"The typical "clicker" type torque wrench is good for +/- 4% accuracy. An equal quality Beam Deflector torque wrench is good for +/-2% accuracy." I read an interview with a NASCAR engine guru in Circle Track a while ago that commented heavily on this; given the need for testing and recalibration, his opinion was that it was not really worth the trouble and the possibility of shift in results with the clickers to use them on the most critical fasteners, but that they were plenty good for less critiacal stuff. His advice was to insist on beam type wrenches for connecting rods and mains, and to use the clickers on everything else.
Bruce, I wouldn't argue with that at all. I just get amused when "fancy" tools are instantly deemed "better" than some of the old stuff with no real consideration other than NEWER MUST BE BETTER. Granted alot of newer stuff is better - but NEW doesn't guarantee it's better. On a similar note a friend I work with does road racing - he was amazed when at a big event that the SUPER HIGH DOLLAR teams were using a string gadget to align their cars. When he asked them about it they told him that the fancy electronic gizmos are definitely far more accurate WHEN they were working right and that they couldn't afford to be OFF a mile in some alignment - so they always double checked the "good" equipment with the "outdated" stuff - just to be be sure the good stuff was actually working. BTW - I have both clicker torque wrenches (snap on) as well as beam deflectors - I ALWAYS use the beam deflector when torquing rods and mains.
Hemi, I agree with you- I prefer the beam types for critical stuff, or my Snap-On dial types. One big problem with click-type wrenches is that most of them are supposed to be returned to zero (or whatever the maker specifies) after use....but a helluva lot of guys don't do that...thereby ruining the calibration. I will say, though, that I've also seen inexperienced guys make mistakes with beam types, because they drag the pointers on the scale. Of course, they also tend to jerk the handles of any type wrenches, forget to deburr threads, clean out holes, use regular taps to chase threads, fail to use specified lubricant....so dragging the pointer may not be so big a deal after all, in the scheme of things.
How in the hell did we get in a rant about torque wrenches ??? A good engine builder knows that rod bolts have to be tightened to stretch, such as the NASCAR thing you guys mentioned. Call the rod bolt manufactures and they will tell you this, If you don't stretch the bolts they will stretch on there own and the nuts fall off into the oil pan and all hell breaks loose. Then all gets blamed on the stupid *** engine builder for not tightening the rod nuts. Now let's get back to bustin this cats balls about installing the rod caps backwords and not doing his homework !! LOL >>>>.
I like the clicker. 4% of 30 pounds is just a hair on the dial. I'm good with that. Most of us don't build race engines. I've only put together four engines in my life, and I never bought a rod bolt tension gauge. I realize it is the cats *** of rod bolt tightening, but sometimes doing it the way they used to do it in 1955 is "traditional" hee... At least I get new bolts and nuts.
The Jalopy Journal
