Hot Rods Oh No I F$%*ed up!!!! Ansen Wheel Help Needed!!!

Alright so I am trying to get my roadster back on the streets and I have been working on the rear wheels trying to get them polished and in shape before I have the tires mounted. Through out polishing the whole lip and rim I have been fighting to get the spokes cleaned up. I have pretty much tried everything from numerous wheel cleaners and degreasers as well as green scrubbies. So tonight I got this dumb idea to see if a wire brush cup on a drill would take it out.....well it did and the paint and gave a couple great scuffs and swirls on the spokes also. Shit!!!! Shit!!!! Shit!!! Does any one know of the correct color or paint that was applied to the Ansen wheels originally? I heard Cast blast but that from what I see has more of a gun metal grey look instead of the slight gold Champaign color that was on there. I need help PLEASE!!!!

Before I fucked up...



You can see the spots that I was trying to get out in this one...



The aftermath of my destruction...



You can tell just how blotchy they are if you really look hard. You can also see the scuffs and swirl marks.




Was it as stupid as I think it was? Or is it just going to need a coat of the correct paint to be back to tip top shape?

 

wipe it down with a greasy rag

 

Have you tried WD-40?

 

mine done in cast blast, I like the look

 

they sell paint that is supposed to mimic the stock look

they sell it here at vato zone

 

I actually use WD-40 while sanding them so that has been tried. The cast blast looks nice but it's not the correct color I was looking for. I may try it as a last option.

Big Dad, do you know if these wheels were anodized from the beginning or was it paint. I'm going to see what I can find today at Auto Zone and such.

 

I'd guess it was just paint ..

Good news is, after doing it ..you don't like, you could remove the paint

You could do as others say and let them mature to a natural color

 

Have used Easy Off and bleach to clean up wheels like that. Let em leach in the sun a bit........then apply color if needed.

M.

 

Looks good to me, you say there is a wheel in there?
Doc.

 

Maybe this is a sign? Maybe you're supposed to file off all of that casting flash and polish the spokes? I always polish mine, then go back over them with Scotchbrite for a machined look. I just prefer 'em with the flash off and edges radiused, etc...

 

the color in question is "argent silver"- it was a very common g.m. accent color used on their wheels throughout the 60's. it is avalible from ea$twood, but duplicolor makes a wheel specific paint that matches in color, but isn't the semi flat sheen You will want.

 

Thanks! I am going to check into it.

 

Why doesn't the Argent Silver look like there is any gold in it. It looks like straight silver to me. Is the slight gold tint that I am looking for come with aging?

 

You could always custom mix a color and airbrush it on, then clearcoat for protection.

 

Any chance you could knock out a few words on how you got the rims to what's shown in the photo's?


I'm still screwing around with some 4 1/2 x 15" slot mags and they don't look near as nice as yours.

 

Argent isn't going to do it they will just look silver. What you are after is that ever so slight tinge of gold in there. I have done everything from polishing completely, to painting. My suggestion at this time would be to bead blast them and they will at least have there natural look, but probably minus that little hint of gold. I don't know what that tint is in them and have never been able to duplicate it.

 

Sure, I first had all the Chips and dings TIG welded by a friend. He then filed them into shape and they were looking pretty good from there but still very rough as far a polishing goes. When I got them back I went to Auto Zone and picked up different levels of Wet/Dry sand paper. 600, 800, 1000, 1500 and 2000. What you see in the pics is only up to 1500. I did not do the 2000 yet because I was waiting till I figured out the spoke cleaning situation.

When I started with the 600 as well as the 800 I had the wheel on the work bench and I made long even strokes trying to keep and even pressure on the sand paper.I would work the major part of the lip first then move to the outer most part of the rim as a separate part.

THROUGHOUT SANDING IN ALL GRITS I ALWAYS KEPT THE WHEEL DOWSED WITH WD-40. After polishing I would clean the wheel with choke cleaner and see if my strokes were even. I would then start again with the same grit sanding it a couple times before I moved up on sand paper as far as grit goes.

When I got to end of using 800 grit I transfered the wheel to a Craftsman roll around stool that I have. I used that because it spins and allows me to keep my hand stead with out going against grains and keeping the sanding marks parallel.

Once I got to 1000 and 1500 I began to really concentrate on the what my hand was doing, making sure that I was not sanding where I was not suppose to and keeping my hand flat. I also tried to feather my hand off every time I stopped sanding so that there were not start and stop marks all over. WD-40 was used as I said constantly never letting the wheel get dry and keeping the aluminum cool I think. I also made sure that I did not contaminate the pieces of sand paper with dirt or debris and used three different rags. One for WD-40 cleanup, One for Choke Cleaner, and one for final cleaning.

After that I noticed a huge difference from what I started with but still felt there was much to do. Then I realized that there was a haze left on the rim where they would really come to life once I brought out the polish and buff ball.

I hope that helps and I am by no means a pro. This is my fist attempt polishing anything and bringing back wheels from the dead so I could be completely wrong. I did screw up the spokes but I think as long as I get the color back to where I want they are going to look good.

 

Shit, I was afraid of that. I might have to see if I can mix a blend of Champaign and have them shot at my friends. I'll see what I can do otherwise the Cast blast will have to do the trick.

 

http://www.realrodderswheels.com/NEW PRODUCTS.htm

I suppose this is the finish you are looking for .."dow 7"

 

How many 5 spokes have you had since I've known you John?
Did you find anymore on Sunday? I saw a few, but mostly 14"

 

Many thanks for the info.

I'm sure you're aware that paint doesn't like WD-40.



It won't have a gold tinge to it, but Brownell's -firearms supply outfit - has epoxy spray paints put up in the common 'gun' colors in a spray bomb.
About $10. for a medium sized can.
Good outfit to deal with.
Helpful, dependable.

They make a nice dark gray as well as a fair match for stainless steel.
Look in the Ruger colors section.


I had to buy some of it last summer when I screwed up the stainless colored powder coating on the aluminum receiver of a 10-22 when I used brake cleaner to clean the interior of a brand new stainless 10-22....

 

A true argent silver does have a tint to it. Greenish-gold looking stuff. If you really look close at a correctly painted set of rally's you will see a greenish-gold tint. Buy a good can of it or have your local paint store mix up a rattle can of it. Its not true silver. Most paint shops have the equipment to mix it and put it in a spray bomb can for you. I think thats probably close to the color you are looking for as long as its not some cheapo off the shelf stuff, they call it argent but its just silver. Duplicolor is good also.

wow, I need more coffee, I was rambling..

Scot

 

oh, one more thing, if you really want a non-silver greenish gold stuff, get a can of the correct color for pontiac rally-II wheels. Probably have to order it from like the paddock or year one, but it has a serious tint to it. You can always spot the anal guys at car shows cause they have greenish-gold/metallic black rally's rather than silver/black.....LOL

 

It also doesn't like carb and choke cleaner, as that stuff leaves a slight residue as well. Use a cleaner that is designed to remove all oil, grease and wax from the part prior to painting it. I ususally use brake cleaner at final prep, but there are other less aggressive cleaners as well.

And when I say clean the wheel, I do mean every square millimeter of the wheel. Any contamination will ruin the paint.

 

I have used that greenish tint argent for rally wheels and that is not the correct color for Ansen 5 spokes. They are (were) definitley more gold than green. Hace never been able to duplicate it. I did have a set in the late 70's that i bought that were actually a very dark gold in the centers, looked cool, not sure of the brand.

 

Yeah I figured as much but did not really know that WD-40 was harmful to paint. I will clean them thoroughly once I get the color selected. I guess it's good that you told me now because I should have the polishing completely done before painting pretty much. I will get started on the 2000 grit tonight then leave the polish and buff ball till they are mounted and balanced.

Mark Moriority had a great idea on how to paint the wheels. He said perhaps a really watered down candy gold with a satin clear would give me the results that I want. Seems like a great deal of work but it may be the ticket.

 

ditto

 

You could go to an automotive paint store and have them "shoot" the color on your wheel. Then they can mix some paint to match it.
Larry T

 

If you go that route, have the paint store mix you an aerosol can of what you want...cheaper that way and you can apply it yourself. If you don't get the look your after you're only out a few bucks. The last time my bro-in-law had some done it only cost something like $10 a can (as best I can remember)

 

400 Tries and you still haven't got the color right? Man I have my work cut out for me.