O/T Chainsaw Tiki carving question

I'm back to work on the Tiki bar and want to carve up some logs into Tiki heads for in there. I've got the art skills so the design is not an issue but I've got a 20" chain saw that makes some power and can kick a bit. I don't want to cut of a leg (that's not entirely true...I just don't want to cut of MY leg) so if anyone has any tips, I'd sure appreciate it. It's part of my "traditional" bar so I hope it's not too far off. I really won't be able to finish a car with no hands though. So if you have good tips on this subject, please chime in.

 

Well..I started carving Tikis recently. To avoid the kick...don't let the saw edge get above the middle line of the tip. You should be ok. If you are removing matterial with the tip in tight areas...go slow with very little pressure. if it grabs above the middle line of the tip..thats where you're gonna get a kick.

The best way I can figure...is to lay the log on the ground and roll it with one of your feet as you cut around. This way the saw is away from your face. Wear eye protection and probably a mask and be ***ured **** will fly everywhere.
Tim
MBL

 

I don't suppose it makes that much difference..a chain is a chain, so to speak- but most guys I've seen carving use an electric (or very small gas) pruning saw for the finer details. Just smaller, lighter, & less power. They use a larger saw for the rough-in work. I suspect a shorter bar makes it easier to control cutting depth on the details, too.

One guy I saw used a homemade turntable & controlled it with his foot...he also had a V-cradle with rollers to sit on it, so the log could be placed on its side on the turntable & rotated in two directions. Pretty cool.

 

This is what I do^^^^.....I use a small 16" gas saw and and angle grinder for smoothing the edges....Have your saw SHARP, and it shouldn't kick....
Wear GOGGLES!....sawdust goes EVERYWHERE, esp with the angle grinder (finer dust).....
I've only done tall stumps, so I'd say you'd want to anchor your 'log' so it is stable....if your saw does kick, it won't 'pitch' the log...

R&C had an article on it awhile back too.....

 

Ancient history Tiki stuff: Back in the Paleozoic era, early sixties, Tikis were beginning to leak into hot rod magazines and that's where I noticed them.
I was in school, and had just acquired a set of needle files, a major purchase for me back then. We had LOTS of free time for incon****uous activities during an utterly useless physics cl***, and Tiki production began--using needle files and blackboard chalk behind upraised textbooks, producing Tikis about an inch high! Several kids got really good at this...we discovered that one of the files could be used as a hand drill to hollow the "log", and the hollow interior made mouth and eyes much more effective visually...
I wish I still had examples of this little known art form, the miniature vanilla Tikis of the early sixties!
If that physics teacher had been just a tad more out of touch with the cl***, we could have gotten away with real logs and chainsaws...

 

check http://www.tikicentral.com for a whole forum on tiki carving.

 

I saw a guy up in Wasilla, Alaska use a oxy/act torch to create other details in his work. I've still got one of his bears waving hello in my front flowerbed.

 

Got to be honest, I never use a chainsaw. I only use hand chisels and a hammer, then a Dremel-type grinder to add detail.
Chainsaws are probably great if you know what you're doing with them or are in a rush. Never fancied them myself. I like to take my time.

 

Don't use palm tree trunks, at least not the tall "Beverly Hills" kind (Queen palms), they are full of fibers that are: #1 are a PITA to carve when they are wet, and leave stringy **** everywhere and get in the chain #2, when those fibers dry out, they make the tiki dry out and crack down the middle.

I used a $49 Remington 14" electric from the HD, but it had a safety thing on it, if it kicked, it had a lever with a chain brake right above your hand.

Tim, What do you use for wood?

 

Thanks guys...the input and the Tiki forum is really helpful. I'm also going to be doing some of them in stucco or plaster for the outside bar. I was going to make molds and pour them in concrete but I don't think I can make them thick enough to survive the winter here. The wood wouldn't fair to well here in Indiana rain and winters either I bet .

 

You can get "chain saw" discs,to fit on a small angle grinder.
They work very well.

Just make sure you are using the screw in handle on the side of the grinder,or they have the possibility of launching themselves.

 

I 2nd the Remington electric-20" might be too big for details. I looked at some cool pea****s this guy carved into a cypress trunk yesterday and from the disks on the ground, it looked like a grinder was used. I haven't tried it myself, but should make the work go faster. Post pics of progress.

 

I carve wood,bales etc with a "14 electric...............

 

For some reason the thought of you wielding a chainsaw for no matter what reason frightens me.

I see you running around the yard holding one hand in a towel trying to get a finger away from Larry!

 

57G***er does chainsaw carving, maybe he might have some advice. He'll be doing some tiki carving at the Pileup this year.

 

Yeah, I thought he would just have Larry the Eyebrow chew a Tiki out of a chunk of wood.

 

The tool in this add looks intriguing. I've concidered get one. It shouldn't be anymore dangerous than a body grinder with heavy 80 grit disks, as long as the peice your carving is held down good.

One way is to make a cradel out of 4x4's like in my quick scketch here.

Also With todays ellectric screw drivers it's easy to temporarally screw something down with long sturdy wood screws to a heavy duty work bench a clever turn table or flat stump as long as they're sercure themselves. Check it good before carving and don't forget where the screws are.

 

Check out a place online called Bailey's. Maybe do a search under Bailey's Logging supply? Anyway, They've got a nice Stihl chainsaw. Also, they have a bar with a smaller diameter end on it and a low profile chain. Helps with the kicking. I bought the same setup a few years ago and it works great.

 

I have heard that guys use angle grinders when carving palm or less dense wood. Don't think that it would work well with hardwood...

It seems like you would get more control out of the grinder over a chainsaw, unless you are a lumberjack and use one all the time (queue Monty Python "I'm a Lumberjack" tune).

- Joe

 

Whether you're using an "X" shaped saw horse, which is real nice, or laying wood on the ground, there are a few things to think about.

1. YOUR LEGS! Always concentrate on where they are in relation to the cut you are attempting to make. Make a concious effort to think about this on every cut. One second on your jeans, chaps, or whatever will end your tiki carving career in an instant. (On a side note, for all the anti-chevy motor comments you've made about my Ford, I'd be happy to watch you walk around on a wooden peg!
2. If you do lay your log on the ground, one second of contact with the dirt or asphalt will dull your blade immediately. A sharp blade is a must for doing this right.
3. Electric saws die if they get hot. I've gone through many. When I lived in the city and noise was a issue, I burned up many Remingtons from Home Depot. I bought a second and kept returning them as needed. I moved to where noise was not an issue and started using a gas saw like I usually did in the past, and have no problems.
4. Hard wood will kill your saw. If you live in the midwest where palms and soft woods are not plentiful, Pine is your best alternative. It's sticky when it's green, but with lots of stain or linseed oil, works well. I like to leave the bark on as a protection jacket for blade skips when I'm cutting, then peel it off when I'm done. It leaves a nicer looking skin.
5. Patience. Using a woodcarvers chisel set is nice and safe. My 13 year old daughter is now safely carving Tiki's like a pro with some instruction and leather mallet. When you take your time, you can think a few steps ahead, kind of like pinstriping. A chainsaw is very fast, but it is very easy to get ahead of yourself if you aren't used to making tiki's. And you know, tiki wood doesn't grow on trees. Heh,heh.
6. Tiki Central forum. Mentioned earlier in your post, these guys REALLY know the art. Check out the works of S****y, Ba*****t Kahuna, and Lake Tiki. These guys live this **** like we live hot rods. There are some incredibly talented carvers out there embracing the traditions of the early island impact on the U.S. after WWII like it was yesterday.
7.Since I'm on the Tiki subject, like Hellfish mentioned, I'll be carving tiki's at the Hunnert Car Pileup this year. If anyone ever has any questions, feel free to ask. I had a great time talking to some of you when I was carving at the Road Rocket Rumble and the Tiki Eyeball this year.
8. Do not forget #1! Safety is real important here. The horror movies don't do a chainsaw justice when they cut people up.

Good Luck

Kevin

 

Here's my first Tiki...get some Flexcut chisels..they are expensive but well worth the price.



Tim
MBL

 

On using a chainsaw, I have never "carved" with one but I did make 4 legged chairs out of logs one time.

The thing about keeping the tip on the bottom half is really important as is keeping it sharp. The other bit of advice that I can add is lock your left (right if you're a lefty) elbow. That way if it does kick the saw kicks up over your head and not in your face.

 

Tim,
What all did you use on that one?
57G***er...about your car...hehe...
You know I love that car though and your burnout picture from the Rumble a few years ago when that jack*** pulled out in front of you is still frequently my screen saver at home. That tiki site is pretty amazing. I didn't realize people were quite that into it. Finding non-hardwood here seems to be the issue. I can get huge logs for free and they would certainly weather the outside where palms wouldn't here. It's that pesky thing about killing blades.

 

A friend and I did this one..The main cuts are done with a chainsaw...Just the basic stuff...then the rest is chisels..For example...the eyeball was just flat wood...this is where the chisels come in..The nose was just a triangle..then a couple of hits with a carved chisel, and you got the basic shape..then you shave off wood in certain areas to get the 3D look. Practice...Pactice..and watch out cause the chisels are SHARP!!!!

I couldn't have gotten anywhere without a friend helping me along..so find someone who has done it before and watch closely...Basic Tikis are pretty simple..its when you get into the "Actually Traditional" stuff that it gets harder...Like Maori, Marquesan, and true Hawaiian stuff.
TIm
MBL

 

Oh and here's the thing...I know that this may not be what others have said..but some of the best tiki carvers do use hard woods such as oak. Most palms are too fiberous and make a big mess. Also...you may want to find logs that have been sitting around for a while..no its not the newer logs that may save your saw blade...but...as the log dries, it shriks and then cracks develop. this means that your carving will potentially be ruined by a bad crack in the wrong spot.

If you have a "Seasoned" log, you know where the cracks are and you can plan your carving around it. Start with a simple design and go from there. Oh and learn to sharpen your blade...cause no matter what wood you choose, your gonna need to sharpen it..sometimes more frequently than others.
Tim
MBL

 

I wouldn't use a 20 in saw for thar kinda work.I run a saw everyday for a livin and using the tip is never a good idea !They have special bar for that application with a slightly pointed tip,the smaller the saw the better.Make the rough cuts with a saw and finish the details with chisel or whatever hand tools you want. Linden trees are a nice soft wood to work with,but silver maple would be good also. I haven't done alot of carving on count of I saw all day I'd rater work in metal after work. Good luck and be careful,they do make chaps out of kevlar that will stop a saw, kinda pricey though. Later Rob

 

Here is the latest pic...I added the uvula..in the throat..not sure if you can really see it..but is is all done with the chisels after the fact.


Tim
MBL

 

i've been wanting to do the same thing. i was told they make a chainsaw with about a 6" bar for carving wood. i might look into that.

 

...the guy at the Road Rockets Rumble was using a 20incher.

 

I'm using my 20 next week and giving this a go. I'll try to post it up unless I don't have fingers then.

FYI, I just gave Larry a jar of peanut ****er for a minute figuring it would keep him busy. I can back and it was just the cap and him licking his chops repeatedly. I'm guessing that's not good for him but it's not the first time. I wouldn't eat any buckeyes that you find in my yard for a while.