Hot Rods (Not so) Good Vibrations... help!!

T5,,,or clutch is my bet.
Those T5s are good transmissions ,but have been known to wear out like anything else.
Since it was not a new piece,,, I would suspect it unless you are 100 % sure it is perfect.
If the vibration increases when you push the clutch,,,it seems awfully su****ious to me.
Good luck!!!

Tommy

 

The first question with vibrations is where do you feel it? The 99% answers are if you feel it in the steering wheel it comes from the front suspension/steering and if you feel it in the seat of your pants/car body it comes from the drivetrain/rear of the car. From your description I think you've got that part down. Is there a noise that accompanies the vibration that occurs at the same frequency as the vibration? Can you drive past the vibration or does it continue to get worse as speed increases? Like Casey Riley asked is the vibration vehicle speed sensitive or engine/trans gear RPM sensitive? Because the vibration increases when you let off or coast, it leads me to believe you have excess play or backlash somewhere. Under load most of it is taken up until you reach a speed where its harmonics cause the vibration. When you let off, the play has full range of motion and the vibration maximises. Can you create any vibration by letting off above or below the speed the vibration normally occurs? One thought occurs since this is a mix and match car, are the trans front bearing retainer and the register hole in the bell housing the same size? I don't know about Australia but in the US there were a couple of different sizes over the years.

 

Alllllrighty so I jacked up the back end, cranked up the motor and stuck it in 5th to get the wheels spinning in the air. Bingo. It turns out that I have a buckle in the right side rear axle there’s about 1/4” runout and 1/4” side to side wobble. I knew there was a reason why this 10 bolt was so cheap dangit. Time for new bits. Gotta find me an axle for an 8.5 posi I guess! Unless there’s a better way?

 

I see that you have probably solved your problem, but I was half way through writing this, so I thought I might as well finish it anyway, in case there is anyone else with a vibration issue.

I am happy to learn that you have solved the problem, but disappointed to know that it is going to require you throwing more money at the car to fix the problem.
Over my driving years, I have experienced the kind of vibration that happens within a speed range of between 45-65 mph, and it has always been a harmonic imbalance in a tire.
I have even had my tires balanced on the expensive balancing machines, not within the last 5 years however, and I don't know if it is the person doing the balancing or what, but I have ended up still having the problem. I know a spe******t in the business, a buddy that I have known for over 60 years, and he told me that is not that uncommon for a tire to, either have a misaligned steel belt, or on biased ply tires, a tire that was not properly placed in the mold. Another possible cause of this type of vibration, is a treat separation, from a poorly constructed tire, over inflated, or run flat for any period of time. This problem is more common than most people think.
So if you do get a vibration in that speed range, it is always worthwhile to swap your tires from front to rear, to see if that makes a difference in the type of vibration you are experiencing.
Another important fact to remember, is that you can have a dynamically imbalanced tire, but still have a perfect static balance.
I am now using balance beads in two of my cars, and that solves the problem. The ceramic beads are a little pricey, but they always solve the problem, and are interchangeable when the tires need replacing.
Bob

 

Ford 8.8

Stronger than a 10-bolt. Solid flanges on the axles, that can be re-drilled for about any pattern.

Lots of ratios, often limited-slip, discs if you want.

 

What vehicles and what years might fit well under a '53 Chevy with fender skirts? (I know nothing at all about Fords, especially newer ones.)
I have an S-10 4x4 rear under my '53 but I would like a lower ratio, something around 3.00 or even 2.73ish.

 

An S10 4x4 rear axle is 58".

A 1993-2009 Ford Ranger 8.8 (make sure you don't get a 7.5!) is 58-1/2".

 

Get farmiliar with the difference between a 7.5, and an 8.8. The center section of an 8.8 is substantially larger.

Here are the ratios, and brake choices from the Ranger:


This is an aftermarket axle, but the stock ones look like this. There are no extra access holes in the flange to prevent you from drilling a new pattern. Also, the back side of the flange is fully machined, so there is no need for a secondary machining operation to spot face the new holes so the new studs sit flat. They just automatically do.

My Falcon has an 8.8, from an earlier Ranger, that I re-drilled the pattern on.