Hey Kids. I'm going to repaint my car soon, and I had a few questions. This is the 3rd time painting it (first time was Hot Rod Black Primer, lasted 1 season before turning gray and streaky, but it was only $29 a gallon! Second time was that bumper paint, it had way too much texture, and was way too shiny, so it got hit with scotchbrites and looks like shit), and I want it to be the last. I'm thinking 2 stage with either a flat or satin clear. Does anyone have pics of cars painted with either? I'd like to see how shiny the "satin" actually is. How does it hold up (I know it should hold up great, but just checking!)? Also, what brands/part numbers would you guys reccomend? Here in MI we can get pretty much anything, we don't have the Cali EPA Nazis!!! Thanks for any info guys (and girls)!!!
Most black primers tend to fade after enough sun exposure anyways. Personally I think on right car the faded, streaked black primer looks awesome. Two Lane Blacktop '55 Chevy..... For $29 a gallon, why not re-do the primer every season? Gives you more practice spraying and opportunity to do more bodywork and such. Also, where do you get that primer that cheap? I'm paying $50 a gallon or more out here in Calif for shit like that. If you don't want to do it again and again, I heard you could shoot a black two stage paint, and not shoot the second stage. Leaves it with a 'matte' finish.
Its available at any "Auto Value" chain stores (don't know if you've got 'em out there or not!). It gomes in a 1 gallon can, just like a thinner can (with the metal strap handle),and it's just called "Hot Rod Black". As far as painting it every season, I don't have enough time to work on it as it is, and any time that I DO get I would rather work on makin it faster!!!
Stay away from putting a flattened clear over a black base. I did it on my pops RPU and had a real mess. It came out too shiny but had a milky look to it. I quickly sanded it and covered it with a flattened black paint. I used PPG it is the same as the 2021 clear but in black. They said the formula is for bus and helicopter hoods. It's been this way for about 4 years now. It still looks great. It wasn't cheap but worked great. Here's the RPU. Clark
Paint it John Deere green...tough, easy to spot in a crowd, and it's SUPPOSED to be glossy! I can hear the country song now... "They were Flint kids, on their hineys, Met in that town, in the nineties, Everyone knew it was love from the start... One July in midnight hour, He got ready to give a paint shower. Stood in the driveway and covered a Chevy car... ...in John Deere Green, on a hot Summer night... Because he loves his machine. And the whole town said the boy shoulda used red, but it looked good just fine to heem! In John Deere Green..." with apologies to Joe Diffie
Just used some tintable PPG "primer" called CRE-CT...industrial coatings division...can be tinted to any color desired...sprays really well...about $65 a gallon with catalyst...fills scratches nicely, blocks a bit like paint...not the easiest sanding stuff in the world of talc laden "I-don't-wanna-sand-tuff-stuff" primers...but the best part of it all is that it's WATERPROOF and corrosion resistant!!! You end up with a satin finish which can be "toned down" if you don't like it by using more reducer...or a scotch brite! R-
Dupont has a new custom paint line called Hot Hues. They have a product called "hot rod black" in the line. Single stage. I haven't seen it in person so I can't comment on it's % of gloss. My favorite so far is Standox's Rallye Black.
[ QUOTE ] Have you thought about John Deere Blitz Black? Some of the guys have used it and like it. [/ QUOTE ] I like it................
40Stud is on the right track!! Use a water proof primer, or satin single stage paint. Just using regular primer is going to catch up to you in time. Primer is pourus and allows moister to the metal. Keep'um alive
I still prefer Zero Rust Black which dries to a satin. With just a touch of clear in the final coat it will resist UV for years. The best thing is that it can be painted directly over rust so perfect prep work is not required. If you want color just use the ZR White and have it tinted.
I think it's best to spray the car down with a NICE filling primer like ppg k36, wet sand it with a 320-400 till it's smooth as a BOY BAND singers ASS... You use a GOOD primer it won't sand and leave PIN HOLES. it will sand and LOOK like GLASS..... Non of that READY MIX SHIT, or that JUST THIN SHIT..... although I have TINTED BUFF primers before with excellent RESULTS.......... Then get yourself a really nice couple of QUARTS of 2 stage VOLKSWAGON black, (new JETTAS) etc etc,,,, I believe a PPG brand makes a good one, (I can get numbers),,,,,,,,, You are going to shoot the 2 stage But then NOT CLEAR IT....... I usually shoot RM paints myself... but they are getting scarce in my HOOD... when your ready to paint. Mix up all of it in a MIXING POT so it is MIXED the SAME... MIXING everytime your GUN emptys allows more time for ERROR when your a HOBBY PAINTER........... Set your GUN so your PATTERN is PERFECT, and SPRAYS uniform top to BOTTOM when it fans,,, run some test PASSES a few times till you are COMFORTABLE..... Get yourself a HARBOR freight 49 dollar gun, it is GREAT for a STARTER... I painted an AUTORAMA KANDY BLUE best of paint winner with THIS GUN".... so it can be done.... Hvlp top feed would be BEST, cause a NOVICE as yourself will get COMFORTABLE really quick... The KEY here is CONSISTANT passes. and SPRAY it kinda HEAVY to avoid the DREADED "LIGHT COAT DRY SPOT PASS" bullshit that will look GREY"..... Make sure when you SPRAY heavy you JUDGE your PASSES to keep timing down to avoid runs..... Keep your PASSES THROUGH, try not to STOP until you cross a PANEL... I dont care what the PROS SAY.... Thats the BEST way for a STARTING guy to NOT make MISTAKES... SPRAY through the PANEL................ They might argue but fuck em,, They TALK like PAINTING is the HARDEST thing in the WORLD so they feel special about a TALENT they HAVE.... Its like JACKING off with your LEFT hand so it feels like someone else is doing it......... I taught myself, and have PRODUCED show WINNERS.......... 2 coats. is enough and let dry.... Then LET DRY for 3 days or so before you drive it or get it wet..... It will LOOK like a SATIN should LOOK, and when A painter looks at it, he will KNOW that you went BALLS deep and DID your SCHOOLWORK... instead of CUTTING corners....... Sure theres CHEAPER ways and yeah they CAN LOOK good but theirs also HIDING eyes that SEEM to seperate the MEN with PASSION from the BOYS with SMALL cheap COCKS........... I have used PRIMER that is NON POROUS, it works but when a bird shits on it, or a tree cums on it, it leaves SPOTS.... A good 2 stage with NO CLEAR dries UNIFORM and can be washed..... JOHN DEER WORKS good, and even RUSTOLEUM SATIN BLACK in the QUARTS WORKS( it is actually GREAT if you never intend on PAINTING a TOP COAT. But if you do,you will have to REMOVE every single BIT of that SHIT as it has some amount of PETROLEUM base) ZERO RUST I havent used, But would if a DEALER would send me a SAMPLE. I used RUST BULLET from the VEGAS BOYS on a 32 frame, AND IT FUCKING ROCKED........... My advice is to GET a FEW BOOKS, read a FEW BASICS, have a few beers... Make sure you USE A GOOD wax and GREASE remover right before you PAINT, and dont use that CHEAP as SHIT that feels STICKY, The PAINT STORES push the AIRCRAFT brand on you,,,,,,, It's CRAP and looks YELLOW on the PAINTER CLOTH............. they make one that EVAPORATES and GOES on smooth, it's a PPG brand..use a PAINTERS towell. not an OLD T-SHIRT or a PAPER TOWELL, LINT SUCKS, always SUCKS.................. My way you will spend more money.. I'm just a PART TIME PAINTER, But I feel like I know my stuff, cause I paint anything, and have BLOWN DOORS when people veiw my serious jobs..... read up and you will be fine...... You asked and thats what I think XOXOXO GERM
Good post Germ. I just resprayed my coupe on Sunday. I used Krylon BBQ Black. It goes on decent and looks, to me, like a flat black hot rod should look. I did the first coat in Rust-oleum BBQ black. Don't use that. It is real gray and chalky.
I would have to recommend RM DP-21 it is a tintable sealer that is waterproof and goes on smooth and satiny. My friend and life long painter suggests this method I'm not certain on fad resistance but he says it is very good.
So Germ, if you have to strip all of the John Deere stuff of before you spray something else, how did 1lowdelivery get the flames on his ride? What your talking about is spraying basecoat without the clearcoat. Basecoat does not have any UV protectors (or very little) in it. The clearcoat is what protects it. What this means is that the sun will break down the basecoat and it will appear chalky. When this happens, you really have no choice but to strip it all off before you respray or you will have a delamination problem (the new paint won't stay stuck). The other problem with basecoat is that it is not very durable or chip resistant. Most basecoats do not have very good chemical resistance either. Just my opinion, but if your looking for a long term flat black (or any other color) solution, you are best off to go with something more durable than basecoat. I'm not knockin' your whole post, you've got some good advise, but I think you might want to do some research on the chemical aspect of the paints that you have mentioned. Been painting cars (show and production) for over 18 years.
i dissagree with GERM, you should learn it right the first time. if you overlap your passes and spray out your pattern each time you will get build up and potential runs, not to mention the overspray that accumulates at the end of your pass creates a terrible texture. anyone can spray an autorama winner after you sand and buff it for a year. if you do it right you can spray a show winner with no effort. if you spray down basecoat with no clear, add a capfull of hardener to it and it will last alot longer. if you want it more durable but not quite shiny mix half flattened clear and half base coat, spray it thin and a little farther away with a large fan. this will duul the finish and give you a uniform finish that has element protection.THINK germ, you are winning shows the hard way,if you learn the right way you would be unstopable. im not dogging on Germ it just reminds me of when i was coming through the ranks and no one would help me, it set me back for awhile. then i learned how to aquire information and became the top of my trade. dont settle for half ass just cause it might work for awhile.
stopped by the john deere dealer. blitz black is $36.00 a gallon. the guy behind the counter says he painted his hotrod with it. he say's it holds up really well.
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