Technical Offy Manifold Interfering With 3 on the Tree

That was useless... No help from them.

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Wonder if it's possible that you could move the engine and trans mounting just s skosh to the right. And then maybe move the steering column just a wee bit to the left? Do you have an open driveline? What kind of shape are the cab mounts in? Any evidence that there's been any frame repairs?

 

If you shorten the lever at the shifter you will need to shorten the arm at the trans the same amount to get the same amount of movement. that is what I would try first if it was mine

 

It's just because it's a aftermarket dual carb setup.

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At this point I'd grind until it clears, weld it if it goes threw and then post what you did so the next guy who finds out it doesn't fit has a way out also

 

Upon looking more at your problem, I have welded up intake manifolds all the time including making them up. You could notch the end or corner of the manifold and weld in a piece of 1/8" or 3/16" aluminum but first get those bushings in good order.

Pat

 

Yep... and it probably fits fine in a car chassis. They probably weren't so worried about how it fit around the column shift linkage in a p/u truck.

 

Hi. You are overthinking the problem way too much. This is a very simple fix.
EITHER drill a new hole and cut off the end of the upper shift arm OR bend that upper arm toward the firewall until it clears the manifold. It is no big deal at all.
When you get this done with the tranny in neutral the 2 arms should be relatively in the same plane with each other. If one is higher than the other you either adjust the rod on the bottom end to equalize this by either adjusting the rod if it has a threaded adjustment OR by loosing the locking bold on the clamp around one of the shift arms on the side of the tranny and rotating it to level the upper arms.
Jimmie

 

Thank you very much, and this is what I'm going to do and will post the results.

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I had to run errands but just returned and looked in my Chevs of the 40's catalog & in the new paper catalog on page 115 are two different shift linkage bushing sets. # 3654430 is a 4 piece set for 1940 - 48 Chevies. One piece goes above and below each arm on the rod to take up the slack. $11.00
The other set is 365244 & is also a 4 piece set. $17.00
It appears the sets are different sizes.
Their website is www.chevsofthe40s.com and you can order from the website but I would recommend calling to make certain they will fit the truck. They are in Washington state & default shipping is UPS ground or if you are in a hurry you can request small flat rate box priority mail. The difference is likely 6 days or 3 day shipping.
I think these plastic parts are a bit pricy but at least they have them. One time I had to have a set right now and I drilled out threads on a 1/4" brass nut and filed the hex to round and they worked great with a thin washer on each side to keep them in place.
I have bought many items from these folks and have had great luck with their stuff. It is all aftermarket re pop stuff.
I did look in my Filling Station paper Catalog www.thefillingstation.com and they do not list these bushings there.
In case something messes up in either bending or shortning the arm at least it will be very easy to make another. Neither of these sources shows replacement arms...
Good luck, Jimmie

 

Don't grind on a pretty aluminum manifold when the fix is so simple. Bend the damn arm in a shallow "Z" (one shallow bend close to the column shift shaft, and another at the same but opposite angle at the shift rod end) so the linkage clears. Then install the bushings that are supposed to be there. It'll shift better, and you might have an annoying rattle or two that goes away.

 

Yes, I did not want to grind the manifold either. [emoji15]

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Making your own bushings works, too. I use old, hard rubber fuel hose & thin stainless washers to remove all slack. I also take the H-box apart, clean everything, weld up & re-face any worn areas, & take all the end play out of it by shimming. It's easy to do & makes a huge difference, especially if it's been hanging up on the 1 - 2 shift.

 

Floor shifter.

 

As long as that design for the Offy has been around, and as many Carter/Weber's that Langdons has sold, call Tom and ask him. The answer is out there....

 

A thought just outside the square:
Have you made sure that your engine and trans mounts are in good condition? If the rubbers are too soft, the engine could be sitting in a lower position than intended, or even leaning one way or the other if one mount is rotten.

 

^^Exactly this.^^

 

Rick, thank you for the information. I just bought this truck 6 months ago it did not realize it when I bought it but going to fix it now.

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Okay, will be tackling this during the weekend...Will supply updates.

 

Whew! ...when it's so simple...

 

Friends like you who needs enemies???



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Your making good progress Matt. None of us were born with mechanical knowledge, just aptitude of varying degrees. The world is full of those that attempt to show their superiority when it comes to certain things. Those types have never had to ask for help! *wink*

Go for it, you will get it worked out. Let us know how this turns out!

 

That big old square thing that squashes the shift rod on to the arm looks like it could be modified to be much smaller. Which would help you out when you bend the arm to clear the mainafold. I would not grind on the manifold. And yes. That really needs a bushing. Might look at the other one while your at it.

 

Okay everyone I don't think I have enough room to bend this and have it go in to all three gears plus reverse.

I have plenty of play in the rod from right to left that goes down to the transmission.

Do I take this plate out and drill a new hole to the right of the current hole? Or do I try to drill a new hole while it's in its current position???







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Ordered the bushings and thanks for the information. [emoji3]

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Looks like you got it. The new hole can be drilled in the lever without taking the H-box apart if you choose not to freshen it up. You can also drill the new hole same size as the swivel to eliminate the bushing. Remember the lever on the trans has to be shortened or re-drilled to retain same travel as before.

 

I was going to actually freshen up everything but I can't get the bottom plate for the reverse gear off. From my manual it looks like it should just slide off the the H-Box shaft...


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Matt, there's a saddle plate & two 5/16'' bolts under the box. Unhook the shift shaft. Pull the box to work on it. Trying to fix it in the truck will wear you out, believe me.

 

Working on it now...

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