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Next step?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by GKreamer, Sep 1, 2009.

  1. GKreamer
    Joined: Nov 2, 2008
    Posts: 55

    GKreamer
    Member

    OK, so I am trying to strip down a fender. I used a paint/rust disc (3M) and then after an hour decided to try a spray-on stripper (DuraColor). Scraped off what I could then used the disc again until the surface was done... sort of. Results are below.

    Suggestions? Comments?


    Thanks!
     

    Attached Files:

  2. terd ferguson
    Joined: Jun 13, 2008
    Posts: 3,734

    terd ferguson
    Member

    Use a grinder on the heavier pitting. Don't let it get too hot in one spot or it could warp the sheetmetal. Otherwise it looks ok.
     
  3. skullhat
    Joined: May 30, 2009
    Posts: 892

    skullhat
    Member

    light bead or media is you best bet.

    if not that route, a wire brush on a grinder, and some metal prep to get rid of the rust. gotta get it real clean , then seal it up with some etch, or epoxy


    skull
     
  4. millersgarage
    Joined: Jun 23, 2009
    Posts: 2,308

    millersgarage
    Member

    blasting it would help the bad spots. Do Not use sand on panels---you may warp them
     
  5. 29nash
    Joined: Nov 6, 2008
    Posts: 4,542

    29nash
    BANNED
    from colorado

    Don't grind off any metal, blast the low spots.
     
  6. GKreamer
    Joined: Nov 2, 2008
    Posts: 55

    GKreamer
    Member

    I read some other threads and used a 4" Paint/Rust 3M "momma's boy" (name given by another member) and it took FOREVER!!! Gotta find some 7" or 9" discs instead & speed it up. I will work on those spots- picked up some Metal Prep & wire wheels.

    Thanks guys!
     
  7. Billet
    Joined: Oct 13, 2008
    Posts: 275

    Billet
    Member

    That's alot if fun. I found myself doing the same thing earlier this year but without the pitting. Skullhat has the right idea, stripping with media is going to give you the best possible starting point. So now without media blasting how are you going to remove that last bit of rust/oxidation in all those little pits? Wire brushes are fun, get the wound wire brushes they seem to slow the wires volocity as they penetrate your clothing. Abrasive wheels come in different grits and can help but will remove metal all around the pitting. Regardless of the method it's important to get primer on the metal ASAP maybe a self etching primer could help to provide a good substrate.
    Good luck
     
  8. 31aBoy
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 634

    31aBoy
    Member

    Get rid of the rust completely! Use a spot blaster, small hand held sand blaster.. also referred to as a speedy blaster.
     
  9. GKreamer
    Joined: Nov 2, 2008
    Posts: 55

    GKreamer
    Member

    Since I was done for the evening I sprayed a coat of self-etching over the bare metal to protect it. I really need to find the larger discs, but I can at least remove the primer based on the pics I took to spot blast it.
     
  10. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 22,598

    49ratfink
    Member
    from California

    bead blasting the whole fender would be a good way. second best would be a spot blaster as suggested above.

    there is a lot of rust spots on there. I'd say you shouldn't have primed it.
     
  11. GKreamer
    Joined: Nov 2, 2008
    Posts: 55

    GKreamer
    Member

    I just did not want the bare metal exposed overnight. I'll remove primer to address the rust spots tomorrow.
     
  12. FiddyFour
    Joined: Dec 31, 2004
    Posts: 9,024

    FiddyFour
    Member

    thats the rub... you're gonna take more tin off the fender gettin the primer off... so long as its not sitting outside where it can get wet, there is no need to shoot it with primer for one night.

    as for the pitting... use naval jelly. bondo sells a small spray bottle thats basicly naval jelly... squirt it on, let it sit, hit it with a wire brush, let it sit some more... rinse it off with water and the rust is gone from the pitting
     
  13. i stripped the few pitted spots on my topolino with rust remover liquid and a brass wire wheel on a 1/2" drill....may sound crude but was fast, easy and the pitted spots shined as well as the never ever rusted metal...and yeah, i even used the 1/2" drill and 3M paint/rust remover wheels to strip it alll to bare metal....this is as i was working the pits

    topolino dppr and rocker workin.jpg
     
  14. GKreamer
    Joined: Nov 2, 2008
    Posts: 55

    GKreamer
    Member

    Thanks, good to know... no point in doubling my work and removing too much metal!
     
  15. Ayers Garage
    Joined: Nov 28, 2002
    Posts: 1,385

    Ayers Garage
    Member

    A good phospho cleaner will get the rust right out of the pits. I buy it by the gallon at Home Depot.
     
  16. FiddyFour
    Joined: Dec 31, 2004
    Posts: 9,024

    FiddyFour
    Member

    yep... from what i understand, its the "secret ingredient" in navy jelly. nice thing about naval jelly is it stays where you want it

    there is a product out called "the must for rust" that i've found works well for heavy "new" rust, you know, where you were stupid and left a fresh steel floor exposed to the elements for 2 years without primer? LOL takes off the dusty kinda rust that forms right after flash rust takes hold like a charm. problem with it is, its the same viscosity as water, and does not stay where you want it...
     

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