Projects New Project: 1953 Oldsmobile

Edited with two removed diodes because they weren’t necessary.

 

Got it wired up and working!

I’m using neutral as park. Technically the same thing, right?


Reverse:


And drive:


You can kinda see it in the pictures, but while I was at it, I got the temp gauge working again.

Seriously, I’m enjoying the hell out of this detail work! What else should I look into doing?

 

Was the shift indicator in this car originally electrically activated? That's something I wouldn't have considered. Never worked on this kind of stuff on this kind of car but would have ***umed some kind cable or mchanical linkage. Is there some sort of solenoid or gear motor back there moving things around?

 

Here’s the back of the cluster when I was bench testing my relay setup.

I honestly have no idea how it was originally hooked up, but would love to know! The gear indicator doesn’t even make sense to me with what’s listed.

 

You mean the odd N-Dr-S-Lo-R markings on the indicator? That's because your car originally came with a HydraMatic trans. Between the later model trans and steering column you've got, I'm surprised you found such a relatively simple way to get the OE indicator working . . . sort of, kind of, at least better than no indicator at all. Does it light up as well?

Consult your owner's manual or search online to learn about the mysterious workings of the HydraMatic transmissions.

 

Yeah, I’ll have to look up the HydraMatic at some point. I know nothing about them.

Here’s what the gauges look like at night:


And for whoever wants to see the indicator in action, here’s an Instagram link for a video:

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CiOb_5sDLET/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

 

Sweet!

 

So, my guess is that gear indicator is basically just a volt meter. It looks like it behaves like a twitchy, undamped voltmeter to me. Inside, I'd bet you'd find a network of resistors functioning as a voltage divider of sorts, driving the volt meter type gauge. This gives the setup a discrete number of inputs that can given 12V from switches.

I gather you're just using the relay and diodes to remap the input logic in some fashion?

If it were me, I would do it differently. I'd find out which input causes the most deflection when 12V is applied. This is the input that basically byp***es most of the internal resistor network. You could hook up directly to that one, and use a variable resistor and a voltmeter to determine where each indication lies (in terms of volts applied to the "direct" input). Then you can build your own divider network based on the NSS outputs you have. You can dial the indication in perfectly, and you can damp it with a capacitor to eliminate some of the twitchy behavior.

 

Best I can figure, it’s just 3 electro magnets that pull the needle. And there doesn’t seem to be a way to keep the needle from wiggling so much initially. It sits firm once it’s settled, even while driving.

I used my spare cluster to bench test it to show how it works.





Here’s how I power it up to show each gear:






Since my neutral safety switch only had an output for the neutral and reverse, I used a regular ignition signal for drive. The relay was used to interrupt the ignition signal whenever reverse or neutral were used.

So the way I have it wired, and having a th400, the gear indicator would show Drive in 1,2, or 3 because there isn’t a signal from reverse or neutral to interrupt it.

 

Originally there was a switch on the engine side of the firewall connected to the shift linkage with multiple wire connections. The dash gauge that shows what gear you are in has a bunch of electro magnets in it that move the needle. This is from a 40 year memory of working on one. There are coils of wire wound around a metal core, in between each gear on the quadrant. I believe it energizes one on each side of the gear selected to move the needle to center between them. I could be wrong but that's how I remember it.

 

Ok, probably getting sick of my posts now, but need help again.

My temp gauge works, but reads hot shortly after starting the car. From what I understand, a 53 Olds was 12+ originally. I thought maybe I just needed to adapt to 6+, but guess not.

How do I figure out what temp sender I need?



Oh, while I’m here, attended a show at So-Cal Speed Shop today. Wasn’t well attended, so took home best in show. There were like, 2 other cars. [emoji38]

 

Is the sender for the temp in the block hooked up? Are you using the sender from '53? Normally when you ground the sender lead the gauge will peg. Might have a ground issue or the wrong sender, New senders are available on line,

 

So, I took apart my other gauge cluster to make sure it’s a 12 volt gauge.


The on in the car has 12+ to one side and grounds out on the sender in the block. Once the engine hits about 140ish degrees, the needle pegs almost all the way up. It’s slow to get there, so it’s not straight 12+ and a ground.

I have another sender on my work bench I’m going to try, but I’m expecting the same results. If that happens, should I just find a sender from 53?

 

So, the sender in the block is from a later model as in OE with the big block Olds? Might be a resistance issue, as compared to the OE for the '53. You could check the one in the block cold and then hot after running with a ohm meter to see what the range is cold vs hot and compare it to a '53 piece. If you had a variable resistor, you could attach it to your gauge with 12 v and see what resistance it takes to sweep the dial. I suppose you could just get a new sender for a 53 as well, might be a quicker process. Some on that auction site.
An excerpt from the Cad site for reference:
The temperature vs. resistance values for 1939 thru 1952 Cadillacs and LaSalles is 130 ohms at room temperature(about 70F), 60 ohms at midpoint of gauge, and 30 ohms to indicate HOT. This information was provided to me several years ago by Jack Hoffman, who then possessed an AC brand tester for those gauges. Cadillac's part number for the sender is 1512015.
We shouldn't ***ume that the Olds is the same but, you could get a couple resistors like a 60 and a 30 to test the gauge just to see if it is in the area. Connect the sender lead thru the resistor to gnd byp***ing the sender and see what the gauge does for kicks. Might give you a good clue what is going on.

 

Soooo… anything wrong with me just tacking on a couple of 10 ohm resistors? Puts it pretty much spot on.

Before:


After with extra 20 ohms:


The resistors I used:

 

Are you adding 20 ohms into the circuit with the existing temp sender still hooked up? What temp is the engine at? You can borrow a candy thermometer from the house and shove it in the radiator to see what the temp is and correlate it to the gauge position. That way you can get an idea of where it is running. You can add/subtract ohms to get in sync.

 

I’m adding the 20 ohms to the current temp sensor. I have a manual gauge under the dash that shows coolant temp at 180 when the original olds gauge is center. (It was also 180 when I redlined on the original gauge before resistors.)

 

What does it read with the resistors added and with the engine cooled down? The worst part is you don't know what it will read if it gets hot though!

 

Well then, there you go! Wire in the 20 ohms and you have a good reference. You can pick up some smaller resistors and shrink wrap them in the line if you wish to save some space.

 

It reads zero with the engine cool. I still haven’t made my fan shroud yet, so next time I’m in traffic, I’ll get an idea of what the original gauge will do when the engine gets a little hot. Maybe I’ll get lucky and it will be fairly accurate. Just glad it’s reading center now at operating temp.

 

Opinions on valve cover lettering? Change in color? Change in wording? Ditch them all together?

 

It's OK, I wouldn't worry about changing color I just wouldn't want it if it was mine but it's not, if you like it keep it.

 

I’m not really sold on it. Might try Rocket 455 instead.

The long term plan is to get the engine rebuilt and the the engine repainted. Just doing a bit of cheap dress up for now. But also don’t want to look cheap.

 

I would do something that look more stock in font and color.
And my choise of words would be SUPER ROCKET.
Maybe put in the rocket if i wanted some more.

 

The font is a little big for me. I'd go with the rocket over oldsmobile.

 

Well. ****.

I was all ready for the invasion last week. Had the car cleaned up, bumper waxed, everything.



And then my radiator starting leaking out of nowhere.


I decided it was just time to replace the radiator. I’ve beaten it up so much over the years, and most of the fins are bent. Honestly, probably why I overheat sitting still.

After lots of measuring, I determined a 55 Chevy truck radiator fit best. I ordered one and it showed up yesterday.

Good news? It’s a perfect fit.


Bad news? FedEx beat the **** out of it and I have to exchange it. It’ll be another two weeks or more before I can get a replacement. Should have just driven up to Summit and bought one.





Maybe the seller will offer me a discount to keep it. I can still work with it, but I spent too much to just have some bent fins again.

 

This time around figure out a way to get an anode into your cooling system like this one:
VALFLUIDS Magnesium Anode Rod with PTFE Thread Seal Teflon Tape, for RV Water Heaters and Camper Water Heater. (4.5"L x 1/2" NPT - 1 Pack) - - Amazon.com
It will save that aluminum radiator from being eaten by electrolysis. Use magnesium, not the other alloys offered. Some folks hook a wire to it and dangle it into the mouth of the radiator into the cooling fluid.
Lots of info on the web regarding this subject.

 

Cool, I’ve never heard of that before. I’ll give it a shot.

Since we’re on the subject of preserving the radiator, I may as well ask. And I know I’m about to get a bunch of **** for it.

Is it that big of a deal I’m running dexcool? I switched years ago because I have two other vehicles that use it. From what I’ve read, it got a bad rap because GM claimed it was good for a lot longer than it really is. I mess with stuff so much that it never sticks around for long.

Is there a better fluid that would actually cool better? Again, everything I’ve read says it all cools the same.

 

many run distilled water and with aluminum radiators the manufacturers usually specify what to use for antifreeze. On my Champion I had to use Prestone IIRC. I would check with the manufacturer on the Dexcool use.

 

I have an aluminum Champion in my car (radiators4less on eBay). I run a sacrificial anode where the drain was, I bought a 5-pack of the anodes themselves. After 4 years I pulled it and checked it. It was still perfect, changed it anyway. I use distilled water and have a ground strap on the radiator for good measure.