I agree with Joe H. Cam break in is critical. using stock valvesprings for break in then swithcing to high rate springs is a pain in the *** but it will let your cam live. Comp and others offer heat treated or surface hardened flat tappet cams. they cost a little more but when you compare that price against X # of oil changes with specialty oil it breaks even quickly. Id rather just use an off the shelf oil and throw in half a bottle of engine break in lube to be safe.
try Joe Gibbs Racing oil, great stuff with ZINC. Good enough for NASCAR good enough for me. Any engine that lives at those RPM's for 500 miles has got to have great lubricants in them.
I think that's true --- if the oil made today is being used in cars made today. API cl***ifications have changed to keep pace with modern engine designs, and those specifications aren't always compatible with the old engines. Bob
Anybody else using Hyper-Lube? I considered it, but since it doesn't contain zinc or phosphorous, I was skeptical about the chemistry. Bob
I think it is a good idea to break in a new engine correctly. I don't think there is a need for heavy valve springs on the street motors. Was at a swap meet and a guy was trying to sell me springs from a Nascar engine, they looked like they were strong enough to hold up the car for its suspension. Ago
I work for a major oil corporation and we make the base stock for a certain synthetic oil. I can ***ure you that your statement is false. Has anyone used diesel oil. Some of those Ive read still have quite a bit of zinc in them...
Since 2007 the diesel oils are backing down on the zinc just as car oil has. Since they went to running converters on diesels, they are having the same plugging up problems the cars had. Just check the ratings to be sure. Joe
I found this info on the net.... Is Modern Oil Killing Your Engine? EDITOR'S NOTE: Many owners of vintage cars with flat tappet Cam Engines may not be aware that recent oil formulations have changed to prolong the life of catalytic converters. This new formulation is now known to cause excessive wear in our vintage cars. Appearing below are two articles by Bruce Stulzman, a member of the Western Pennsylvania Triumph (car) ***ociation. I also included some options researched from the Internet and from the Triumph Club. Modern Motor Oils and Our Vintage Flat Tappet Cam Engine http://www.centralpastreetmachines.org/Items-Interest/Modern Oil.html Other Oil Options 1. Racing oils like Amsoil 20W-50 Series 2000 is one of the oils left with enough ZDDP for flat tappet cams, and one could use special break-in oils but these are fairly expensive and not available off the shelf. 2. Use a good off road synthetic diesel engine oil like Amsoil 15W-40 Marine oil. This oil has the added benefit of increased rust protection which is ideal for engines that are not run regularly an/or are stored. Amsoil confirmed that this oil will work with flat tappet cams. It is not a CJ-4 oil 3. Be warned about Kendall oil. Someone bought the name and simply subs***uted their own inferior product. The good news is that the former Kendall refinery in Bradford PA is now known as the Brad-Penn Refinery and continue to refine and blend the same Kendall oil under a different name.....Penn Grade 1. Unfortunately this oil is only available from the Coen Oil Company in Greensburg and Washington PA. 4. Other Oils to consider are: Castrol Syntec "Cl***ic" 20-W-50; TWS MotorSport 10W-60 and BMW Long Life 5W-30.
Talked to my dads brother who used to be a chemist for STP.retired now.He said zinc is only needed for cam break in ,Zinc has only been reduced because roller motors dont need the high levels of zinc,
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