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Technical Nova engine block

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by stan by the vice, Mar 20, 2018.

  1. 29moonshine
    Joined: Dec 30, 2006
    Posts: 1,356

    29moonshine
    Member

    would like to see the casting #
     
  2. I have on built right now. The static compressin was calculated to 9.7:1 with decked block, sheet metal gasket and #601 Heads (53 cc chambers)
     

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  3. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 26,715

    Deuces

    Is that with flat top pistons????
     
  4. Casting number. a little ruff but..
     

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  5. Yes.
     

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  6. Thank you, that is tempting but to difficult and expensive now. But tempting...:)
     
    Bandit Billy likes this.
  7. brett4christ
    Joined: Jul 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,497

    brett4christ
    Member

    Casting # appears to be 3862194. Is this correct?
     
  8. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 6,856

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

    I get, 1965-67 , 283. 2-bolt chevy II Nova. Recessed oil filter. Lippy
     
  9. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 26,715

    Deuces

    Ok, now re-calculate the compression with those 1/4" domes and let us know what you get....;)
     
    stan by the vice likes this.
  10. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 6,856

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

    I believe this block will take a 327 crank. Only way to know is drop the pan and look at the bottoms of the bores. Lippy
     
  11. khead47
    Joined: Mar 29, 2010
    Posts: 1,789

    khead47
    Member

    Thought you said Novi !
     
  12. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,694

    56sedandelivery
    Member Emeritus

    Nice little engine you have there! I'd like to find one of those original, Edelbrock TM-1 intakes, the first-run ones, when they were meant for the 283 heads (small runners/ports). I did have one, but it left on the collage-of-parts 350 that was in my 51 Business Coupe. To make routing plug wires easy, I would drill a 1/4" hole through the little "web" at the top/center of rams horn manifolds, and bolt a 4 wire wire loom to it. Then, using straight boot plug wires, I'd run the plug wires over the top of the manifolds; easier than trying to run them under as you and the factory have done; makes working on the engine easier, especially when the engine is hot. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
    stan by the vice likes this.
  13. Shamus
    Joined: Jul 20, 2005
    Posts: 1,267

    Shamus
    Member
    from NC

    My first new car was a '64 Nova SS, silver w/red interior, 4 speed, posi, hvy duty clutch, hvy duty radiator & seat belts (wife said must have for 10 month old son) 283, 195 hp. 220hp was not available so I ordered an over the counter 4 barrel w/intake. Special ordered in March '64 right after the SS option was brought back w/283. Dealer took it to Midas for duals out the back. Got T-boned that August w/2700 miles (totaled).
     
    stan by the vice likes this.
  14. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 26,715

    Deuces

    That ****s!...
    Happened to me once....:rolleyes::(
     
  15. If the bores are straight and within spec just rebuild it. If you have some use for it keep it, they are good motors and if you have no use for it find someone who does.

    They all had steel cranks back then.
     
    stan by the vice likes this.
  16. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 36,009

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Nifty block that some restorer is probably hinting for. On the piston, back in the 60's and early 70's it was pretty much standard procedure for guys to stick a set of pop up pistons in a stock bore no taper block. That and a cam swap was an instant HP gain that helped you beat the other guys around town. ****py unleaded gas put the kabosh on that for the most part.

    Sent from my VS988 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2018
    stan by the vice likes this.
  17. But then you'd have a 307 OMG :eek::D:D:D
     
    Johnny Gee and Dave Friend like this.
  18. Thanks! I didnt know there is different types of TM1. I dont think mine have large ports, actually smaller than many new intakes now. I took a picture of mine when it came from USA this Winter. Good tip about the wires.
     

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  19. The Crank is steel # 3815822, late 283 rods and no number on Camshaft. Hydraulic lifters. Cast unmarked pistons. 010 bearings on the crank rods. Crank looks good.
     

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  20. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,694

    56sedandelivery
    Member Emeritus

    Those rods are actually the second design, small journal, 327 rod. It was/is a popular update for all 265, 283, 327 engines. They're a lot stronger than the earlier small journal rods, although some racers used to use the earlier rods because they are lighter weight to rev quicker. Lots of piston vendors used to sell similar cast pistons for under $100.00 a set. The early TM-1 ports were small to fit the 265/283/some earlier 327 heads; a lot have been port matched, and some rather extensively. Should make for a nice street motor. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
    stan by the vice likes this.
  21. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 26,715

    Deuces

    Here's a pic of that piston.... 57PistonFIEgge (1).jpg
     
    stan by the vice likes this.
  22. Again, just for the archives.. All small journal SBC's are 2 bolt main.
     

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