Register now to get rid of these ads!

Hot Rods Newbie evaluating hot rods for sale

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by David Gersic, Jun 11, 2015.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. David Gersic
    Joined: Feb 15, 2015
    Posts: 2,808

    David Gersic
    Member
    from DeKalb, IL

    I'm looking to buy my first hot rod. I'm reasonably good with mechanical stuff in general, but this is unfamiliar territory. So, in addition to the usual things I'd look for in any used car (is everything there, does everything work, starts ok, idles ok, runs ok, brakes ok, no disturbing squeaks or rattles, etc.), what other special things should I be looking at in a non-stock car?

    Specifically, I'm looking at a street rodded '37 Chevy, so it's not entirely HAMB friendly. Major modifications include Chevy small block 350, TH350 trans, GM 10 bolt rear, Mustang II front end.

    So I'm thinking I need to have a look at the welding where the IFS was installed, the welding around the motor mounts, and whatever spring mounts were added at the rear. Probably the transmission, too. I'm thinking that if the welds look like they were done by somebody who knew what they were doing, that they're probably ok. Of course I won't have an alignment rack handy, so I'll check to see if it tracks straight and if it does I'll assume that the alignment is close enough.

    I'm in the midwest, so I'm looking for rust and rot. I'll look closely at the frame for any signs of damage.

    What else should I be checking or looking for? What would you look for?
     
  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,290

    squirrel
    Member

    Look for style. I guess it takes some time, and reflection, to figure out what looks "right" to you. Buy a car that was done how you'd do it, if you were building it. I've seen guys spend more than they spent purchasing a "done" car, to get it like they want it.
     
  3. 56premiere
    Joined: Mar 8, 2011
    Posts: 1,445

    56premiere
    Member
    from oregon

    Sounds like you have it figured out. Take a friend with you to keep you grounded. And if it don't squeak or rattle it may not be a hotrod.
     
    kiwijeff, Murphy32 and lothiandon1940 like this.
  4. i.rant
    Joined: Nov 23, 2009
    Posts: 4,730

    i.rant
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. 1940 Ford

    I would tell you to look at cars that are listed higher priced than you think you can afford/wish to spend/ etc. to help you establish value in your mind. Once you see what let's say, 40K can buy compared to 25K you may have a better understanding of what it may cost to make changes or additions to the car you finally decide is the "one".
    One more thing, don't be afraid to make an offer, you just never know. Good luck in your "quest".
     
    timwhit and lothiandon1940 like this.
  5. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,575

    oj
    Member

    Judge the cars' owner. Hot rods are an extension of the people that build them, if your gut tells you you can trust the guy then you can have more faith in the car.
    If you aren't an expert and the guy didn't build the car then walk.
     
    hrm2k likes this.
  6. hrm2k
    Joined: Oct 2, 2007
    Posts: 5,379

    hrm2k
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    buy something that talks dirty to you................you will know it when you find it.
     
    kiwijeff, 65nailhead and i.rant like this.
  7. I there any car clubs around your area,ask around and get some local hot rods to check the car out,these guys usually know the nsra safety inspector in your region and might have a member or two that has some experience inspecting cars,these guys can be a huge help. HRP
     
    40fordtudor and i.rant like this.
  8. Gman0046
    Joined: Jul 24, 2005
    Posts: 6,256

    Gman0046
    Member

    A 37 Chevy probably a good choice. I look at every car I build with resale in mind. I don't keep cars too long eventually they all go away. My philosophy is treat a build like a house you would buy. Too far outside of whats considered the mainstream and you'll have something for the rest of your life. A 37 chevy coupe will always have some resale value.

    Gary
     
    i.rant likes this.
  9. Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Joined: Apr 20, 2008
    Posts: 4,761

    Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Member

    Upload some photos of the car and the asking price to give us an idea of the car and the budget range you're working in.
    Are you budgeted for a 35k finished car or a 10k primered beater/runner?

    Is the seller the builder with receipts for the parts used in the build? Chances are good the car has been through several owners so you'll be going on gut instinct and your knowledge as first hand build knowledge and receipts are long gone. For example, you may have to determine if the 350 is truly a claimed to be crate engine or a junkyard pull. If you need help here, bring in a car knowledgeable friend. Don't be afraid to hire a qualified mechanic to put the car up on a rack and go through it.
     
    i.rant likes this.
  10. David Gersic
    Joined: Feb 15, 2015
    Posts: 2,808

    David Gersic
    Member
    from DeKalb, IL

    I'm ok with squeaks and rattles, my daily driver is a rusty '01 Dakota. I know its squeaks and rattles, what they are, and what's normal for it. It's the sound of something seriously not right that I'd be on the lookout for. The sounds of roached wheel bearings, brake pads/shoes failed, that kind of thing. The noise that announces that Something Is Wrong.
     
  11. David Gersic
    Joined: Feb 15, 2015
    Posts: 2,808

    David Gersic
    Member
    from DeKalb, IL

    Good idea, thanks HRP.
     
  12. David Gersic
    Joined: Feb 15, 2015
    Posts: 2,808

    David Gersic
    Member
    from DeKalb, IL

    http://madison.craigslist.org/cto/5036826705.html

    I haven't seen it in person yet. I like the look & style, though there are some things I'll change. It's in my budget range, near the top of what I'm willing to spend. I can admire the $40K+ cars out there, but I won't be buying one. The $10K projects need more time than I have right now. So I'm hunting around $20K.

    I talked to the owner last night. He didn't start the build, but he finished it and has been maintaining it since. As the ad says, that's 20 years ago, so at this point, he knows as much as anybody about it. Initial impression on the phone, he sounds like a good guy.

    The engine is pulled from a mid 1970s something. I don't think the bottom end has been touched. It has an unknown cam, Edlebrock Performer, and Holley carb. I don't know what the trans or rear came out of, I assume they're pulled from something in the same junkyard the engine came from.

    I'm going to try to bring a friend that's more knowledgable and experienced with me. I don't know yet if he can make it.
     
  13. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,590

    31Apickup
    Member

    Make sure you take it for a test drive and not just around the block. Take it on the highway, let go of the wheel and see if it tracks straight, no vibrations, does it stop straight. Try a panic stop. Also find a bumpy road and see if it bottoms out, jumps lanes, etc.
     
  14. Buying a 'finished' car has its upsides and downsides. On the plus side, you have something that drives that you can enjoy as-is. Now, you'll likely never find a 'done' car that matches your 'vision' exactly, but how important that is to you is your call. Like Squirrel says, over time you may spend that much or more all over again if you pursue your vision with whatever you buy. But like the owner says, you couldn't build it for that much either (plus all of your labor).

    The main downside is unless the owner has really good documentation of the build, repairs/maintenance can be interesting. Major components usually aren't a big deal, but small items can be. Look the major mods over carefully, but also look at the smaller stuff, particularly the wiring.

    Good luck!
     
    David Gersic likes this.
  15. When looking at 30s-40s cars I always like to take a long, lingering look at the area where the rear fenders bolt to the body. If that's rotted [the body part] or shows signs of a previous repair, it can turn into serious money. I know of no one who makes patch panels for that area and its' constructed with compound curves that are almost impossible for the common guy to replicate. Also, take a good look at the top where the rain gutters go. Yeah, I know-a 37-38 chev has no rain gutters but if you are looking at a body with gutters, it can be another place for rot to start and like the previous mentioned area, it's hard and expensive to fix
     
  16. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 33,693

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

    main thing, don't talk yourself into something that you are not sure if you really want or not. is it the style of car you would build? car in ad looks pretty good for the price. but, guy has had it a long time and most major stuff done years ago. do not assume anything, check oil/trans fluid/ coolant/ how old are tires & paint? ETC. this may be the deal or, there will be one another day.
     
  17. [​IMG]

    Man,the car looks like one that has be built a long time,,do you like the two tone paint job?,,what about a tweed interior and what's up with the painted black bumpers?

    Not a single photo of the wheels,probably out dated directional wheels or worse stock GM mags from a stock Chevy..

    Reading the information he ether used the wrong rear or has some pretty wide tires on the back,,2" widen fenders on the rear.


    I think the price is high if you plan on doing in modifications,if not and you can live with a old street rod you make the call. HRP
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2015
  18. BLUDICE
    Joined: Jun 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,516

    BLUDICE
    Member

    When I bought my 1st "hot rod" a '22 TBucket - wow some on the crap on that car was so far out, but I saw past all that crap and saw what I wanted the car to become - if it was doable and affordable. It was and I ended up with my dream car - most of the fun was making all the changes. AND remember it's your car - you don't need anyone's approval to do what you want to it - main thing is to have fun! Good luck.
     
  19. Learn where the VIN (serial) number is located for that make/year vehicle and compare it with the paperwork. If it doesn't match (or looks phony) walk (or better yet run) away or be prepared for a lot of work (see archives).

    Charlie Stephens
     
    David Gersic likes this.
  20. Most hot rodders will say that hot rods are never finished, there's always something more to do to it.
    When buying someone else's build, there's probably things you won't like, and would want to change to suit your own tastes.
    As HRP said, that's an older street rod, looks OK in the pics, if that's your thing, and probably is a nice driver.
    If you go look at it, take it for a ride.
    When I got my ride rebuilt, after buying it from the builder, I went out and tried to break it, so I knew how reliable it was. 3 years later, its starting to show signs of wear, but apart from front open wheel fender brackets breaking multiple times, it goes very well, but rattles and bangs, like a homebuilt car should.
    So take it for a blast with the owner, and if he's OK with it, give it a little workout. That'll soon tell you if its good.
     
  21. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,898

    Paul
    Editor

    I was on board until I see the car is off topic for this board.
     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.