Well guys I guess I'm keeping the stock 4 banger...as a complete S10 T5 setup out of an A just popped up on Craigslist couple hundred miles away. I'm going to get it tomorrow. Also ordered a "like new" Scalded Dog intake and 97 off ebay because I don't want to throw any time or money into the stocker. Looks like the head choice is between Snyders 6:1 iron head and Lion Speed 3 cast iron head (6.5:1)? Most likely get it running with the intake and carb. and drive it around some before tearing into the trans/cam/head. Swap meet coming up Sunday...
Is your T-5 set up open drive line or did it keep the torque tube? Glad you decided to keep the A engine.
Thanks, I will keep updating. The setup comes with open driveline. Have to figure out how to support the diff. without the torque tube??
That would be a Torque Arm. All that needs to be is a stand-in for the torque tube. Usually they're bolted to the center section and run up to a pivot point near the end of the trans and u joint. Here is a thread on them. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...ue-arm-rear-suspension-picture-thread.511716/ Personally, I'd get a set of V8 rear radius rods as well. I think the 40ish bones should be good and long enough to reach to the general vicinity of your U joint at the trans. You'll need to add a bracket tied to your frame somehow for them to attach to. Model A rear rods are VERY lightweight whereas the later ones have more heft.
Do some searching here on "Torque Arm" as well, there are a lot of them in use beyond what that thread catches. Another option would be to go for a ladder bar setup, but that would require tabbing on the rear end in addition to whatever crossmember work that the open drive conversion will necessitate (since your radius rods attach to the TT, they will need somewhere else to attach to).
Got the intake and carb on. Still need to set up the linkage but started right up and runs pretty good. Motor seems sound so that is good news! Seems the stock brake linkage needs some moding for the T5? Lost my link to AA bellhousing - T5 adapter? Anyway I don't want to waste time and money screwing with them so looking at brakes. Looks like my only choice (not keeping stock or going to 39-48 hyd) that I can keep the stock wire wheels are Lincoln type repos?? I would really like disc on the front?? Would like some more options.... Thanks
Just get the mechanicals working well. Then collect all the parts you need for the brakes or even build a complete front end w dropped axle, round backs, and lincoln brakes then slide it under. I had all the dreams of these mods on my car but always wanted to keep it driveable. So I basically drove it stock the first summer then lowered it for this summer and then got hooked on a trog build. Even stock you will have plenty of smiles per hour
Well got it running driving around some and the motor isn't sound. Something broke, guessing at least a piston ring but likely a piston. Blew the oil cap off, smoked like crazy and got a bad rattle. Towed it home. Now what???? Rebuild or Swap??? Sell it??
I have restored and driven 2 model A's. They are great at 45 mph. If you want to drive faster and enjoy it you need to do a lot of upgrading until you dont have a model A anymore. Tune it up , check over all the suspension and brakes and drive it until you can decide what you want. Join the local model A club.
Sucks about the engine I'm going with a t5, downdraft 97, (B) head a mechanical advanced dizzy and an open drive banjo on mine with early juice brakes hope to drive the wheels off it as soon as I get it done. If mine goes I think I'll get a short block from these guys 2200 for an insert bearing a motor. Should hold up better to the highway cruising and higher compression head. www.antiqueenginerebuilding.com I should note I know nothing about this company I just came across it the other day. I'm gona search around and look for reviews if/when I get something like that done. Make sure to post up pics when you tear it down
Now that you've gotten 5X more info than you need- I've been driving this roadster for 4 years- -at top speed (45) with bias ply tires on a road with any kind of crown, it keeps you busy ( it's kind of like piloting a boat). You CAN get 55-60 out of them without too much trouble ( 2 spd rear or T-5), but without other suspension upgrades it's kinda shakey. That's a cool rig as is- keep that, and build a Hot Rod to go fast in! ( and scare the crap out of yourself!)
Sorry the engine is broken - hope you fix it, that is a nice old rig - you are a brave man if you drove that on Hwy 1 or Hwy 17 - I lived in Felton/Scotts Valley a couple years and know those highways and texting commuters
Sell it before you screw it up any more than you already have, somebody out there would love to have it just as it is, only a little more reliable. Buy yourself a hot rod, it was what you really wanted in the first place. Good Luck.
Yes, I want/need to drive 1 and 17 (there are no practical back-roads for much of these) and through the bay area. They are not for the faint of heart with crazy tourist and commuter traffic. Going 45 over 17 is a great way to get run over by commuters and poor brakes on 1 will get ya into the back/side of a sudden stopping/turning tourist or even off the cliff. Exactly the reason for more power, speed and brakes. While I do like some hot rods, the wife hates them! So I need/want to turn this thing, she thinks its cute, into a reliable driver. It is why I bought it. I know all bout the "keep it stock" mentality, I respect that, but I don't have it. I am interested in making the running gear, suspension and brakes better. I would call it a resto-mod.... Pretty much what I do with all my stuff (I even put an electric motor and bigger brakes on my bicycle). Anyway, now with the blown motor I am really second guessing myself about keeping the stock motor, even if it is numbers matching. My brother has a rebuilt 4.3 v6 that's been sitting in his shop for a long time he wants to give me for it (I would do an auto trans ,350/200r/700r, with it) but I think it would look too out of place and may be too much for the stock frame. I like the idea of at least keeping a 4 banger and stick. I'm thinking and iron duke with t5 and even S10/jeep/bronco rear end may be a more practical way to go for about the same price as building the stocker and putting open driveline and brakes on the weak stock banjo?? Looking for options? Thanks!!
You can build a good running banger...it may not be a late model hemi, but it damn sure can get you a ticket if you dont pay attention. I havent dino'd mine but im guessing 70-75 hp as is now. Build a banger and have fun with it. Or go all the way and build a high end street rod. Im guessing you will like the banger and the attention you get when your tooling about.
i dont know, its 85 years old original engine and still going strong, starts instantly, accelerates and idles smoothly. I dont drive it hard, but i dont really baby it...drive it like any other car. not running to much ignition advance so im not to worried about the crank. I understand its not a high revving, multi valve fuel injected street burner, so i dont drive it like that, but again i drive within its limits and it performs well. Havent taken it on any long distance drives, but thats more because i prefer the comfort of my 2014 F150. but have driven locally and on many 100 deg. plus days with no concerns or issues. In fact if I ever break this one, ill look for another motor just like it as a replacement.
Agree with everything this guy said... Was in the same boat as you with a '29. Got it reliable and it was about a 65 mph car with snyders head, FSI ignition (great product), cast headers, down draft manifold and 94 Holley carb. Had bias ply rubber (16" steelies) and they performed fine. Good luck with the project.
Well ya guys aren't gonna like it but I think I've landed back on a 2.5 tech4 2.5 engine, T5 and rear end from a '91 S10 for my Model A. Low buck and maybe fool few folks into thinking it's an overhead kit on a stocker (no I won't try and pass it off). I just can't see near $5K for an engine rebuild to end up with less performance and reliability. Anyway want to keep it looking sort'a old school. Hope to ditch the serpentine belts and ecm. Need to adapt carb. to stock manifold because of course no one makes a manifold. As much as I would like to run the 97 I have, the cfm calculator says it should have somewhere around 200 cfm. Figure easiest and best performing would be a weber 32/36 type but not so kool looking? I can find normal v-belt set-ups of earlier set-ups but not sure about the water pump rotation and/or fitment?? Also there are HEI distributors off earlier ones but would love to find/adapt an old school looking one (I'm not spending $500 on a Mallory). Anyone got any Ideas?
Getting close to "on the road" with this project. Really went kind'a off the deep end with the suspension and steering but I hope it all makes a good driver. In back went to triangulated 4 link kit and QA1 14" coilovers on 7.5" S10 3.73 rear keeping the stock s10 drum brakes. Stock wheels are centered in fenders with 1.25" adapters/spacers. On the front have stock axle & spring with a 4 link kit, tube shock kit, after market spindles, bolt on drop steering arms (needed to modify to bring the tie rod/drag link back up inside 4 link bars), panhard rod and Vega steering box. Kept the stock column with levers and steering wheel (cut the box off, installed lower bearing and connected u-joints). Got the complete Boling Brothers Lincon front brake set-up including spindles on the front. Then a hyd brake and clutch peddle under floor kit. The 151 iron-duke engine and t5 trans were pretty easy. A couple of cross members and modifying of the stock engine mounts put the crank centered with the original crank hole but the lower firewall did need a little setback. Got an early electronic distributor with ford coil for the ignition and Weber 32/36 DEEV carburetor to get rid of all the electronic computer stuff. Got rid of all the serpentine belt junk on front with jeep double pulleys and early GM water pump (had to make a Alternator mount and swap the stock s10 one to double pulley). It cleaned up pretty good and it is all ford green. Doesn't look too out of place in my eyes. Biggest problem is the fan is just too low and got to run an electric one (I don't like that). Anyway, Just an update. I'll get some photos when it is running and rolling.
Be sure your wire wheels are supported at two levels (see http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/40-ford-wheels-on-a-model-a.750368/#post-8330045). You may need an adapter as well as your spacer if your spacer is just designed for a flat rim with 5 on 5 1/2. If you want to run a generator (for looks) the mount from a 1962-65 Chevy II 4 cylinder might work (that is what I am using). I think the same mount was used on the 6 cylinder but I am not sure. I like your choice of Ford green. Looking good! Charlie Stephens
Thanks! Yes, I got the wire wheel supports from Boling bros too. I'm gonna stick with the alternator; It is so unstock now as to not matter so much. Your 153 looks good!
Just a little update after over two years. I am still loving this thing! I really have done very little since getting it together. Did have roll bar and 3 point seat belts installed along with a taller windshield, fender spare and electric wipers. Built tail gate, lockable storage behind seat along with some fold up seats in the back and radial tires. It really is my daily driver as I sold my pickup. We do have the wife’s car for comfort and longer trips but I much prefer the A for most driving around. I have done many trips over the hill and a few 200+ mile trips. It will easily cruise 65 and get out of it own way, stop and handle pretty good. Don’t even get very wet in the rain. Now need to replace the delaminating planeling on the sides and have dairy graific to paint on. Some more recent photos;
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