Hot Rods Oh no not another brake questio

... hmmm ...

GOOD VALID POINT!

 

You're correct. With the CHI-COM junk being sold today, you have no idea what you are getting.

This will also dictate what period master cylinder is used on a swap. Some may have, most CHI-COM will not.

 

The sleeved cylinder did get an internal residual valve.
I have removed the other RPVs . I now have a good pedal with no drag on the front calipers. I did not have a problem with the rear drums just the front calipers.Thanks for all the replies on here.

 

Cool. I couldn't find a list to ID all the parts and I've never put much thought into the valve being inside the guts of the master like that. I put a dual master on my Model A and you could push in the outlet ports and feel if the residual valves were there or not.

Agreed. But I figured it the front didn't need one, neither did the rear, but I see I'm incorrect. Guess I've just always been lucky.

You learn something new every day! Now, about when did they start upgrading the wheel cylinders to having the expansion cups? I'm assuming the Early Ford juice brake cylinders don't have these...

 

Well, actually... they were advertising them in the fifties - FORD began using them around 1972. I am a FORD FREAK so am not as keen/interested on the rest of the industry. That one (internal RPV in single piston MC) went completely over my head.

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Now that all of this has come to a sudden thud as the OP describing having plumbed FRT DISC and REAR DRUM with an early style single piston MC and will the MC reservoir hold enough fluid to initiate the front calipers properly and will he need to top off the MC every week to keep up with pad wear?

Like you say, learn something new everyday.

 

It was at this point I should have realized the single piston MC had an internal #10 RPV (even rebuilt as the kit will come with it).

Do me a favor, never get old ...

 

The difference between the clutch side of that master cylinder and the brake side is that 2178 Check valve.
That check valve comes in the brake side of the rebuild kit. It works the same as a light residual valve but I have never seen anything on what the pressure rating is. If you pull the seats for the brake line on a dual master cylinder for drum brakes behind that brass seat is a check valve and spring. That again acts a residual valve.

Still a firewall mounted master cylinder that is above the rest of the brake system shouldn't need additional residual valves. If you have an issue where your brakes go mushy after sitting for a few days then you figure out what you need for residual valves but that will probably be rear brakes only.