Has anyone used the original frame, removing all of the 1 1/2 ton front suspension, slipping a straight axle on, pulling the rearend out, shortening the frame and put a 10 bolt or 9" ford in? That would seem to be the easiest and fastest way to get street ready and not mess with with changing the cab location? Give me some input!! I am wanting to sell 2 of the trucks off to fund the project. I will be keeping 1 of the long hood trucks for my build. Help me out and tell me if my idea is workable. Thanks Keith The picture is from Hawks truck.
I wonder if I would have posted what color I should paint my wheels or ask about a couple of movie cars from Americian Grafitti I would have gotten some kind of response to a build question. I guess you have to ask stupid questions about nothing. Who would have thought?
My truck was built on a one ton frame, I dropped all of the suspension off and shortened it a little with fish plates on the inside then boxed it all. I would do it in a heartbeat. some older build pics here: CLICKY HERE And below as it was when I sold it (sorry bout the OT Jeep, its the only pic i have at work of the grill rechromed and stuff):
No reason in the world not to do it that way. You didn't mentioned what the trucks are but that shouldn't matter.
I hear you! I think your build plan is the safest bet, find a complete transverse leaf I beam set up and just make up the mounts and bolt the*****a in (Do not use Speedway kits, find a better quality setup!). You may need to make a new front cross member, one that wont sit the spring way down like the stock one would (Unless you want a gasser?) by doing that you could also tweak the position of the front wheels to sit dead center of the guards. Shorten to your hearts desire, rear ends are relatively simple on a truck. Are you going to make your own bed? If you do there are no real rules per say, but I think for balance there should be an equal amount of box in front and behind the center line of the diff. If you don't do this they look like**** and you were cutting corners in the build. Diff choice? I guess that depends on a couple of things, A. Engine choice, B. Diff availability. If you are going to have a bit of mumbo in it the 9" is the choice, if not I guess its what you have or what you can get at the best price? What drive line combo are you looking at? Hope I helped a little. Doc.
For the older frames that are nothing more than basic ladder-style, yep, no problem. If I recall, some of the older Binders actually use the same frame for the first three levels of capacity anyway...the differences are strictly springs & axles. So visually it shouldn't look too industrial. You should name it something dirty like "Binder Up" if you want a response. And yes, there have been some less-than-stellar threads lately...but it still is a lot better than some other forums I frequent....where the "waaaaa-mbulance" visits hourly. Also, a lot of guys are at work right now...
Doc the build is for my wife. I was thinking a simple v6 chevy a t5 and a 10 bolt. I figure I could pick up an S 10 and use all of the drive line. The other thing is that the frame and hood are for a OHV 6 not the short hood for a flat 6. I could always drop a v8 in that way. Littlewing I was not trying to be an**** with my comment. I just wanted some real help. Ya know what I mean?
Ya gonna leave the fenders on it? No reason you can't shorten the frame a little. If I ever start another pickup project, I think I'll go with semi elliptic on the rear. Don't get rid of the grill, they look great and scream International if you know what you're looking at. Larry T
Back in the old days 70"s I knew of several guys doing that type of thing to Model A trucks .Kinda cool. I like your original comment too! Sometimes I think we forget why we are here!
that's a good lookin truck. I'd leave it heavy duty with a Dana and duals out of a later truck. then try to find a heavy duty axle for the front. gonna take some big tires to fill those fenders.
I have 3 of these trucks and soon to be 4 plus a 1933 B series International 1/2 ton All of these trucks are in the same shape as the one that I am building. I need to get rid of a few. Keith here is a link to the others http://picasaweb.google.com/BinderRod/BinderDelivery#
Larry T's right, keep the Inter grill. I humbly retract the 34 Chev idea. For a quick build a complete running donor car like the S10 would be spot on! I'm only guessing here, S10's came in V8 and V6 and it depends on what you can get your hands on? Hell with some hard work you could have it on the road inside of a month.........
Just what I was thinking. The 4.3 and 5.7 chevys use the same parts on the front of the motor. Mock it up with removable motor mounts for the 8 or 6. The T5 would bolt up to either one without moving it or changing the drive shaft. Like I said I need to turn the other 2 to fund this one. Life is Grand!!
I kinda' did that on mine but I went transverse on the rear too. 1-1/2 ton frame. My build thread(with the fancy name) has some pics plus more in my albums. No fenders on mine though. Oh, and the wheels should be black...
keith, with what you after here, a daily driver for the gal, why dont you just build a new frame out of some box tubing? it looks to be fairly straight frame rails, add your front x member from the s10, or a straight axle kit, and some hangers and done? i dont see why your original idea would'nt work either.
I hope you don't mind. I copied on to Word and filed it for future use. Very nice build, even if it has a name. LOL
its kinda late to comment, but I think you would be on the road faster if you used the original frame. all the mounting points, wheelbase centerlines, bolting points, etc, etc are already there. if you start from scratch, everything has to be created that holds the sheetmetal to the frame in proper relationship. good luck with your build
I'd just keep the same frame and probably Z it in front and behind the cab so the mounting points don't change. then just put whatever front end and rearend you want.... pretty much what you said tiny elvis!
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