I've cobbled together my fair share of shitpiles over the years but last night I was putting the finishing touches on a 360 install in a 1978 Ramcharger. Trying to get it done for a spare four-wheeler in case we get snow this winter like we have for the last 2 years. Got it all installed and went to start it, would crank but no spark. Monkeyed with the wires on the coil, (had forgotten to tighten one) and went back to start it and nothing with the key. Still had all accessories working, lights, fan, etc. Could jump it with screwdriver across the starter posts and started right up. Ran well too. After patting myself on the back and before I choked from the fumes I shut down for the night. Turning the key back shut off the engine. I figure with the wealth of knowledge on this board someone will have an answer. With turning the key, no clicks at the solenoid or anything so I'm thinking starter switch or loose wire from switch to the solenoid. Worked on a lot of Chevs and appreciate them more after working on this Dodge. So nobody burn me to bad, not too on topic but not far off either.
I just changed headers on my 84, and had the same thing happen. Turns out that even though the nut was tight, the cable was still loose. So I reefed harder to make better contact. Haven't been out to mess with it in a couple weeks though. Did you hook the little wire up too? I forgot that one once. Also, the usual shit... battery ok? Corrosion? Opens? Wires broke? Just trying to throw out some ideas. Jay
Sounds like a bad solenoid to me. You have a good run circuit but no start circuit until to jumper the posts.
Make sure you have your ignition wires on the battery side of the solinoid, or it will never close to give you ignition power. wich would explain why it will run when you jump it with a screw driver.
your Dodge has a starter relay. It should be on the driver fender and look like a horn relay. They take a dump all the time or that's been my experience. Cheap part at the local autoparts. I'd give that a look.
I agree with the solenoid, if it starts when you jump a screwdriver across the posts you are getting current but the switch in the solenoid is not closing the circuit. They are not expensive.
The starter worked fine in the Monaco I pulled the 360 out of. Never clicked, never slipped. I am thinking loose wire or the the relay. I bench tested the starter before I put it in too and the solenoid worked fine. There is no click at the starter either when I turn the key. Making me think that it is not getting any juice at all. If the solenoid was bad, would it not click?
A bad solenoid probably wouldn't click at all when the key was turned to "START". My bet is either you have a bad relay (solenoid), or...a loose/missing/broken wire from the key switch TO the relay, or just a dirty/bad connection at the relay. Use a test light on the 'trigger wire' from the key to the relay. If it lights when you turn the key to "START", then the wiring is fine...you just need a new relay (solenoid).
I suspect your problem is with the park/neutril switch. When you replaced the motor, did you disconnect and reconect the three spade terminal on the transmissions driver side just above the pan? The wiring for the P/N switch is on the fender mounted soloniod, it should be a single male spade terminal on the relay, towards the motor, my Hanes book says there should be a red 14 G wire that connects to it. If the wires are all hooked up, try it with the trand in neutril. Gene