This is my 1932 Bantam coupe that has been built to run Nostalgia altered. The Engine is a 261 running a McGurk roller cam, Offy triple intake with 97s, split exhaust and dressed in Wayne side cover and valve cover. It is backed by a th350 with a Transgo shift kit and stock 9’ locker. I have owned the car since 1964, it was once built for the street but I decided to built a tribute car to the Strokers car club that was one of the founding clubs of Sparta dragstip in Ontario in 1956 and ran both a gl*** slipper style dragster and a T roadster altered at that time. I joined the club in 1961. The reason for this posting is the th350. At first it would not engage and I thought the fluid was low since the cooler took so much, so I topped it up. After that I fired it up again and when I put the ratchet shifter in first, the wheels turned, but as I shifted through the gears, they stayed at a constant speed and continued so even in neutral. I had mistakenly removed the modulator valve from the ****** thinking it was not needed with the shift kit, I have since been told it is needed so it went back on. I am drawing my vacuum from the intake manifold. Even shutting the car off, going to park and restarting, the moment the ****** is in neutral or any forward gear, the wheels continue to turn. Has anyone encounter this before or have any suggestions? Thanks Warren
I saw a similar post where the TC was not seated. http://www.clubhotrod.com/transmission-talk/47974-th350-experts-needed-help-4.html
I am not sure about GM turbo's but FORD c4,c6 etc. have a small rod in the end of the modulator that also engages in, on or against the valve body....the only way the torque converter could be the culprit is if you forgot to bolt it to the flexplate....
I ***ume you have the wheels off the ground. Will it stop turning if you hold the brake? The clutches will have some friction.
It is on axle stands. The brakes barely slow it. topher5150: Entry is through an opening in the roof. No easy feat for an old guy. Warren
Is this a newly rebuilt transmission? or a used one, recently installed? or was the car working and it quit?
This is a new rebuild by a local builder of performance transmissions. I have been trying to contact him, but he is away on holidays. New clutches and a Transgo shift kit were installed. I pulled the governor and it is free and looks brand new. The modulator may not have enough vacuum but I don't know how to determine that. Could too much fluid in the transmission cause such a problem? There does not seem to be any resistance or movement in the ****** when in park or reverse. When searching this problem on line, I see lots of references to a rod in the modulator on Ford transmissions but no mention in the 350. Does anyone know if there should be a rod behind the modulation valve? Thanks to all. Warren
There is no rod on GM TH transmission modulators. But there is a spool valve in there, which the modulator acts against. Are the brakes good? The transmission will spin the wheels when it's in gear, when there is no load on the wheels. It's going to be kind of difficult for us to diagnose this over the internet...
That's a valid point Jim. I will try it with the wheels on the ground, the brakes work fine. I can strap it down to prevent any sudden launch. Warren
Dropped the pan this morning and found the S hook laying in the bottom. Doesn't take much to put it in or for it to fall out, but it doesn't seem to have any clip. It comes out of the linkage, not the valve rod so I will see if I can find a push on cap. Warren
If you can put it in with the valve body and rooster comb in place, then something is not right...do you have that spacer between the case and rooster comb?
The clip (spacer) is in place but leaves the inner linkage quite sloppy. If I push the clip hard to the inside, it locks the S clip very well, but it will probably move over again just enough to let the S clip fall out. I have checked schematics on line but can't seem to find the spacer clip. Maybe this one is worn. Have you seen them anywhere? Warren
The nut was loose. After tightening, there was no way to get the S clip out. Never played with an automatic before and have learned tons for a layman. I want to thank everyone for their input, especially Jim for sticking with it and Saltflats for guessing how many jelly beans in the jar. It will be a few days before I ****on everything up, I have ordered a pan with a drain plug and a good flex tube to fill it. Thanks guys, what an amazing site this turns out to be every day. Warren
Take out the 350 and drop in a good old fashioned 4 speed manual. Sent from my SM-J700T1 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have a Super T10 in my hot rod and a T5 in my 62 Cutl***. I tried to install clutch pedals in the Bantam, but there just wasn't enough room for leg movement. Warren
glad you got it figured out. Troubleshooting over the internet is "fun"....it takes patience on both ends. Thanks for sticking with it!
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