HI everyone! I'm new to the group and I need some tech info. I bought a '54 Customline mordor last week to use as a driver. I know little about these cars. The old girl hasn't run in quite some time and I'm going to do my best to resuscitate her. For now, I'm just going to concentrate on the 'GO' and "WHOA" parts (worry about the body later) starting with new wiring from stem to stern with and upgrade to 12 volt. I've pretty much figured out the system under the hood, but I still have a question for the instruments. I'm told Ford kept their instruments 6v well after they updated their cars to 12v. I'm also told they mounted a voltage reducer to the back of their clusters. My first question is this; Would using one of these reducers be an easy way to keeping my stock gauges and if so, which one would be the best to use? The next question is on the fuel system. I'm replacing everything, tank, lines fuel pump, etc. The carb is getting a rebuild kit. Can a '55-'56 tank be used in a '54? Has anyone done this before? The reason I ask is because TANKS INC has one for a '55-'56 that is about $100 cheaper than cheapest '54 tank I've found. Next, is the old sending unit voltage specific? Any and all input would be greatly appreciated, thanks!!
welcome to the group. i cant give any advice about what does/doesnt work, but give people time. lots of smart guys/gals here will be able to help out.
IMO, if you're cutting it up (and the trunk floor is probably rusty anyway, ironically mine wasn't), an early Mustang gastank works very well. It does two things, replaces a lot of would-be rusted out trunk, and gives you a new, fairly priced fuel tank (Mine as made in canada), it also gives you a little more ground clearance if you want to notch and bag your car. Just an idea
Dear chopd top: Welcome, but please excersize patience. Most of us who have the answers you seek are old and addled...and we still work and are unavailable for consultation service during working hours. One of the most knowledgeable of our group is currently recovering from serious surgery and is as yet unable to even operate his keyboard. He has worked very hard to form this group and to keep it a pleasant place to visit and belong, free from the flaming and disrespect that runs rampant on the Main Board. So, please. We're glad to have you aboard and willing to have you as a valued member and will help wherever and whenever possible. Okay...perhaps I can be of some help. I am a big fan of a complete rewire utilizing all the modern technology built into today's commercially available rewire kits. I have a Ron Francis kit for my '52 Victoria, but it is as yet uninstalled. Others have used Rebel Wire and Painless Wiring kits with good success. Yes, voltage reducers can be used on all guages except the Ammeter, which should in my opinion be left inoperable as it does not have the capacity to operate safely with modern high-amp alternators. Jeff, who's recovering from surgery, and raceron, who's working his *** off these days, have the Ford part numbers for the factory-style voltage reducers as I recall, and will jump on here with a follow-up as soon as they are able. The heater will also need to be stepped down, but it's a high-amp draw and will need a high-capacity voltage reducer. The horns will be really loud when running on 12 volts, but won't last long. Better to change them out for 12-volt units as they are also very high-draw items. You'll need to change all your light bulbs for 12-volt units, too, and I think that just about covers it. Your biggest problem will be wiring the turn signals, as we've learned. There's a thread somewhere on this social group which includes a diagram. Perhaps one of the guys can repost the diagram for you...or you can go and look for it. I'm sure I've overlooked something, but you can count on the others to jump in and add their 2 cents worth. Good luck!
maybe thats why my 53's horn seems awfully loud. it could still be a 6 volt horn hooked to 12 volts. i just always figured they were just that loud. my grandma had a late 80's/early 90's park ave ultra that had a loud and distinct tone to it. may have to look for one of those.
Dwaynerz, thanks! That's what a friend had told me, lots of smart guys/gals that know their stuff and this group was the best place to go for any help that I may need. Custom Crestline, thanks! That's an idea I tossed around and still haven't ruled out completely but the trunk is solid as a rock and I want to avoid cutting it if I can. Missysdad1, thanks! My apologizes if my post seemed to project impatience on my part, that's certainly not the case and there's no disrespect intended. I seldom get on here because of work, but lately it's been slow so I've found myself scouring the posts here and the main board trying to learn as much as I can. Now, on to the wiring. I bought a Rebel kit after I called and talked to Bob, the owner. GREAT GUY! He helped tremendously with my many questions. IMO, new wires are the only way to go since most of the old harness is brittle and insulation is nonexistent in many places. As far as the heater blower motor, I had planned on replacing it with a 12v variety with the train of thought this will eliminate a voltage reducer for it. Will I need to incorporate some sort of relay because of the draw as well? The horns are getting changed as well as anything else that I can think of that's 6v. I still have to go through the dash panel and pull the bulbs and find their 12v equivalents. There is still much to do! Thanks again everyone!
always fun to get started on a new project, and i can understand the eagerness of wanting to get messing with your new toy. seems questions never get answered with the same degree of urgency that they are asked in, but they get answered. it kinda makes ya be patient and hopefully less likely to re-repair something that probably didnt need fixed to begin with. been there, done that, and have a stack of receipts to prove ive spent way more than i should have when the repair proved to be easier or cheaper.
Welcome to the board. You don't have to change the horns, cuz when you hit the ****on, it gets everyones attention NOW. You can also leave the 6 volt starter in there, as it spins the engine over REAL quick. Just don't grind the starter too long if the car doesn't want to start.
Welcome to our group choptop.Now, for the other question you had, will the 55-56 gas tank fit a 54? I think it might work, but I wonder why such a price difference. The sending unit will be 12 volts for 56. I'm sure somebody will come in with the answer.
I converted my 53 to 12volts about 25 years ago and I'm still using the original 6v horns and starter. Of course I don't drive it everyday. But I never had any problems yet.
Welcome to the group ! First the 66/67 mustang gas tanks are super easy to install and fit in the trunks easily . You can get gas tanks off ebay a lot cheaper than most places . I got mine for my 55 about 5 years ago and was $159 to the door but that was 5 years ago . Still check out the prices on Ebay . As for wiring you can get a good wiring harness right here . Rebal wiring harness is around $150 for your car and is made in the USA . Glenn 33 doesn't sell them anymore and has retired but a guy named Tug??? takes care of them now . You can find them under the Alliance Vendor list for Rebal Wiring . You can use you same starter because they love 12v ! The gauges you can use a step down voltage to use them . Of co**** ALL the lights and lamps will need replaced . For sheet metal , EMS is a great one and their metal is very good and made in the USA ! A good complete tune-up and spark plug wires would be advisable . Even a carb rebuild would be in order if the car sat for a good while . I would also consider a better coil than the cheap stock size . I use an MSD stock looking coil and the engine does start better . I would also check the fuel pump for crud inside and the fuel lines from the tank to the carb . If the tank was bad I would honestly replace the fuel lines too . You are even looking at about $25 to do that . Of co**** check , clean and repack the front wheel bearings , check all the brake lines for rust and pitting in the brake lines and replace as necessary , brake shoes as necessary and check the rubber cups on the brake cylinders and if there are any cracks replace them too . Make sure the brake springs are good to hold the brake shoes on . Check the emergency brake to make sure that works and adjust that to check the car on a hill . Also check the front end for any bad or work parts , upper and lower ball joints , tie rods ends , idler arm , drag link and pitman arm . The bushings will need to be replaces on the front sway bar . Check the "U" joints and grease them well . Check for holes in the floor and maybe exhaust leaks . That will cover most of what you need to check to actually drive the car safely . One other thing make sure all those star door locks work very good and stay closed ! They tend to pop open for no reason and someone can fall out on the road . Safety first on the old cars before you drive them ! 1955 was 6v , 1956 12v . So can we see some pictures ???? If I can help send me a PM and ask away ! Jim
hi carnut. yeah, i have the same horns, look original but dont drive it everyday either. my stepson thinks the horns are the coolest thing about the car. and parklane.. you are right about getting everyones attention like right now when i honk it. it is reallly loud. cant wait for warm weather to get out and drive it again. will probably become my daily driver when it isnt raining to save on diesel fuel price shock when filling my other daily driver
Yea dwaynerz, your words are wise! I can relate to having a stack of receipts for a project that I'm sure I spent more than I should have on. Thats part of my driving force with this project, trying to keep it low-buck but do it right the first time. Parklane, copper top and carnut341, thanks for the great info. It's truly appreciated!! Retro Jim, what can I say? THANKS A MILLION for the invaluable info and words of wisdom! I've dealt with EMS before and they have great stuff and a helpful staff. My harness from Rebel should be here any day as well as a myriad of other parts that I've ordered. I've decided to upgrade the brakes to disc/drum and am looking for a donor Granada as I type. Oddly enough, I'm having better luck finding parts for the '54 than a '75-'80 Granada, go figure!?! I looked at dozens of kits but, I'm hoping I can get the needed parts from a donor for less money. I've also started going over the frontend and, like Retro Jim suggested, looking for bad or worn parts. There's a couple spots just below the battery tray on the frame that I know I'm going to have to repair/replace but it's an easy fix and right up my alley (welding). Other than that, the frame is remarkably clean as well as the underside of the body. I pulled the gas tank yesterday and I'm not sure than I can save it. It's pitted pretty bad on the bottom, yet the straps are in good shape. The 2 gallons of old gas that came out of it was dark red. I'll probably bite the bullet and get a new one. After doing a little more checking, I've discovered that a '55-'56 are real close on dimensions but the neck and plumbing are different. "Safety first on the old cars before you drive them!" No truer words spoken!
Hey chopd top, I've done everything you're looking to do, and more, in just the last year and a half to the '53. It would take a eternity to retype everything I've learned from the boys and girls here, and completed in the last year. Hunt up posts and whatnot by my id name. you'll find all solid info that I was given and responded to for future restorers like yourself. Good Luck Man! These cars are a blast!
I have a few more in my album. The thing looks scary rusty but, it's pretty solid for the most part. I've repaired far worse than this. The bad areas are the gutter/drip rails on both sides, the usual lower fender tips behind the tires, the ends of the rocker panels <centers and backs are solid> and parts of the floor. The floor is solid enough to drive until I get new panels made for it. The interior is rough but nothing a new set of permanent covers won't take care of. I've got all the stainless steel trim for the car and it's in fair to good shape. Who ever took it off dinged up a few pieces but it's very savable. The 223 is staying, I like it. The 3 spd/OD will eventually get swapped for a T5. I contemplated keeping the 3 spd/OD but the cost of the 12v solenoid was enough to change my mind. More later!
Thanks a bunch 53Crestline, I'll go check them out! I had a '55 once but never got a chance to drive it. I got it in on a horse trade and let it out in the same manner. I'm going to drive this one, it's a keeper
re: "... Jeff, who's recovering from surgery, and raceron...have the Ford part numbers for the factory-style voltage reducers as I recall, and will jump on here with a follow-up as soon as they are able." Jeff, perhaps you know about this voltage reducer Eric speaks of? I'm not familiar with them. Ford used what's referred to as a constant - or instrument cluster voltage regulator but I don't think they were used until the late 50s or early 60s. Part # of the only one I could find in the book is B7A-10804-A, which is a '57 full sized car part number. TBirds used B7S-10804-A. Ron
Sorry if it wasn't you, Ron. After reading so many posts I get confused who sourced what info. I remember someone mentioning that Ford cars used 6-volt guages for several years after they switched to 12-volt operation. And that the voltage to the guages was controlled by factory voltage reducers. Hopefully the person who was the source for this info will chime in with more info...preferably with part numbers.
When I worked for a Ford Truck Dealer back in the 1970's I changed a lot of those regulators for the instruments. We called them a CVR, or constant voltage regulator. It would pulse voltage to the guage cluster, limiting the amount of voltage to the guages (but you all know this, right?) I'm sure those cvr's are still available from FoMoCo. They only have two connections, one side is 12v the other side to the inst. cluster, if memory serves me right.( its been a few years). It's also grounded through the case of the cvr.
Thanks for the part numbers, Ron. I spent an hour or so researching those numbers online and they are just what I need. The pricing on them was a curiosity though, they ranged from $2.97 to $68.95.
If that's what you need, yes they shouldn't be very expensive. There are several different types but I think they all served the same basic purpose. I don't remember what the early ones looked like but there were 2 popular later types - one with 2 male spade connectors and the other one with a male/female snap or ****on type connector (kinda like a 9V transistor radio battery has) - it plugged into the printed circuit on later Ford models. If you research "dash voltage regulator" you might find the later ones, along with a pic or illustration of them, so you can tell which one might work for you if that is what you're looking for - a constant voltage reg. Ron
When you get this sorted out, chopd top, please post a NEW THREAD with part number and photos so other guys can do an EASY SEARCH. This will really help in the future as this is a very common question. Thanks.
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