on my T-A-B speedster, and i don't think it could be much better. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/t-a-b-project.1315428/

 

And for the cross member on my 28 tudor, if i recall right it is about same dimensions as original. I only fixed old cracks and reinforcements, cutting top section away and weld new part cutted from retangular thick wall tubing in place. Mayby placed it about 1/2 inch higher, really can't remember, it was more than 20 years ago.

Anyway i found a pic of crossmember before fixing and how my tudor standed with 3 leafs removed and eyes reversed, both front and rear springs. Tires were 6.70-15 at front and L78-15 rear.

 

that is badd ass everything right there..