Technical Novice Question on King Pin Cotters

I was mistaken on that. It has a repair of some sort, but isn't dropped.

 

If your axle has 2" perch bosses; it is probably a '33-'36 not a Model A.

Easy to add a shim washer between the yoke and bottom of the axle.

I usually cut a hole in a piece of 1/4" plate with a 1-1/2" hole saw, smooth the edge of the drop out, and drill the center out to 11/16". Looks better than the commonly used pair of 3/4" flat washers.

 

Yeah, it may be. It appears to have been narrowed at some point. Apologize for the paint; it will be resprayed black if used.

 

Nice! I may have to "borrow" that idea!

 

^^^^ '47-'48 axle, with the perch bosses milled down in height. Narrowing not so good.

Seems it would be worthwhile to build up around a suitable axle

 

Ditto on the 46-48 axle ID.
33-36 Axle cores are relatively cheap. That narrow and weld job would persuade me to change it out.

 

Just going to say it. It is not a cotter pin .

 

It is, and it is not.

The exact same thing on a vintage bicycle crankset is indeed called a cotter.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cotters.html

Google the term: "split pin" and post a picture of what you find.

 

Over in the UK they call them that, in the very context of an early Ford, so he's not wrong: https://www.smallfordspares.co.uk/products/7w-3115-a-king-pin-7w-103e-upright

https://www.bighealey.co.uk/cotter-pin-nut-king-pin-suf112

 

Whether the cotter could engage or not, I'm glad we got to the bottom/reality of the axle situation! And that's a good thing.

 

I used to work on old bikes with those, which is why I call them cotters. I think I met Sheldon at Harris Cyclery back in the day.

 

He built wheels for me, back in the day.

 

Specifically speaking , we are not talking bikes and this discussion is USA slanted not other countries relative terms. So I am rightfully right . But I would be incorrect if I was drinking a pint in England and discussing bikes , babes and beam axles.

 

So, what are you calling it?

 

More important is getting him safe . So get your cotter issue fixed as I add some semblance of culture added to aid my refinement .

 

Lol I am not cultured enough to be a hoodlum here.

 

A retaining pin/ stop bolt etc. As I said I am not cultured, so I didn’t know it was automotive term in Ol’ England.

 

FWIW, Bratton's calls them locking pins.

 

Green Book says "B 3122 Pin (spindle bolt locking) 28-48".

 

I think "locking bolt" is the preferred nomenclature.

 

I like that, Ford used a long nut on the back of them that acted as a steering stop, do the repro parts include them? Cotter pins are the UK version of split pins IMO. Bob

 

Maybe so, but they have different words for EVERYTHING: boot, bonnet, wings (fenders), dynamo (generator), chips (French fries), the list goes on. AND.... they drink WARM beer!!
Oh.... and they drive on the wrong side of the road!

 

In my world:


Split pin:

Cotter pins:

A Ford type pin or locking bolt also has a raised tang or key to engage the king pin.

 

The late, great Sheldon Brown discussed on the HAMB.
I've seen everything now. (I'm in the bike biz). Carry on.

 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachments/pxl_20220909_191233992-jpg.5507757/

Maybe it is just the camera angle, but the parting line looks to be mighty thin, suggesting the axle is a casting.

Generally speaking when vintage parts like axles and con rods were forged the forging dies didn't t close completely and a bunch of metals oozed out all around the edge. The excess was removed quickly by grinding or shearing.
Here is a picture showing the wide band left after removing the forging flash on axles .

https://www.undiscoveredclassics.com/wp-content/uploads/1972_June_Street-Rodder_005.jpg

 

Some kingpin kits used to include them; they were the same length; but smaller hex than Ford stop nuts. Recent kits just have a plain hex nut.

Definitely a late '47-'48 original Ford forged axle.

No Chinese cast mystery metal repops of those axles.

 

Bratton’s kit has the long nuts.

 

Just find a good 33-36 original Ford axle and have it dropped by Sids, Ansen or someone else on here, get them to also drop the steering arms on a set of original round back spindles, have them install a new king pin set at the same time. It's pricey but will last you forever and be safe, this way you can mock up and build with what you're going to use.

 

Took a while buy I found a pin and long nut. That spot faced area on the spindle is were the two touch.