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Projects Oh no not another Willys Gasser build, this time a Willys shop truck

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by langy, Dec 8, 2013.

  1. theman440
    Joined: Jun 28, 2012
    Posts: 378

    theman440
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    You make it look so easy dude!
     
  2. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    Don't sweat it Jimmy I miss stuff all the time, just the way the Hamb seems to be these days.
     
  3. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus


    I guess everythings easy once you know how to do it :D
     
  4. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    Had to knock off a bit earlier today as we have friends coming [​IMG] [​IMG] but I did get the windows all going up & down nice & smoothly [​IMG]
    Also I knew space was tight for the bearjaw locks so had to form a slight bulge in the door jam to accommodate them, it will also make life easy for prospective customers as its a standard lock I keep in stock.

    Hers a few pics and a short video



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    Video



    Heres the whisker trim and where it will fit



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    Here the lock position and the bulge I formed, all done with a bit of shaped wood and masking tape



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    Jimmy Tee likes this.
  5. Very nice work on the doors. Your work is second to none sir. And well thought out !:D
     
  6. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    I got the lock in last night, space was pretty tight. I also got the handle actuator sorted also



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    There is a plate that ties the lock into the frame which the nuts are welded to, forgot take a pic.



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    Jimmy Tee likes this.
  7. Chucky
    Joined: Mar 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,828

    Chucky
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Looking great as always Steve. Definitely "Top of the Pops". :D
     
  8. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    More progress, nearly there. I splashed some black epoxy on the inner last night to tidy it up and just fitted it up after tea, next job is to fit the striker on the door jamb and mount the outer door skin & outer handle.
    Someone mentioned the raised door lock, they suggested it might catch the door jamb when opened [​IMG] It won't because its only raised 5/16" and the jamb has 1/2" of clearance [​IMG]

    Hopefully tomorrow night the tinted acrylic will be here so I can fit the proper window [​IMG]



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  9. Król
    Joined: Jun 8, 2014
    Posts: 213

    Król
    Member

    Fantastic work and talent! Keep the photos coming.
     
  10. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    I can now get on with the next job fitting the outer handles as the Willys repro handles I ordered turned up today, They are specially made for glass bodys as the original Willys hadle fits with a clip arrangement that doesn't work on glass bodys. Also my tinted acrylic showed up so need to cut that to shape also.



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  11. GearheadsQCE
    Joined: Mar 23, 2011
    Posts: 3,604

    GearheadsQCE
    Alliance Vendor

    Gee Steve, I have never seen anything as crude as that door latch glass work ,even in progress, in your shop. I'm sure you will have a perfectly formed stainless cover over a 2000 grit polished surface by the time you are done. I just didn't think you ever had grinder marks on anything. :)
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  12. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    Still needs gel coating yet mate, once done it will look wonderful :cool:
     
  13. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    Thanks bud
     
  14. REBEL43
    Joined: Feb 17, 2007
    Posts: 722

    REBEL43
    Member
    from TENNESSEE

    Really looking good
     
  15. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    Last night saw the handles fitted, they operate stainless steel bicycle cables.

    First thing to sort was the handle pad on the doors, the doors have the 1940 round pad but the handles are only available 41 shape so I had to build up the pad with GRP chopped paste.



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    Next I prepped the inside for the strengthening plate I had planned, I personally wouldn't fit the handle without a plate behind. The plate is 16swg aluminium, I spun up a piece to hold the outer cable and a bit more 1/8" plate for a riser, I did it aluminium for no other reason other than I don't weld much aluminium and fancied a change.



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    Next I needed a actuating lever to fit the 5/16" square bar on the handle, this was made in a bit of 3/8" plate and is secured to the square by a grubscrew.



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    Here its all assembled and glassed into place. I bonded in a couple of bits of aluminium tube for the cable to run through so it don't rub against the window.



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  16. Inland empire hot rods
    Joined: Aug 5, 2010
    Posts: 1,037

    Inland empire hot rods
    Member
    from so cal

    Steve, your work is so inspiring! Thank you for documenting it so well
     
  17. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,692

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Nice work as always Steve. Usually when I look at car I don't give all of the hardware inside of the doors a thought. Seeing all of the labor you have put into these doors will change that.
     
  18. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    Your too kind Mark, but i'll take it :D
     
  19. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    Yes mate its been a bit involved but that glass cars for ya, I like the various workings to work good, I enjoy working it out and making it work, its a challenge !!!
     
  20. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    Its been a lovely day for working outside, sun shining and warm, working in T shirt & shorts, wonder how much longer it will last ??? Anyway I got the door inner back on its hinges and set about getting the door skin lined up, fit was pretty good so with one hand holding the skin in place I drilled a few small holes for screws to temporally hold it in place until its time to bond them together, looks pretty good, little bit of making good but thats no problem, will gap it up once bonded.
    I also got some rear tyres 31x 10.5 x 15 so popped my rear wheels on.



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  21. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    Thought I would have a break from GRP for a few days so looked at the rear of the chassis, It dips downward slightly which wasn't making fitting my fuel tank easy, also as I want a towbar it wasnt that strong so I decided to chop it off and replace with some nice sturdy 3" x 1.5" x 1/8" box section.
    While I was making the U section on the bench I incorporated the towbar, Its a receiver type so it can be removed.

    Sue was out shopping so had to tig weld it myself, it ain't that hard really [​IMG]



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    Once the box was welded a 2" hole was bored in the centre to accept a piece of 2" x 1/4" wall CDS tube, this tube comes up at 1.5" ID so before welding in place it was bored out slightly to 1.630 to accept 1.625" CDS roll cage tube, this will be the removable section and will be swan neck shape to get the ball height down a bit. A stainless steel bolt gave up its life to become a securing pin after a short time in the lathe [​IMG]



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    I added some braces and gave it a quick squirt of primer. Hopefully weld it in tomorrow night.



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  22. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    Got the new rear chassis section in, first time i've used my mig for over a year !!!

    This was the offending part, out with my fave tool Mr 9" grinder [​IMG], it never stood a chance [​IMG]



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    Next I got my gas tank out and measured up for it, I got lucky with this tank as my mate Gary Layton originally ordered it but the dimensions were wrong for his project so Summit resent the correct tank, they didn't want it back as shipping was too dear so they said keep it [​IMG], Oh look it seems to be the perfect fit in the Willys truck [​IMG]



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    I welded in some struts to make the towbar even stronger and these also will mount the tank.



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  23. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    Not much last night as it suddenly got freezing but I did get to make a mount for my Carter fuel pump and pre filter, I mounted them on a plate as the plate is in turn mounted on 4 x Mini exhaust rubbers, yes the pump does have rubber mounts but a bit more don't hurt.



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  24. Inland empire hot rods
    Joined: Aug 5, 2010
    Posts: 1,037

    Inland empire hot rods
    Member
    from so cal

  25. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

  26. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    Wanted to get the tank mounted up and needed some 30mm aluminium angle, nothing on my shelf so popped over to my mate Garys who had some spare, whilst there the angle was welded to the tank, my tig will do aluminium but the Miller Dynasty Gary has is the dogs doo dahs for welding aluminium.



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    Today I got it mounted, 3 x 5/16" bolts each side is just right



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    Next job was a bit of one step forward and two back as I had already fixed the bed floor in place but I was never happy with how high it was, I wanted it lower, So I decided to reduce the height of the kickup, out with Mr Angle grinder and a few minutes later a piece of 1/4" plate was welded in, The original frame here is 2 pieces of 1/8" where the 2 C's meet.



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    I then made up a 2" x 1" x 18swg box ring frame which is welded to returns on the bedsides.



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    Much better now and it gives me more clearance on the tank.



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    Last edited: Dec 6, 2014
  27. Jimbo17
    Joined: Aug 19, 2008
    Posts: 3,959

    Jimbo17
    Member

    The attention to detail is simply over the top and the amount of engineering it must have taken is mind boggling for sure.
    Watching a master craftsman at work never get's old for me.
    Thanks for sharing the tips and tricks of how to do it right!!!

    Jimbo
     
  28. motoandy
    Joined: Sep 19, 2007
    Posts: 3,349

    motoandy
    Member
    from MB, SC

    Love following this build. As always nice work.
     
  29. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus


    Thanks Jimbo, appreciate the input
     
  30. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    I reckon all gassers should have a weight bar, so lets make one of them !!! A piece of 3" stainless tube was cut at 56" long and a 2.5" hole bored in the centre, next a piece of 2.5" tube was welded in and the edges smoothed. This is for the towbar to fit through.



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    Next we needed some brackets to mount it, wanted 5/16" or 3/8" stainless but the scrap bin was bare [​IMG] but I did find some 3/8" aluminium plate [​IMG]
    I bored a 3" hole in it and shaped it up/



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    Got it mounted and centered up, just need to make some end caps for it and then can polish it.
    Oh tube is held in the brackets by some hidden grub screws.
    The piece of tube sticking out is simulating the removable tow bar, thats a job for the bender later.



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