Hot Rods No Speedway Parts, No Zip ties

Holy shit - this is hard. trying to finish up my shoebox build ('51 business coupe with an early 283 swap) and its so easy/tempting to source just about any "problem solver" from the aftermarket - aluminum radiators, (I adapted a copper brass tri-5 instead) block hugger headers (used 55,6 manifolds), throttle pedal with cable (early mustang/falcon mechanical). With no junkyards left to wander, all of my alternatives were more expensive as well as more difficult to source and adapt - For my swap I even used vintage mount stands and an old Wilcap adapter to maintain 3 on the tree - would have been easier to go automatic and an 8 inch rear.....but I hunted down a 3.22 center section and axles from a '56 ford instead.....Don't even get me started on no zip ties.....its like having one arm (zip)tied behind my back.....

At this point I'm making some concessions (cheating) to allow for time and budget to get it on the road - I considered adapting a '55 chevy wiring harness but in the end I think Rebel will get the nod - same for the internal regulated GM alternator and radial tires.

My goal for this car was to make it look like someone pulled a 283 out of a wrecked impala in the late 50s or early 60s and swapped it in using what was easiest/available at the time - early on, the idea/challenge of the thread title popped into my head - so far so good (or at least good enough for me). It goes in for exhaust next week and then the aforementioned wiring and initial start up - I started with a super solid Texas car that had been treated to an amateur resto in the early 80s and parked in a warehouse for the past 20+ years so a major redo was not necessary - just elbow grease, complete new brakes, fuel system and the swap. I will put a "retrospective" build thread together once I get it running and driving and try to include a little more of the cars story. I know we're all here for the same reason - encouragement to keep our builds as traditional as possible - misery loves company

 

Looks nice and clean and I like the 55 radiator.

 

I like the concept that you have going. You can always cover the wiring with "period correct" covering under the hood to make it look time line appropriate. A wise move with the Rebel wiring rather than a harvested 60 year old wiring harness.

 

Very clean installation and I love the fact that you kept it within the time period that you planned. We need more builds like this!!

 

Thanks - I'll likely use cloth tape - I should have said a repro 55 harness - especially if I used a generator - using a lot of tri-5 chevy stuff because that's what I'm familiar with - this poor car is going to have an identity crisis lol

 

It made sense then. It makes sense now.
Just don't forget the Brylcreme.
"A little dab'll do ya"

 

I love the concept and execution so far. Keep at and you’ll be done before you know.

 

Outstanding! Looks great so far. I like what you're doing.

 

You’re right @williebill , it is outstanding, in a field, by itself. Hehe.

 

Tri 5 offer s lot of good parts

 

Yes, looks period for sure with the factory valve covers, air cleaner and radiator. Remember how it was done with a "donor car"? Probably found in the scrap yard or a cheap 4 door, both of which are almost non-existent in this day and age!

 

Same here on my 51 merc.
Early 60s 283 with pp heads, ported 55/6 exhaust manifolds and connected to a flathead OD trans via an old speed gems set up.
Modified 55 edelbrock tri power intake to work with 57 up ports.
55/6 distributor
I’ve got finned vintage cal custom valve covers but they have holes in em. Hoping to pick up a set of no holes tomorrow.
Also using a try 5 copper rad

Might use an early external regulated alt

 

I’m looking forward to getting over there to pick up some parts (still no opportunity… have to get after SWMBO) and get a ride when it’s done. Maybe my procrastination is a good thing

 

Cool car!
Period correct builds take a lot more discipline, time, $$ and effort than most non-car people understand.

 

Looks great!! What did you use for an oil pan? My son and I are getting ready to put a Small Block Chevrolet in his 1951 Ford.

 

I'd even be fine with the alternator as probably most builds done in that time frame got alternators swapped in later.

 

I'm cheating with a 350 trans and 3.09 inch rear but my daily driver deuce pickup with a 56 265 motors right down the road 75 plus all day long and after slowly weaning down the carb is now getting about 20 mpg.

 

I had 2 choices.....either way I needed a Chevy 2 oil pump - door number one was sectioning a stock pan the back 4 inches up to the shorter pump and modifying a pickup to effectively make a center sump pan.....would have sacrificed capacity unless I further modified it - door number 2 was cheat again and use a Chevy 2 pan and notch the frame - the route I went

There are kits out there from shoebox central and POL that lift the front enough to clear the sump, but this was not an option for me as I needed the motor as close to the "original" location as possible due to using the stock clutch pedal, rear mount, and shifter linkage. If you're going automatic and want a kit, get the shoebox central one - it comes with a tab for the trans cross member too - they sell a modified hump, but the '51 hump has more clearance than the 49-50 and may work as it though - good luck

 

Very nice frame work, and thank you for the insight!