so we're installing the front end on smiley's A coupe and for whatever reason, the tie rod is hitting the wishbones. we have a SB 4" dropped axle and cast 4" dropped arms. should clear right... not. we cant put the tie rod on top because of the front motor mount and we cant bend the arms down so we figger its time to "notch" or "clearance" the wishbones to clear. JustinB gave one suggestion on how to go at it, just curious what if any other solutions there might be floating around in HAMB land. thanks.
have you tired deep drop steering arms? should put the tie rod below the wishbone. FYI , the steering arms are forged ,so you can tweek them a bit
its real simple. there's not enough drop in the 4" dropped steering arms, so the tie rod is up against the bottom of the wishbones before the tie rod ends are all the way up in the steering arms. i need to clearance the bottom of the 'bones so that i can install the tie rod... so i'm looking for ideas on accomplishing that. unless there's some other good idea that i didn't have.
Pay attention. It's already been posted that they are forged so you can drop them a bit further by heating an bending them. Frank
You could also source a pair of Willys tie rod ends. They have an inch or so of drop built into them. However, they're not cheap if you can find them. Just a thought... How much room do you have to gain? If it's not much, you might try gently heating that area of the bone and adjusting it slightly with a hammer. If it's any more than a small fraction of an inch, you're probably better off cutting an area out and moving it up. Remember to make it large enough, the tie rod travels fore and aft slightly as it moves side to side.
yeah, i looked into that, but then we have to re-do the tie-rod and then we get into scrubline issues... we probably need at least 1/2" clearance. JustinB suggested notching and plating, but i'm trying to avoid that at any cost. i found out where the arms came from, so i think i'm gonna see if they'll swap 'em for some forged deals.
You always go with hairpins and go through the middle. I have also seen old wishbones that have been modified with a hole in them and then reinforced.Would look better than notching the bone.
Hey Alteredpilot, If I am reading your post correctly, you have a superbell 4" drop axle with superbell 4" dropped arms. Won't work with your setup, so much for the obvious. I have a pair of magnum forged deep drop arms that clear the wishbone with a magnum 5" drop. I can measure the drop when I get home if you want.
its a superbell axle and some other arms. i'd appreciate the measurements... brianangus... quit showing off...
I didn't do this. I found it while prowling the internet, and was so blown away by the "different factor" that I copied it and saved it. I am sure it probably works great, its just that I would never have thought of it!!!
I think Magnum make "extra deep" dropped steering arms for use with their 5" dropped axle. http://www.thehotrodcompany.com/shopnow/show_item.asp?product_id=2663
You could always bend the tie rod at the ends, similar to the shape of the dropped axle. Doesn't affect anything other than clearance.
Seen spacers under the steering arms under an F100 with a dropped axle that spaced the tie rods about 1in lower. Not what I like, but---- Also seen 46-48 wishbones used, the ones with the bend in them, just turn over, or swap sides until ya find the right combo. And yes, you might have to pie cut the bones to do this. Thats two ideas. Good luck
I had the same problem. If you use 46-48 wishbones they have a jog in the front that gives you a half inch or so. It worked for me. I looked at notched bones too but I needed too much thats why I switched bones.
I pie-cut & welded my A-bones on a 4" dropped axle and bent/lowered 40's spindle arms, clearance is about 3/4" from the radius.
Those steering arms you've got are designed for hairpins, which is why they dont work. I had the same problem. Ditched the arms and replaced them with straight plate arms from Speedway, but mounted so the tie rod is underneath the arms but clears the top of the 'bones. Worked for me, but if you dont have the clearance on top of the bones you'll have no option but to go with the Magnum 5" arms.
yeah... kinda tripped me out too. i even called the place they came from and asked and they said they are cast...
The 1937-1948 Bolt-on Ford Steering Arms that Speedway sells are listed as cast. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1937-1948-Ford-Steering-Arms,1137.html
The only issue with that is two fold. First many of the tire rods aren't thick enough wall to remain strong enough with bends and second it makes setting toe a real pain in the arse.
so, will the steering arms for a 5" dropped axle work on a 4" dropped with unsplit wishbones on original 32 chassis and 4banger ?
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