Hi all Havnt posted in a while but I saw those cut away pictures so I have added some of an engine that belongs to the model a owners club of Gt Britain .We saw this at the biggest indoor classic car show held here in england . The engine is an English Model 'B' 14.9 hp or E14 engine, I believe it dates from 1934.
These cut aways are awesome fellas. Thank you for posting them up for us all to see. I have a question any of you can answer. I feel guilty throwing away bad engines/heads that have cracks or worse problems what do you guys do with yours? Besides scrapping do any of you make yard art or have you found anything else they can be utilized for once they have become "Paperwieghts"? Thanks.-Weeks
Speak to Jim Gordon at Antique Auto Parts Antique Auto Parts Inc <table width="360" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="2"><tbody><tr> <td width="1%" nowrap="nowrap" valign="top">Address: </td> <td> 9103 Garvey Ave, Rosemead, CA 91770 </td> </tr> <tr><td width="1%" valign="top">Phone:</td><td>(626) 288-3131</td></tr></tbody></table> .
He had some there when I visited in September, however I believe there is a 60 day wait at the moment. H&H advertise as having them, but Antique Auto is the source for them.
OK guys its time to order piston for my B it looks like it will be .125 over bore is .100 now. I would like to do .110 or .115 I got my engine guy looking with ROSS the next time he calls them. Do I want to go with the std. ROSS piston or go with a custom shorter lighter piston? I might go custom just to do the thinner rings. Now for the rods what is out there for dream rods I would love to make some Alum. rods at work. I just don't know what bearings to use. Any info on that would be a big help. Would you stroke the crank and use A rods and how much? I have read a lot of post on broken stoked cranks CDO I think you had 5/16 stroke in yours when it broke. So maybe I should only go around .200. The babbitt for my mains is real nice so I will keep that for now. I got 1.730 intake and 1.625 Exhaust valves. The cam is in the air for now. Holy crap my head is going to pop can you tell what has been on my mind this weekend. thanks for any input and .02 cents you might have I should ask all the stuff next mouth but I can't wait later Bill
We run ours out to 4" and run an off the shelf Probe piston. Probe gets their forgings from Ross. We've run worked over stock rods to 5500-6000 rpm with no problems. Our bottom end problems have always been from the crank flange.
Can someone tell me how I remove the gear/bendix from a starter motor? I have one from from a Flathead V8 that I need to replace the broken banger one. It looks like it has been centre punched, by my flathead bendix is held on by key...............PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!
BEEF STEW... what size ring pack do you run? The .125 stock rings that ford used is so big for todays engine world I was thinking custom rods a little longer then stock so I could run a shorter piston to get the weight down on the pistons. My thinking is to make the rods and pistons as light as I can so the crank and babbitt might live longer
The model A bendix is held in by a key too. The out board spring bolt acts like set screw and indexes into a spot drilled hole on the shaft. Remove that bolt and slide the end piece of the bendix off of the shaft. If that will not come of, the end of the shaft is probably mushroomed. This end piece has to come off separately because the key way is only cut in this piece. Remove the key. Remove the helix and gear assy. You should have a bare shaft ( HaHa I said bare shaft) Install the V-8 "barrel type bendix with the gear toward the starter motor. Slide it all of the way on so that the key way is exposed. install the key. slide the bedix back so that the set screw is lined up with the spot drilled hole in the shaft. tighten set screw. Use blue lock tite on the set screw. If you want more piece of mind, peen the end of the threads on the body of the bendix after you have tightened the set screw to lock it in place. .
If the shaft is mushroomed, drive the end piece down toward the starter motor and file a champher on the end of the shaft. You have to remove the end piece and key before the rest of the bendix can come off. .
There is a discussion going on the fordbarn model A forum site about some recent failures with inserted bearings. Just heads up if anyone has interest.
Great info, thanks for the heads up !!!!!!!! Here is the start of the thread: http://www.fordbarn.com/aforum/messages3/521591.html .
There is merit to all that was posted. this statement by the original poster: "Oil pressure at idle was 15, at speed was 45 and still is. I noticed the drop in idle pressure to about 5 psi after a 2500 mile trip in Oregon, which had me on some steep grades in very high heat, but the car did not overheat." Throws another curve in this saga. He states earlier that he set his initial timing with the timing pin and he is running a Pertronics ignition. He assumes the timing was set at TDC, but didn't verify it with a timing light. This is why I like to use a timing mark on the crank pulley and a automatic advance distributor. Just a few degrees of extra advance can make an engine knock. He is not running a lot of compression, but lugging ans detonation under hot hilly driving can happen even with lower compression engines. It only takes one long steep hill on a hot day to starve the oil pump long enough to wipe out a bearing. He also mentions that only the rod bearings got wiped out. If the engine was starved for oil, why weren't the mains ruined as well? Maybe because the rods are the last to get oiled and are the most stressed when loaded going up a steep hill. If the bearings he was using were babbit lined steel as described, the rods could have beaten up the soft plated bearings and exposed the steel base material. It doesn't take long to gawl a bearing journal that way. All this is theory and speculation. No one can tell for sure. Might be a discussion topic for next month. .
I'd have to double check but I think we use standard 1/16" compression rings and a 3/16" oil ring. Like I said before, we use stock length rods and have the pistons made to our spec. Stock rods are actually pretty light and probably safe to use at horsepower levels under 175 hp. The major difference I see between our two setups though is that we run insert bearings on the mains and rods. So what I'm trying to say is that your results might be different than ours. We only race our motors so I can't give you any kind of longevity info.
just got my second model A, it's a '31 coupe, i have a question about the brakes, if i lower the car 2&1/2 inches in the front and the same in the back by installing new leaf springs that are made to lower it, will that prevent the mechanical brakes from working like they should? it has new mech. brakes that work GREAT so i dont really wanna make the switch to juice yet. thanks! here is a pic of her and of the german B mocked up
HI guys I come from sweden, I hoping up my tudor banger. I counterweight my A-crank,what weldingrod should I use to weld on the crank? Do I have to preheat first?Hope you understand my english. Regards Rickard
You might want to ask over at the new "December" banger meet ...new thread http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=422957
Go over to December meeting for answer..... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4620688&posted=1#post4620688
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