That is not the VIN, only a production number (model, date, etc.). Canadian cars also did not have the VIN stamped in the frame, but used the engine serial number on the ownership which in the US would also would have been the same number stamped in the frame. As we have all probably experienced, after the third or fourth engine swap, the engine serial number doesn't mean a damn thing. Warren
Huh? The engine number on a Model T was the same number on the registration. And, starting in 1926 it was also stamped on the frame as well.
I built a 31 Chevy touring car from a bunch of scrap. Had to get a Blue VIN tag installed by DMV. As it happens, I got there to see 40 Highway patrolmen getting trained. Of course the 31 was a distraction. No fenders, no wipers, so I was worried. It turned out fine, with a good conversation. They did recommend that I stamp the Blue VIN number somewhere on the frame, out of sight, as a theft precaution. It took me a while to find those stamps, so I posted, knowing that there would be controversy. Happy Building.
Matching numbers to me are like 2 guys at antique car show arguing whether the bolts holding the finders on should have square head bolts or hex head or the poor guy that had his 1961 Corvette that lost points because his fiberglass was to straight. When it was not.t from the factory
Those stamps have been available for years, they are duplicates of the original K.O. Lee stamps that Dealers used when they replaced factory numbered components with new replacements from the factory or Ford authorized rebuilt components. They are perfectly legal to own, how you use them is your responsibility!
I used those to “renew” the poorly stamped originals prior to having my numbers verified for my replacement title. After my dad passed and I took possession, I applied for a lost title so I could keep the original out of state title as a keepsake.
A person goes to buy a Model A, is shown the paperwork, and then wisely asks to see where on the vehicle the number used to register the car can be seen so they can verify they are buying the car that matches the title/ownership. If the present owner is unable to show ANY evidence of the title matching the car ... wouldn't only a fool buy it? Apparently some Model A's were factory stamped on the frame (under the body) ... just sayin'
Yes - the Model A was registered by the engine number. The chassis number was stamped once the engine was in the frame. It was then hidden when the body was installed. Replacement blocks from Ford were blank so they got the car # stamped on them. Rebuilders also would re stamp engines. Those are easy to tell from the machine marks on the pad that was originally rough and as cast. Engine # is critical in Model A fine point judging to pinpoint the exact day to restore the car to.
Not true. Most of the HiPo type engines also got the car VIN stamped on them in the early 60s. The Feds phased in mandatory VIN stamping various parts and a standardized number system beginning in 1968.
2. Intentionally altering a VIN — Vehicle Code 10750 California Vehicle Code 10750 PC makes it a misdemeanor to: intentionally deface, destroy, or alter a VIN, or place or stamp a VIN or other ID number on a vehicle except as assigned by the California DMV.8
Or restamping the original vin/serial (on frame or engine) when the original frame or engine stamping is in need of "refreshing" so the original vin/serial is fully legible once again.
place or stamp a VIN or other ID number on a vehicle except as assigned by the California DMV.8 so if the Cal DMV does not tell you to do it it's illegal.
R/T is reaction time. Should be obvious because it is at the top. Your 'ET' (elapsed time) will be after the 1/8 (eighth mile) and the 1/4 (quarter mile). You will also get times for 60' and 330 (this is the 330 foot mark, or 1/16 of a mile). The MPH part should be fairly easy to understand. Speed at the 1/8 mile traps and speed at the 1/4 mile traps. Now, back to the stamps...........
I couldn’t get an inspection on my 64 Falcon because the driver door with the data plate had been replaced and didn’t match my registration. The VIN I found out later was covered by the fender, usually there stamped in a cutout on the fender on the fender apron. I placed a block of wood under the fender apron with the floor jack supporting it and proceeded to pound away the VIN with the #/letter stamps I borrowed from work. Went back for the inspection and told them it was covered up from 40 years of grime and paint. They were happy for me finding it and I was happy passing the inspection.
Anything can be used illegally . these are intended to stamp a worn vin or whatever you legally want done vintage numbering and lettering on. I don’t see folks chomping at the bit for nut and bolt numbers matching restored model t’ S and a’s we have become jaded as a society , for good reason . But it’s not all bad anyways it’s Friday night , time to unwind from the week
I think I'd stamp Duntov on everything.... I bought an engine (327) from a guy named Honest Tim at an abandoned airport. I asked for a receipt, he said sure, jumped in his truck and peeled off into the darkness. I'm sure he went to get a pen, still waiting 45 yrs later. If you see Tim, I still need the receipt for my build.
This post has nothing to do with VIN numbers in the state of California, but it does have to do with California DRF (stand for Department Registered Frame) numbers. Back in the day, DRF numbers were used on cars and motorcycles, in my case motorcycles, that were assembled from an accumulation of parts. For example, if you had a broken set of cases and a clean title and a set of brand-new engine cases purchased from a Harley-Davidson dealer, you couldn't just stamp the old number on the new cases. You had to turn in the title and proof of purchase of the new cases and the California DMV would give you a DRF number that was to be stamped on whatever part of the frame the Department designated. The location varied from time to time. At one time, it might be on the goose neck, or it might be on the seat post, or it might be under the seat on an upper frame rail. Wherever it was, you could be assured that the officer who stopped you and wanted to check the number because you didn't have an HD factory engine number had not gotten the memo as to where the actual DRF numbers were supposed to be. The policy worked the same way on automobiles. My friend Moose in East L.A. had one of the most beautiful bikes I've ever seen. Much custom work on the frame, tank and fender, and an absolutely gorgeous dark blue, over light blue, over gold, over black, swirled and marbleized paint job with about a zillion coats of clear. He also had a DRF number that was legally stamped into the frame on the seat post. The cop who stopped him wouldn't listen to what Moose was telling him about the location of the number, so the cop took out his pocketknife and started scraping paint off of all the places he thought the number should be. After he looked where Moose had been telling him the number was, his sergeant happened by and informed the officer that he could have saved everybody a lot of trouble if he had just listened to what Moose had to say. There was no recourse for Moose, he rode a custom Harley and was profiled as an outlaw biker, so he just had to take it. California's lack of uniformity in their procedures and regulations has always caused contention in the motorcycle, hot rod and custom crowd.
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