Projects new member. watch me section my Desoto.

When I got my first glance of the hub puller, I thought it was for knock off wheels! PB Blaster might help dissolve the rust. Back off the puller and tap hub lightly back on. The BFH many have suggested works a lot of the time, but sometimes gentle tapping works better to get the obstruction on the spline cleared up. Great project you've got going!

 

It has a key and a nut.... No splines. They are just tighten on real tight..... A long time ago.

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Got a torch?

 

I used one of those pullers on an old Ford banjo rear end. Even with heat on the hub. I ended up pulling a couple lug nuts off the threads. After struggling with it for about a week. I ended up getting a special tool for those hubs.
Took about a minute each side to break them loose with the right tool.
They have a lip to pull on though. Doesn't look like yours have that.


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Or just change to a modern axle. 65-67 (or so) C body axle is a bolt in. Many others such as 71-3 Mustang fit with relocated spring perches.

 

I think Explorer 8.8, too.

 

I cannot find a picture with the bolts in, but here it is with the button head allen screws, and one bolt, with the head cut off, to mimic the locator pin found on the originals.


Oh, and mag lug nuts come in left hand thread, too: https://www.summitracing.com/search...ad-size/1-2-20-lh-in/lug-nut-seat-style/shank

So if you thread in left hand bolts from the back, you can run those.

 

His does not have the requisite lip that the Ford axle does. The puller he has is the right one.

I broke two of them (bless tool warranties) before I gave up and made the drum removable.

 

I kinda understand what you're telling me... I just have never ever ever done anything like this before. I have NO idea what im doing. I even had my big ass friend come over and smack on it... He only broke the other castle nut. The hub didnt budge at all. Can you maybe tell me exactly what im doing when I grind them down? Im sorry! But thank you. I took the tool off, I'll grab a photo of my hub for you.

 

Kroil is the best penetrating oil on the market, and worth the cost. I'll squirt some in the lug holes onto the axle if you can. If you have a large punch set it on the hub flange and give it a real good shot with a BFH. NOT around the key area! This should upset the taper and let more oil seep in, then put the puller on and see if it comes off. Bob

 

The four rivets that you see there hold the drum to the hub. The pin sticking out makes it easier to mount the wheel, as there are not any studs there to help you line it up.

The basic procedure is this:

Throw the lug bolts all in, just to keep it all aligned while you work.

Gently grind the head off of just on rivet. Try not to grind the drum too much, if at all.

Yours:


Take a drift or a punch and pound the remainder of the rivet inward (you will get it out later).
Take a 5/16"-18 (IIRC) tap, and tap that hole for threads. Put a button head allen screw in that hole.

What it looks like done:


Repeat that procedure for the remainder of the rivets.
Put some Vise Grips on the locating pin, and use them as something to pry against to pull the locating pin out. Tap that hole, too. Put a bolt in that one too.
Once you do that, you will have a drum that can be removed from the hub, easily.

Once that is done, you can unbolt the drum, and put bolts (LH and RH as appropriate) in the holes, from the back, sticking out. Then you have wheel studs. Once you are sure that they are the right length, and everything fits, put some red Loctite on those bolts, and let it harden up.

Then you can get LH and RH mag wheel lug nuts, and get rolling!

 

Here is roughly (as your's is a differet model) what it will look like with the drum off, and the hub face cleaned up:

 

Thank you for taking the time to tell me all this. I think I'm confused to what the rivits are holding in place? And what tapping and putting bolts in, does? Are those rivots whats stopping it from coming off?

 

I think the hub to axle taper is just a really good fit. That nut is a good size and the guy that put it together may have used a bar with a piece of pipe for leverage when it was tightened. WARNING: Years ago the shop I was working at left a wheel puller set up over night with a lot on tension on it. It popped off and traveled a lot further than you would think. NEVER get any part of your body in line with it, you don't know when it will pop or how fast it will travel. Just noticed you are keeping the axle nut on there, so the above safety note doesn't matter, but if the nut was off things could fly. Bob

 

Normally on these vehicles, the drum and hub are riveted together. They come off as one piece, or, at least they should.

You were, as I was, on the right track with that puller. It should have come off that way, hub and drum together.

I gave up on my job, and decided to find another way. That is when I came up with just removing the drum from the hub. On later model cars, there are no rear hubs, they are part of the axle shaft, and the drum just slips over the wheel studs and that round nubbin in the middle. My trick makes these drums removable, much like a later axle.

The rivets are not stopping you removing the drum and hub, with that puller. The magic of rust and tension are.

Drum, bolted on the hub:


Hub, with no drum bolted to it:


If you were to get your drum and hub off with the puller, it would look much like this:

 

This is just a cheat to get you access to the hubs , so you can get wheel studs (and brakes for service), in case the hubs won't budge.

 

Could the axle,hub and drum be removed from the rear end as an assy?
What holds the axle in? Possible to take the whole axle to a press and separate it there?

 

Have to remove the hub and drum to get to the bolts that hold the axle in.

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Not sure why the castle nut is breaking, it should be loose and not affected by pulling the hub off. I put studs in the front drums on my '39 Dodge since about half of the holes were stripped. Just drilled the stud holes out until they were slightly smaller than the new studs and pounded the new studs in. I used right hand threads on both sides.

 

Looking AWESOME friend.

 

How can you pull the hub off with the nut still on the axle?

 

You leave it on there, but turned out a fair amount, to keep the threads on the end of the axle shaft from mushrooming. Better to replace a castle nut (common hardware), than an axle shaft (not so common part).

 

Something strange about breaking castle nuts so much. I would take the nut off and give it a try but make sure you are not standing in front of it when you try removing it.

 

YES!!! Only takes 4 days of beating the crap out of it.

 

Good time to do the brakes

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Congrats!!

 

And the other side just fell right off. Man I'm tired of this car.

 

There is a reason why they don't make them like that anymore.

 

Hammer's too small....