Technical New to pre war, need advice

I just got back from a grocery getting run. There’s a stretch of highway coming back home. I had this traditional original ford front end with a Vega cross steer doing 70-75 a few minutes ago.
Boy that flathead runs strong.

 

I’m just north of you, south of Seattle. Lots of convertibles over the years. There’s been way too many nice mornings and unexpectedly wet evenings driving home. I’ve got a 32 cabrio, no fenders, and even with the top up you’re blind on a wet road from the spray. I can’t image it even down south on I5 during commuting hours. Our “fair weather” law will maybe let you sneak by once in a while, but not forever.

So I’m going to second 41 GMC. Fenders and some kind of a top to put up. You’ll drive the car a lot more and enjoy it that much more. I love the cabrio, but I finally shipped it to AZ.

And follow the other advise about the built quality. A top and fenders won’t help with a poorly built car.

 

These are my to cars, they both are happy at 100 mph. but on long comutes the 40 pontiac with the permanent roof wins! Gary

 

I appreciate all the feedback and insight. I'll dig around and take my time. Vancouver has an awesome suspension/brake shop that has done me right a few times in the past and knows a ton about a ton with old cars. They do lots of straight axle stuff. They said I can always swing by and they'd tell me what they think about a front end, good and bad. I think anything I'm seriously considering, I'll take them up on it. It's worth a $50 uhaul trailer to make sure, and if the owner is wired about it, then that pretty much sums it up.

 

[/QUOTE]- that being said where exactly do you figure you’ll find a shoe box sized radiator for that car to put the grill in the correct spot and not ten feet taller than the cowl after that big Z in the frame and channeling[/QUOTE]

No idea. The earliest vehicle I've owned is 47. New to the 20s and 30s stuff. As many has been built in as many years I figured there's a solution that's been figured out for just about every problem. Worst case I could have one built I figured.

 

Thanks Dennis. After a year and a half of late nights and weekends, I finished the Dodge. New 350,*******, bags all around, 64 chevy suspension l, etc, etc....I sold it today. Just couldn't fall in love with it. The Brookwood is for sale too. The buick is a different case. Has jag suspension, 401, st400, etc. I just got a really good 50 jetback I'm gunny body swap to this chassis.
Not to get a sob story going, but my dad passed in April and we talked for years about building an A or traditional hot rod, so I'm pretty set on fulfilling the dream we talked about, plus I've always wanted one. I just need to learn a whole new set of issues and landmines now. Up until now, every old suspension got cut out for a newer control arm style, or Jag, so this is a new world for me.

 

Start by buying the Vern Tardel Mike Bishop book for some basic learnin.

 

Start going to local events and take your Cammera with ya. Target events that aren't just power park and spit shine. You'll learn way more than any book can tell ya. There's no "One Specific" way to do any Hot Rod project. Try Tootle Washington Aug 19th. There's a powerful learning event for ya.

 

Hey @OZCAST
I have a good friend that lives up in Edison Washington, he is well known here on the HAMB, and is very knowledgeable when it comes to all things Model A and the realm of hot rodding.
Get in touch with Matt Field AKA @Hitchhiker.
He is a great source for parts as well.
Thanks from Dennis.

 

Thanks Dennis

 

What's the event called So I can look it up? THANKS!

 

Been a long time since I've searched the classifieds with any seriousness. "Would make a good gasser" has become a trigger word for me, and now know exactly what it means, lol.

 

Riverdale Raceway. Toutle, WA. Pre-1964 Traditional Styled Cars (subject to approval). This is put on by the Estranged car club. It's Vintage drags and Old School cars.

 

Are you shopping for a driver specifically or would a stalled project collection of stuff maybe fit your needs? Open or closed T?

 

If it's a T, I want a coupe. I'm open to more A's as far as body style. I'm ok with both. My budget isn't polished, finished. I'm not good with suspension geometry, so I need that part done. I'm fine with mechanical and some body

 

If set up properly they will 200mph on the freeway all day.

 

Nope.

At that fuel burn rate, you are lucky if you get 30-minutes, with a huge tank.

 

So the big question is then, is there a way to set up a suicide front end properly? It seems most are built that way that are around. And is it too painful turning them back into a traditional, functional system. Should I just consider every suicide suspension needing changed out and budget that way?

 

You can name front I beam steering anything you want and there are several different versions and methods of mounting. That said if you also understand Geometry and travel then include it in your design and build, any one of them can and will work. You just have to have your Sh-T together before you start welding things in place. A few years back I had a customer with a killer nice Model A Coupe with all the best parts you could gather up and buy with a Credit Card. Her builder of choice didn't have a clue but charged plenty anyway and the car would scare the Hell out of you at 40 miles an hour. Without buying a single part I corrected the components and gave her back a Hot Rod with excellent driving manners and gained a friend for life. It's what you know, not what you buy or choose.

 

Will someone tell me where the Hell I can run 200 mph all day? I want to move there.

 

You can do it at Bonneville, or Black Rock, but you need to make really big circles!

 

Sure, the tie rod needs to be behind the axle, not in front.

If you see a tie-rod out front, walk away, or consider that it will need to be completely done over.

 

Suicide front is basically a generic term for an axle in front of the chassis. Or no frame horns extending over the front suspension with the spring mount in front of the chassis.
You see a lot of em doing that to get low without a stretched (lowered) axle.
You can get it low with a stretched axle, reversed springs and a flat x-member. With bobbed rails.

the ole controversial AM hot rod T coupe

I guess you can argue scribe line and radius

The Ackerman experts will tell ya to run the steering center link behind the axle.
Im not arguing with ‘em

 

Thanks for the help everyone.

 

I realize it’s a bit of a drive, but Saturday at Good Guys in Puyallup there will be a lot of T’s and A’s to look at. Good and bad. Not to mention cars like you’ve already been around.

The other thing you might consider, particularly with an A, is look for an older restoration that’s in need of some work. Probably cheaper in the long run to start with something not cobbled together than to have to remove and repair bad work to replace it properly.

Either way, read the books recommended above and check out the P&J’s catalog before you get your wallet out.

 

I should design bolt-on steering arms that extend out forward, and curve around the drums, so those that insist on running inverse Ackerman can fix their cars.

 

I think CCR used to sell those?

 

Probably no market for them.

I am good at designing things nobody will buy.

I cannot even convince people not to build their cars wrong.

 

You and I have VERY FEW things we disagree on.

 

There could be, but only if sold through Speedway.