Technical Not to be left out, the all inclusive Flathead thread

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/flathead-cam-recomendations.808686/

 

I don't think you can make this decision until you have decided what kind of car you are putting the engine in and have a good idea of the other modifications. To be extreme, you wouldn't want to use the same cam in a 1200 lb modified with a 296 ci full race engine as you would in a Merc "Lead Sled" with a close to stock engine. When I built the '51 Merc for my '51 Ford club coupe, I came to the conclusion that the stock Merc cam was the best choice in my particular situation. This came after a lot of research and interaction on the forums.

 

You’re thinking of building a flathead you say? Well, if that’s the case then you can always dream big. Exhibit A.


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

If you manage to pull this off, would you please post the details of your build? I think thousands of guys have missed this mark over the years.

 

Dad and Colby came by my shop this morning. We covered a lot topics about flatheads and banjo rears.

In typical fashion, dad made fun of me for throwing away money on a no HP Flatty and people wonder why I am the way I am.....

someone asked about what vehicle, it depends on if both engines are salvageable. If they are one would be for a 1936 Ford pickup, that would be close to stock.

If I build one for myself, it would be in a model a roadster probably. It would have to be full on hot rod.

 

If it worth doing, it’s worth overdoing.....

 

I whole heartedly agree

 

A good cam to consider is the L100. I believe someone is still grinding them but I do not remember who.

I find it difficult to build a motor with a stock cam. Not saying there is anything wrong with it.

 

I have the same affliction.

 

Adam that is one good looking flatty, I had to hit the like as much as it pained me to do so being an inline Chev. 6 guy.

 

Thanks Robert!

 

So, here's a hypothetical question:

With todays oils and modernized parts like rings, bearings, water pumps etc. and with all of the recommended maintenance, just like you are supposed to, driven responsibly, not thrashed on (well maybe a little) :

What do you think the life of a freshly overhauled 24 stud, flatty might be? I know this os one of those questions, but what do you project? 20K, 50K 100K?

 

I think you could do between 50 and 100k if you dont do over a 4" crank and keep the bore to 3 5/16 or less. Big bores get hot and the walls get thin. Also once that piston skirt starts dipping below the bore your compromising some longevity. Just the opinion of a guy that thrashes the fucking shit out of flatheads.

 

So guys. Can any of the flat head knowledgeable folks
on the hamb tell me just what a 59L motor is. I have been
told it might be a Ford factory replacement motor for the
59 series. Others have said it is a truck motor of various
years. No one seems certain of what 59L indicates. I have
one and would like to know more about the motor. Anyone?

 

Hope things work out for you on those two engines. Flatheads are different, and I’ve spent way too much time on learning what I could, and I’m just scratching the surface. Found books lacking in lots of info I thought would be there. This forum and The Barn, are invaluable in filling in the gaps. Yes, it will be more expensive than a SBC or most other mass produced OHV engines, but I’m hoping that it will give you more smiles per mile. Some inspiration... Lol! Good luck!

 

All the odd L, Y, X, Z designations on the bellhousing are rumored to be tougher/thicker/higher nickel than the regular 59A blocks. But nobody has been able to provide proof. Some guys have measured the cylinder walls, but I can't remember where the results were published. Some say they were originally produced for trucks, school busses, and tanks, but again no concrete proof has ever been found. Bruce Lancaster was the master on this sort of thing and he couldn't provide any paperwork on their origins or purpose.

Just enjoy them for the mystique.

 

Ive heard theyre all factory relieved then was told that isnt true. Ive heard they have thicker cylinder walls for commercial vehicles and have heard the L is a foundry designation and the iron has a higher nickle content. Ive been unable to confirm any of these claims. The short answer is while ive heard the explanations youve heard and others, ive confirmed none of them.

 

I had a 59L, it was relieved. That is the only difference I could see. Granted I did no metallurgy testing.
3 5/16 X 4 ran just fine.

 

Mine was relieved from the factor also.
This one was bored at .120.
Here’s some good flathead info.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/whats-the-best-ford-flathead-to-build-on.712229/

Here’s my 59L first fire and first run

 

Petejoe,
Good videos there ,,,I like it .
I also like the engine paint combo .
Red block and black heads,,,,,looks good to me.

Tommy

 

Best one I put together was a stocker in a 1950 Business coupe.....wasn't going to win any races but the sound and driving one makes a difference.....oh and the smiles from the folks as most have never heard a flattie as well !

 

Well my buddy @guthriesmith dropped off a pile of Flathead stuff. I think I should have taken the hint when he offered to deliver it and then was laughing as he drove away.....

 

Just hoping it can work out for Colby. I knew I wasn't likely going to do anything with it anytime soon or ever... You have to at least admit that the price was right anyway.

 

MAN, just look at the pile of stuff he just gave you! That is a plethora of gold until you sort through and clean it all up. Then. Who knows.

 

I’m sure it is pure gold under all that grease and dirt.

In all honesty, pretty sure it is a very buildable flathead. I got it from another friend that pulled it from his 40 Merc to rebuild. He looked everything over after pulling it apart.

 

Like I said. GOLD!

 

I sent him a text with that pic this morning and told him if his grades weren't up by the end of the year, I would build it for myself. That's more of a motivator than grounding. He promised at least all B's and C's by the years end. He's a typical gearhead.

I'll put him to cleaning everything soon.

Thanks again Jeff.

 

Here is an article on carbs and intakes that I found while looking into whether a flathead was the way to go or not.
It is interesting that the Edelbrock slingshot does so well against all the other more conventional manifolds. The article has a good description of the test engine as well. I think a flathead with some moderate upgrades running through a T5 transmission is a reasonable set up. Bishop has a great article on the HAMB on porting and polishing the block. I can't remember if it is as well detailed in his new book that you have which is a very good book.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-1301-flathead-ford-intake-manifold-smackdown/

 

I've got close to 70,000 on mine with no signs of any problems. All I've done is change oil regularly. 276 cu in., Winfield cam and Holley 390 cfm carb.