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Hot Rods Official 1959 Chevy Apache Build Thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 1959apache, Feb 17, 2010.

  1. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,635

    1959apache
    Member

    I spent 4 hours stripping the back of the cab. It was a pain because of all of the little contours. I will have to finish the left cab corner and all the hard to get places tomorrow evening and start stripping around the back window. It is supposed to be somewhat decent this week so I will try to get home one of the nights and get the back of the cab in some epoxy
     

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  2. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,635

    1959apache
    Member

    well I got my rubber washers to shim up my front clip with the help of the misses. I also had to stick in about 5, 1/8th inch steel washers to shim it up properly (probably more are needed) I am going to talk to squirrel about this to see how many he has under his trucks. Overall it fixed most of my gap issues, but since I had to let loose the fender bolts the entire clip has scooted back, but at least the gap is the same all the way down the fender. More to come on this soon, so I can line up the doors and at least be able to open them.
     
  3. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,635

    1959apache
    Member

    Well I shimmed these up, but am still having a problem with body alignment. The body mounts are not rusty, the top bolts are good (no issues), and I have the front shimmed up quite a bit. Does anyone have any idea on what is going on or what I need to add to fix this? Any help is appreciated.
     

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  4. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,635

    1959apache
    Member

    I bought a new drill (7 amps) and holy crap there is a difference, since my crappy old one took a dump yesterday. I stripped the hard stuff on the top side in about an hour. Had I had this the other day I would have had the truck in primer by now.
     

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  5. 55Hydramatic
    Joined: Apr 24, 2011
    Posts: 458

    55Hydramatic
    Member

    The front..as in front of fender, or top of fender where it bolts onto the cowl or whatever??
     
  6. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,635

    1959apache
    Member

    the radiator support has been shimmed with about 1/2 an inch of steel washers and the rubber mounting pads in their correct place and it is still not enough.
     
  7. 55Hydramatic
    Joined: Apr 24, 2011
    Posts: 458

    55Hydramatic
    Member

    Hmm....from the pics it looks to me like the rear of the fender needs to come up some and either the door or the fender needs to move to open that gap up. I'm not sure if thats what you're trying to fix or something else that I'm not seeing.
     
  8. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,635

    1959apache
    Member

    that is what I am trying to fix. I already know that the fender is back because of the hood springs yanking it back. My issue is the fender is sitting too low and find it ridiculous that I need to have 1/2 an inch of shims under the rear fender bolt. I am thinking something isn't correct. Too many body shims?
     
  9. farmer12
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 7,717

    farmer12
    Member

    Looking good there Scott!
     
  10. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,162

    squirrel
    Member

    Are the fenders new? or old? what's their history?

    They usually only need one or two shims at the top rear.

    And you kind of need to have the hood off when you're setting them up.
     
  11. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,635

    1959apache
    Member

    Old fenders, they were blasted, but they kept the heat down. No damage, just rust on the lower firewall side, but were patched correctly. How thick of a shim am I supposed to have on the top rear? How many do there have to be under the body (maybe I have too many there)?
     
  12. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,635

    1959apache
    Member

    thanks Eric, I am getting there...
     
  13. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,162

    squirrel
    Member

    I'll have to look at some trucks when I get home tomorrow. Usually there are a couple under the front of the cab, and one or two at the top rear of the fender where it sits on the cab. Does it look like the mounting tab area has been repaired? or the nut piece that's welded to the cab?
     
  14. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,635

    1959apache
    Member

    No, everything seems to be stock regarding the fender or in the cab mounting areas, no patches or repairs short of what I did to it (I double checked just to be safe). Yeah I can see where I could put in some shims to get it where it needs to be on the top of the rear fender, it just seems really excessive (half an inch). Thanks for checking, you are my go-to man when I don't know lol
     
  15. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,635

    1959apache
    Member

    I got the rest of the rear of the cab stripped. Here are some pictures. I just have to do a couple finishing touches to a couple areas and then go through and weld up my holes, then primer. I was debating about getting part of the roof done, but I think that will be another day.
     

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    Last edited: May 9, 2012
  16. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,635

    1959apache
    Member

    I finished up the rear of the cab as far as stripping, filled in all of the holes, ground them down and finished them off. I also found a couple drum sanders that were small enough to fit on my 90 degree pneumatic angle grinder to get in the tough spots. I taped off the windows, chrome and will try to get the back of this in primer tomorrow evening.
     

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  17. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,635

    1959apache
    Member

    After 2 hours of getting my bed from the blasters, 4 hours of prep work following, and 6 hours of nonstop painting I was able to get the bed, the back of the cab, and a box of misc parts in epoxy. Lordy was it a lot of work. Here are some pictures
     

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  18. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,635

    1959apache
    Member

    Here are some more pictures
     

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  19. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,635

    1959apache
    Member

    Finally the last batch of pictures. I fired the truck up yesterday too and she ran well. I will need to replace the power steering gear box and fix my exhaust and steering linkage before making it a real driver. Other than that everything is going well.
     

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    Last edited: May 12, 2012
  20. Buzznut
    Joined: May 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,349

    Buzznut
    Member

    That looks like a pretty clean strip job, what are you using and what's your technique?

    Also, what brand epoxy Primer are you using? Is that stuff tintable...it doesn't look like primer gray.
     
  21. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,635

    1959apache
    Member

    Well I had two things that I was doing. First I was using the 3M mesh paint and rust remover wheels. That took about 4 hours to strip the bottom half of the cab. My black and decker drill took a dump for the 2nd time so I just bought a dewalt 7 amp wrist breaking drill. This drill is worth the money and frankly cut my stripping time in half. The wire wheel had the top part of the cab stripped in 1 hour and 45 minutes, way faster. Just take your time and do the hard stuff first, like all the contours. Then for the hard to reach places I used my dremel tool with a round sanding drum (very small 1/4 inch drum) and that took care of it.

    The epoxy is a dark gray Dupont epoxy 2570S and 2505S activator. It looks green and this epoxy is non tintable. The high build that goes over it is tintable, so that is fine. I am going to have to probably scuff and shoot more epoxy on all of this stuff before doing any of the body work (filler, etc.) because I have a couple dry spots and used an entire gallon of this primer for both sides of everything. I tried to put some thicker coats on stuff when I got close to the end when I realized I did not have enough. You will need 1 gallon and 2 quarts of the activator since it is a 2:1 mix. Your total for this stuff should be about $400
     
  22. Camaro Mike
    Joined: May 12, 2006
    Posts: 399

    Camaro Mike
    Member

    You've been busy, great progress.
     
  23. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,635

    1959apache
    Member


    Thanks Camaro Mike, I've been trying
     
  24. 55Hydramatic
    Joined: Apr 24, 2011
    Posts: 458

    55Hydramatic
    Member

    Looking good man! I'm getting close to putting primer on mine too!
     
  25. What are these?

    [​IMG]
     
  26. Black_Sheep
    Joined: May 22, 2010
    Posts: 1,499

    Black_Sheep
    Member

    Covers for the kick panel air vents, you can see the right side vent in this pic...

    [​IMG]
     
  27. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,508

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York

    Nice work 1959apache! Sweet interior black sheep.
     
  28. Ah........P.O. replaced the oem kick panels with diamond plate....never new they existed.



     
  29. farmer12
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 7,717

    farmer12
    Member

    Nice work Scott, you're getting there!
     
  30. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,635

    1959apache
    Member


    Thanks apachegail!
     

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