Technical New to Flatheads.... Engine noise ? Normal?

I agree with Blues4U, it could very well be detonation caused by any number of things including fuel, advance curve, etc.

 

So what do you think I should try next?....Oil & filter service and plugs?...Possibly back to Autoliteor just colder NGK B6?... Not sure how old the fuel is...Doesn't smell bad and tank is full...But I know the shelf life isn't long on today's gasoline .I'll have to research checking the timing..Not familiar on how...As I said Chevy's I am the most familiar with.

 

Old school initial timing.
Works well on every flathead I’ve owned.
Attach a vac gauge to a manifold vacuum line.
Rotate the distributor until you have a maximum reading. Retard the vacuum reading just a few pounds by rotating the distributor. Done.
Advance timing will not be effected.
A lot of threads here on that issue.

 

All of the above? Possibly pulling the heads for a visual inspection. I'd start by simply backing off the timing a few degrees and see if it helps. Can't get much simpler than that, and you just might find the cause of the problem.

 

According to Vern Tardels book, the only spark plug for a flathead is a Champion H10. It's what I use.

 

I sure hope you're not running aluminum aftermarket heads. Blanket statements such as this can lead to some serious mistakes,

 

Heads are Edelbrock..Sorry to be so ignorant...Currently at work and not with car...I see a pointer/pin at the lower pulley....Are there timing marks present on the dampner/balancer?....Is rotating the distrib clockwise to retard initial timing?..

 

Did you pull some plugs and look for smashed electrodes?

 

I have domed Ross pistons in mine we found we had to re machine the chamber for a little extra clearance , is it possible this was done but maybe a little shy on one hole?

a friend bought a bore scope camera for his iPhone for 20 bucks might be a good investment for you I need to buy one also

 

Going to check for existing plug issues this evening when I get home

 

Good information about the timing or fuel causing spark knock.

However,,,I can’t agree with anything causing it because of interference or anything hitting inside the engine.
If something was making contact,,,,pulling the plug wire would not change it.
It would still be hitting,,,wouldn’t it ?
Even if it was a piece of carbon on the piston crown,,,,the plug wire wouldn’t change that sound.

It could very well be the plugs,,,causing a knock ,,,or the fuel being old.
What worries me is why the knock happens when he reconnects the wire.
And it is only #1,,,,none of the others.

Seems like the fuel would cause a few of the other cylinders to make the same noise.
As well as the plugs or the timing,,,those should cause at least one other cylinder to act up as well .
I had a friend that had an engine that would act like this,,,,,at times it would knock like hell,,,,then at idle it would relax,,and be silent.
Rev it up,,,,hear the racket,,,,,and ,,,it even did it at different rpm .
He drove it for a few weeks,,,until it got worse.

Tommy

 

If there's lots of carbon in there the clearance on a tight head could be reduced to nothing. Might be a piston or valve slapping the carbon on the bottom of the head.

A good way to remove carbon is the water blast method. Warm the engine up with the air cleaners off. Make sure the exhaust is pointed at something you don't mind getting very dirty, permanently. Rev the engine up to 2,500 and dribble a little (a few tables****s?) clean water from a cup slowly into each port of the carbs, one by one. You will see lots of steam and dirty black spray out the exhaust as the water vapor removes and expels the carbon. Run the engine at the 2,500 until it smooths out again. Then pull a plug and look into the hole to see how clean the top of the valve is.

 

Rotating the distributor clockwise, looking at it from the front, will advance the timing.
Your plug type is just fine. In fact NKG are in my opinion the best.
Use my initial timing method. It’ll get you close for investigating.

 

I had a noise driving me crazy a couple of years back. Pulled the heads it was a valve seat that had come lose from the block. Ended up finding four of them.


Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.

 

I thought this was an 8BA,,,,,the distributor drives clockwise.
Wouldn’t turning it CW retard the timing ?

Tommy

 

Some observations related to spark plugs as I had a question on the barn about Autolite 216.

1. The NGKB4L is cl***ified by NGK as having an "extra hot heat range".

2. The NGKB4L has a reach listed as 7/16". At least on JEGS , Autozone, NAPA. NGK lists reach as 3/8".

3. From NGK - When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. Running too cold a plug can only cause it to foul out, whereas running too hot a plug can cause severe engine damage.

4. From Edelbrock (#1116 heads) recommended spark plugs are Champion RC12YC or equivalent 14 mm x 3/4" reach.

5. The reach of the NGKB4L is 5/16" too short if the reach of 7/16" is correct.

6. Brisk USA lists NGK heat range of 5 equivalent to Champion heat range of 11/12. No comparative listing is given for NGK 4. The Champion RC12YC has a heat range of 12 which is equivalent to a heat range of 5 (edit: had 4 previously) for NGK. Therefore you are running a hotter plug than what is recommended by Edelbrock.

7. I doubt issue is due to spark plugs, but at a minimum, I would verify reach of the NGKB4L, and if the 7/16" reach is correct, you should replace them with the recommended Champion or equivalent.

8. If noise is just coming from one area of block, I'm guessing rod bearing, but I'm no expert.

 

I replaced the plugs to a standard heat range this evening. I played with timing a little both ways. The plugs that I removed showed no abnormalities. The plugs seemed to help a little. The rattle is still there when the throttle is taken off idle. Not 100% of the time. It’s like it comes and goes. Possibly losing oil pressure?? Will verify pressure or lack of when the new gauge arrives Friday. Thanks to all.

 

It was normal when we were kids in the 50's for rattling mains. All of our cars rattled but kept running. We didn't know they were about to explode.

 

Waiting for new oil pressure gauge tomorrow. Checked compression this evening. 130 Psi even on all cylinders.

 

That’s good compression,,,,,very even too.
Maybe you will get lucky,,,hope so.

Tommy

 

Oil pressure cold at idle 10 psi. Rises to 20 with rpm increase. Unknown age 15w40 Rotella Going to pull motor. Tomorrow and inspect.

 

Good idea man,
Check It out good,,,,before anything bad might happen.
No matter what,,,,after this,,,,you will have an engine that will last longer and be dependable.

Tommy

 

Need to measure thread depth in al aftermarket heads before making decisions about plugs.
Early Edelbrocks used 7/16"reach, later production used 3/4".
My Edmunds heads use 1/2", Sharps on 3/4".
With all the options and possibilities you need to know what is there in order to make good decisions.
Good luck.
Garpo

 

What sort of oil pressure is considered normal on these motors ? I would ***ume they are lower than a healthy OHV engine. Thank you all for taking the time to help.

 

According to the motors manual,,,,,they have 55 pounds.
That is what the book calls for,,,,,,around 50 or so.
That would be with good bearings and running properly of course.
I have read where many have much lower psi,,,,,it makes me feel uneasy when I hear about that .


Tommy

 

Had similar problem on a 59 an
AB with a flatomatic
Only on slightly hitting the gas
Turned out the torque converter was loose
The real issue is constant knocking
My experience has been if mechanical in origin it will make noise period
Back in the day I would put a banana and some saw dust in the rear end and race till it quit
Flatheads are high maintenance in the world of today IMHO too many avenues to wasting time and cash
I know Ford in Ford been there too many times

 

Wear on rod bearings.

 

Hey Eric,,,,is that #1,,,,,?
I see some stamps on the counterweight,,,is that a 03 stamped on it?
I ***ume.030 under on the throws,,?
Mic the bearings and mic the journal just to be sure,,,compare clearance.

At least it is not spun,,,,!

Tommy

 

The mains look better than the rods. The rods are 030 and the mains are 020 It’s been bored 060 and has no ridge. The rod pictured is probably the worst. There is some copper showing on all except for the last last two rods towards the firewall. Which have no copper Just some scratches. The crank looks better than the inserts.

 

Yeah,,,the rear rods are fed from the rear main.
And it flows all the time,,,,and first as well.

I think your crank is fine from your description.

Tommy